What would you rather run?

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Haywire Haywood

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In 20" and under hardwood, for a day of firewood gathering. A woods ported ms361 with an 18 inch bar and 7 pin 3/8 sprocket, or something like a 372 or 7300 with the same bar and an 8 pin sprocket (assuming that the 372/7300 has the grunt to run it, that's the next question) Smaller fast saw vs larger saw with bigger sprocket.
question 3.. what are the pros and cons of running a bigger sprocket, any bar lube/bar heat problems?

Ian
 
That's a tough one. I'd probably go with the 361, unless most of the wood was going to be 16"-20" and/or a lot was going to be rock-hard dead stuff.

I've never seen any problems running 8-pin on my 7900, in terms of heat or oiling. That said, I think I prefer the way it cuts with the 7-pin, since I don't have to finesse it as much to keep it in its powerband. Maybe I'd feel different on a 16" bar, but 20" and 28" seem happiest in my hands with a 7-pin.
 
computeruser said:
That's a tough one. I'd probably go with the 361, unless most of the wood was going to be 16"-20" and/or a lot was going to be rock-hard dead stuff. ......

So would I, for full day use in the woods - the weight difference is quite notisable.

In the yard, just bucking, may be another story....:givebeer:
 
computeruser said:
That's a tough one. I'd probably go with the 361, unless most of the wood was going to be 16"-20" and/or a lot was going to be rock-hard dead stuff.

I've never seen any problems running 8-pin on my 7900, in terms of heat or oiling. That said, I think I prefer the way it cuts with the 7-pin, since I don't have to finesse it as much to keep it in its powerband. Maybe I'd feel different on a 16" bar, but 20" and 28" seem happiest in my hands with a 7-pin.

Very good post. I agree. I run 7 pin on all of my stuff. That chain is moving fast enough as it is. I'd rather have the Q when I need it, which is often, and allow me to work the saw's power band and not be limited by the higher chain speed/lower Q.

And I didn't know you could put an 18" on a 361? They make bars that short? :laugh: :laugh:
 
60cc vs 72cc

i would use jonny 2159 (same as 361)for small stuff and limbing, jonny 2171(brother to 372) for the 20" hardwood, both 20" bars, i cut mostly beech and sugar maple which are very hard, the 60cc can be a little light at times powerwise, but is a good saw for cutting up the tops.
 
computeruser said:
since I don't have to finesse it as much to keep it in its powerband.

I think that answered question 2 for me.. if you are having to finesse a 7900 with an 8 pin, I don't think a 7300 wants one.

Just getting a feel for my options, I'm considering trading my 361 in for a bigger powerhead, but the weight factor and usability are the killers on the deal. A bigger powerhead would run away from the 361 in big wood naturally, but I'm kinda doubting that I'd see a big difference in the stuff I cut except for tired arms at the end of the day. Hence the sprocket question.

thanks,
Ian
 
Haywire Haywood said:
Just getting a feel for my options, I'm considering trading my 361 in for a bigger powerhead, but the weight factor and usability are the killers on the deal. A bigger powerhead would run away from the 361 in big wood naturally, but I'm kinda doubting that I'd see a big difference in the stuff I cut except for tired arms at the end of the day. Hence the sprocket question.

I see your 361 is ported. Would you be getting your new saw ported as well? I ask because the difference between a built 361 and a 70cc isn't going to be as HUGE as it would be between a stock 361 and the same 70cc saw. I know that you know that, but I don't know if you'd be blown away by the difference.
 
That's another good point to consider. I'd probably do a muffler mod but leave the porting alone (famous last words).

Ian
 
Haywire Haywood said:
I think that answered question 2 for me.. if you are having to finesse a 7900 with an 8 pin, I don't think a 7300 wants one.

Just getting a feel for my options, I'm considering trading my 361 in for a bigger powerhead, but the weight factor and usability are the killers on the deal. A bigger powerhead would run away from the 361 in big wood naturally, but I'm kinda doubting that I'd see a big difference in the stuff I cut except for tired arms at the end of the day. Hence the sprocket question.

thanks,
Ian

Keep the 361. If you want something bigger you need an 066, that's the next logical jump from a modded 361.

I have only used the 7900 with an 8-pin a few times, an in each instance it was with a 20" bar in softer species of green hardwood. I could still lean on it, but not as hard. I tried some impromptu racing in some 10" ailanthus and found that I had to baby it back into the wood on my upward pass. With the 7-pin I could hit the wood harder and adjust my upward pressure AFTER I was in the wood, and even then the saw didn't lose the kind of RPMs that it did with the 8-pin. With the 8-pin I had to think through how much pressure to apply BEFORE I hit the wood.

Could the 8-pin be faster in real life cutting with the 7900? Perhaps. But like Jeff said, torque is nice and I'm not in any great hurry anyway. So for the 7900 on down, 7-pin is the way to go in my book. For bigger saws, go ahead and run the 8-pin on the shorter bars. I'm very happy with an 8-pin on my 066 (which runs 20" and 28") and my 075 and 076 up to 41", and they could probably get away with 9pin on the shorter bars.
 
I cut for a long time with nothing but my 350 and it did great. I wanted a larger saw for felling and bucking the larger stuff. Well, with the purchase of the 046 I find myself running it more and more. I never planned it this way, I didn't want to carry the wieght all day. What I am finding out is I cut twice the wood in half the time! I used to keep two guys busy with the 350 alright, now I keep 3 guys humping with the 046 and we go home a lot sooner!! May have to play with running 3/8's full skip on the 346 to see if it gains some speed, otherwise not worth starting it up most days:hmm3grin2orange:
Andy
 
I have run my 371, 066 and 395 both with 7 and 8 tooth sprockets quite a bit. I find these days I stick with the 7 tooth and I can get just as much done in a day. And when I need to use a long bar I don't have to swap sprockets

Plus 8 tooth has a slight tendency to jump ship a little easier, although I personally never had that problem.


I did run my 066 with a 16 inch bar and an 8 pin once and it was like a light saber. Usually I am running a 28 or longer on my 066 and the 7 tooth is the ticket.
 
woodfarmer said:
i would use jonny 2159 (same as 361)for small stuff and limbing, ......

A stock 2159 is pretty far from the same saw as a stock 361.

If they both are ported by a competent builder, they are closer......:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
 
I was just running my 066 with an 8 pin and ~18 inch bar, cutting some cookies off some red hickory. I found that I could bog it down if I was applying too much pressure. I can't bog this saw down with the 7 pin.

I think if I had to carry a saw through the woods felling each day, I'd go for a ported 361 (or 440) with a 24" bar and bring four or five loops of square ground chisel chain with me. If I was bucking dirty wood on the landing, I'd switch to round ground chisel chain.
 
My 371, basically stock with a 28" bar/skip chain works great as a firewood saw. I cut down a big pine today that I climbed and stripped first. It was about 30" dbh, I fell it and started bucking into 16'' rounds with my 395, nice to have got that saw. Myself, I like to stand up as much as possible, can't see bending down all the time with a short bar, sounds uncomfortable. Big saw, big bar, stand up and be done fast, in style. Oh yeah 7 pin on both, 36" bar on the 395, skip of course.
 
Thanks for all the input. I think I'll stick with the 361, didn't realize that it would take so much saw to run an 8 pin well.

Ian
 
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