What would be the best chain for "noodling"

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SilverKing

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Im cutting locust fence post and was wondering what the best chain would be for "noodling".I know they make rip chain,but im not actually ripping like you would with a mill.What I am doing is just running the saw down the log to make a straight line so when I drive the wedges in it will split straight.The saw is a Stihl 051 with 404 sprocket and hard nose bar,so power isnt really an issue.I normally file at a 25 degree angle,does anyone know a better angle to file for this type of cutting.Also I have other saws to use for cutting down and cross cutting,so the 051 would just have 1 job to do.Thanks for any help.
 
I don't think chain type impacts noodling all that much. Clutch cover clogging seems to be more of an issue and some saws noodle better than others for that reason. (modified clutch covers help as well)

The kind of cut you're doing isn't what I would consider noodling because your bar really isn't going to be parallel to the wood because of the length of your post in relationship to the bar (unless you have a really really long bar)

I will say that .404 chain is going to take out a lot more wood than you need to for your purposes so if you can come up with a sprocket nosed 3/8 bar that would be better.
 
I use a Stihl S-08s, .404 full chisel chain to noodle. I agree being able to clear the noodles from the clutch housing is the biggest concern, The 08 does a fairly good job of it.
 
Been doing the same thing on a bunch of 40" Cherry, Oak, and Ash rounds and have been going back and forth between, plain old 3/8 Carlton Chisel and Semi chisel.
The Dadgum dirt and rocks in the hollows is 90% of the issue, and without the grit, I am noticing little difference between the two, and maybe a slight edge for the SC.

For splitting rails, I'd just grab a little 50cc saw with .325 on it for the narrower kerf.
On the .325 NOTHING tolerates the grit in Hedge bark like Stihl RM/RMC.

Splitting rails is ambitious. Good on ya for taking on the job.:)
 
I usually use my 2171 for noodling with 3/8 full comp chain. How well it works depends a lot on the angle your cutting and that you leave a few inches between the wood and the power head, so the noodles fall away rather than get drawn into the clutch. Cutting with more angle, as opposed to parallel with the grain will shorten up the noodles also and help with the clogging problem. I cut my wood at about 18". If you cut yours much longer, it's possible you may benefit for skip chain, but I'm not sure.
 
Full skip square ground:

130029735.lC0a1WQ8.jpg
 
As Festus stated, if you cut at more of an angle you do get smaller noodles, but it is slower going to me. I love to see the long noodles shooting out of the cut.

Some saws can handle the noodles without holding the power head away from the wood while others, as Festus pointed out have trouble clearing the chain cover & benefit from holding the power head way from the wood if your bar is long enough.

I noodle large rounds to make them more manageable to handle. Everything else goes across the splitter. With elm I found if I noodle the large rounds into 5-6" wide strips then when I run them through the splitter it really cuts down on the strings making them nicer to handle.
 
The best thing for locust posts that I've found is a sledge hammer and wedges.With locust I spent more time sharpening than I did splitting.Of course they don't turn out as purdy as sawed posts.
 
I don't think chain type impacts noodling all that much. Clutch cover clogging seems to be more of an issue and some saws noodle better than others for that reason. (modified clutch covers help as well)

The kind of cut you're doing isn't what I would consider noodling because your bar really isn't going to be parallel to the wood because of the length of your post in relationship to the bar (unless you have a really really long bar)

I will say that .404 chain is going to take out a lot more wood than you need to for your purposes so if you can come up with a sprocket nosed 3/8 bar that would be better.
Your exactly righ.The post are 7 foot long,so im actually ony noodling 20 inches on each end,the length of the bar.290 Stihl clogs real bad,as does a 271.353 Husky does a real good job cleaning out.The 051 has so much power it dont seem to matter if it clogs or not.But usually it wont clog until it hits a wet rotten spot in the log.Anyhow thanks for all the replies.It is a tuff job splitting these trees but I actually enjoy it.Ill try to get some pics up tomorrow of the finished products
 
Ok, I didn't understand what you were talking about I guess. Now I do. So you ARE noodling. I thought you were cutting a groove down the entire length of the log. If this is something you will be doing a lot of, It would probably be worth to get a clutch cover you can "cut" so that it clears noodles better. Some of my saws spit out noodles like crazy and others will plug up in 2 seconds.

Would a woodsplitter work to split these things (crosswise, not longwise)
 
Between the chain I have used for noodling, Oregon LP/LPX have performed best - but I believe the main point is to use chisel, and not semi chisel. Keep the top plate angel at 25 to 30 degrees, as for cross cutting.

Ripping chain is not suitable for noodling.

I once thought an inboard clutch was an asset for noodling, but later found out that isn't true at all.
 
I use square skip for noodling because it cuts faster and clears better. The difference between round and square ground chisel becomes even more apparent when noodling.

Totally worth it.
 
That is freaking wild, but most impressive...especially bare-foot!! YIKES!:eek:

Bare foot, one handing an 070. And the fella looks like he's goes about what, 125lbs? Now riddle me this; do they dry that green jungle lumber for two years, or use it immediately as it seems? Sorry to go off topic, but dang.
 
Bare foot, one handing an 070. And the fella looks like he's goes about what, 125lbs? Now riddle me this; do they dry that green jungle lumber for two years, or use it immediately as it seems? Sorry to go off topic, but dang.
If an American goes on YouTube and runs a saw with out a suit of armor and a bullet proof vest,everybody is like,oh my God,wheres your personal protection.This guy does it barefoot,and everybody is like,oh how talented
 
If an American goes on YouTube and runs a saw with out a suit of armor and a bullet proof vest,everybody is like,oh my God,wheres your personal protection.This guy does it barefoot,and everybody is like,oh how talented

We don't have to support him and his family for the rest of their lives if he lops a foot or two off the bottom.

Hu
 

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