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A brand new engine will sometimes have a bit lower compression than one that has been run awhile. Run it for a while before you conclude that it's low compression.
I tried it on two other saws, for some reason the gauge is hanging up at 120 on all of them.

Now for everyone's entertainment. The first video I linked was the saws first run, this video was the first attempt at getting the saw to run. I actually found out that the choke rod had come out so the choke was on and that is why it didn't start after the first pop (I probably didn't get it set all the way) once that was fixed the saw started on the second pull after fixing this as well. :D
 
A brand new engine will sometimes have a bit lower compression than one that has been run awhile. Run it for a while before you conclude that it's low compression.

Fact. Generally I see around 10-15psi increase after a short amount of run time when using a new ring.
 
I tried it on two other saws, for some reason the gauge is hanging up at 120 on all of them.

Now for everyone's entertainment. The first video I linked was the saws first run, this video was the first attempt at getting the saw to run. I actually found out that the choke rod had come out so the choke was on and that is why it didn't start after the first pop (I probably didn't get it set all the way) once that was fixed the saw started on the second pull after fixing this as well. :D


Are you using a tester with the valve at the end or up in the gauge it’s self? If it’s not at the end of the hose you’re basically increasing the saws combustion chamber.
 
I tried it on two other saws, for some reason the gauge is hanging up at 120 on all of them.

Now for everyone's entertainment. The first video I linked was the saws first run, this video was the first attempt at getting the saw to run. I actually found out that the choke rod had come out so the choke was on and that is why it didn't start after the first pop (I probably didn't get it set all the way) once that was fixed the saw started on the second pull after fixing this as well. :D

In a case like that I might try another gauge.
 
Are you using a tester with the valve at the end or up in the gauge it’s self? If it’s not at the end of the hose you’re basically increasing the saws combustion chamber.
It's at the end of the hose.
 
got a link or brand? Sounds interesting. What color do you like?

Ah, you gotta find something local to you. The one I like to use is traditional oil based floor paint (no color) with a silky / semi matte finish. Makes the wood get a slightly warmer color, 3 layers makes a sustainable surface - and makes the wood look beautiful.
I don't like a shiny gloss finish because it makes all the unevenness of the wood enhanced, matte makes it look smooth even though it aint. Proper quality oil based floor paint is quite resilient to strong substances such as whiskey or gasoline.
2 component epoxy paint is a couple of steps up regarding strength but it doesn't look as pretty and it might be more expensive, it doesn't dissolve by nothing and makes a much harder surface. The one I have on my basement floor is grey gloss.
 
Despite what I told @CJ Brown over on the Fill me in on CAD... thread about new saws, I'm contemplating this as my first CAD purchase; a 1993 288XP I found at my pawn shop today. They want $200 for it, and let me take it out on approval, but it has some problems:
  1. Fuel line burned out (easy)
  2. Looks like a mini fire may have caught in the carb bay; the air filter had two holes burned in the bottom (easy)
  3. Pretty good score mark on the exhaust side of the piston (might run like this; easy but expensive)
  4. Missing tensioner assembly (easy)
  5. Missing muffler bracket screw (easy)
  6. Missing brake band (easy)
  7. Missing throttle lock spring (easy)
About $70 worth of replacement stuff, not counting the piston. The chain has jumped off several times as the case is mangled in a couple of spots. All the screw holes are good and the plastics are in pretty good shape. Notice no provision for DC valve, though there is a blank. I tried to check compression but I have a setup with the "valve at the gauge" and I couldn't warm it up. Probably meaningless, but I got 55psi dead cold; my first time checking 2-stroke compression. For now, I put it back on the shelf and said I would think about it. It has everything else; double dogs with spring, good muffler and deflector, and feels good; I think it will clean up nice. Any advice on this one? I just want to clean it and get it running for now.
IMG_20200128_141335.jpg IMG_20200128_141346.jpg IMG_20200128_141735.jpg IMG_20200128_142657.jpg
 
that’s strange then
Just put my compression tester on my Homelite Super XL Auto (piston and cylinder look new) and this saw is a bear to pull over with a ton of compression. Same reading as on my 372xp @122. Put it on my PM 700, again a ton of compression, same reading 122. I sent OTC a email so hopefully I can get just the gauge and replace this one. It worked fine for maybe 6 or so uses then started doing "all engines have 122lbs of compression" now if it's an engine that I know has low compression then it will read it. If I remember right my PM555 was around 105 but I know it's a bad engine.
 
@Yotaismygame I took the plunge. $160 included 24" bar that's straight but needs some dressing and a chain that needs sharpening. I'll be able to practice all the necessary skills. In the pull apart, clean and inspect phase right now.
View attachment 793116
Good deal on that 288xp! I saw your first post where you had just looked at it and I was wondering why you didn't bring it straight home lol. Hopefully the cylinder cleans up and you can throw a meteor piston in it and have a good runner.
 
wanna sell it? :)

Applaud your bold ask. Not yet, wanna play with it first, get it cleaned up and running if I can. I'll give you first shot at it if I do.

Good deal on that 288xp! I saw your first post where you had just looked at it and I was wondering why you didn't bring it straight home lol. Hopefully the cylinder cleans up and you can throw a meteor piston in it and have a good runner.

Yeah, I broke it down then took it back to pawn shop with a cost list to get it started. Went back today and got it for their ask minus my list.
 
Got this torn down the other night. The auto-oiler isn't working at the moment, but everything else is great. Saw runs fantastic and seems to have unreal compression. I've had it about a year now, but just getting around to it now.

20200129_183620.jpg

Has a lot of carbon in the combustion chamber, needs a quick cleaning, and i'll swap the crank seals while I'm at it. Maybe, just maybe repaint the starter cover (saw has seriously burned paint on the starter cover).

I really can't say enough about how high quality everything on this saw seems to be. The castings and the fit and finish are spectacular.
 
Got the 288 broken down all the way. I guess it needs a new piston- Yes or No? On the exhaust side (second pic), I can catch those two scratches with a fingernail; can't feel the intake scratch. I think I did compression test right and I could only manage 55psi. Little bit of carbon on top but the ring looks okay. I'm hoping the cylinder is a keeper; it's a Mahle 54ZK3 with 0/1 A 3/3 on the top. I assume that means an "A" piston? Bearings are perfect, needs a few small parts, and I'll rebuild the carb.
Pintake.jpg Pexhaust.jpg Pring.jpg Cintake.jpg Cexhaust.jpg
 

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