Whats the best way to sharpen a chain?

[MCW]

Both.
Lots of variables though with both grinding and filing. A few points below...

Just how good are you at filing or do you just think you know what you're doing?

Do you actually know what settings to use on your grinder for the type of chain you are sharpening or even how to use your grinder properly? I use 65° on my Speed Sharp which replicates a file angle very closely. When resharpening with a file very little reprofiling of the cutter is needed with a 7/32° file when head is set at 65°.

What grinder wheels are you using? They make a massive difference, as does the quality of the grinder itself.

The nice, sharp edge on a round filed chain is hard to beat with a grinder but I believe can be basically equalled for all practical purposes by somebody who knows what they're doing with a well setup grinder.

In tough, abrasive conditions a ground chain will outlast a filed chain. In clean conditions on green wood a filed chain is hard to beat for cutting speed but nothing in it really. I have started filing in the field for convenience. I got sick of coming home after 8 hours tree felling and having to grind half a dozen blunt chains.

Many people here mention that "razor" sharp edge on a filed chain. This lasts all of 0.8 of a second when cutting which instantly brings it back into line with a ground chain's sharpness.

Some angles on filed chain can't be replicated with a grinder and vice versa.

Blah blah blah

 

[arborjockey]

My vote went to other

What is "other" ?????

Is it the chainsaw sharpening fairy showing up during the night waving her magic wand over the saw and it's sharp again ??

I use a rock or a nail sometimes a fence post. Whatevers left in the tree im cutting down. Tends not to be a very advantageous

 

[BobL]

In tough, abrasive conditions a ground chain will outlast a filed chain.

I can see how this works.

After the 0.8s when a well filed edge has lost its razor, what ultimately permits cutters to hold an edge is their profile (eg hook) and to a lesser extent the cutting angle. It shouldn't naught whether a file or grinder is used. If the profile is OK it will hold is edge no matter how that is achieved.

 

[MCW]

I can see how this works.

After the 0.8s when a well filed edge has lost its razor, what ultimately permits cutters to hold an edge is their profile (eg hook) and to a lesser extent the cutting angle. It shouldn't naught whether a file or grinder is used. If the profile is OK it will hold is edge no matter how that is achieved.

This of course depends Bob on how far you want to grind into the gullet. You can end up with a chisel type edge with a grinder which is really hard (but not impossible) to achive with a round file.

 

[madhatte]

The 10 degree back angle you can get with a tilt bed on a grinder is easy to replicate by filing: just use the Husky file guide! That way you get a rough approximation of a working corner.

 

[DSS]

Souldn't you be pleasantly plucking pheasants???

or doing something pleasant to a plucked up pheasant......

 

[TreeClimber57]

Answer.. it depends

On what?

Well.. grinding is faster.. grinding is more consistant.. and if using a high end grinder (NEVER use the cheaper grinders - uneven settings - poor quality).. and a good stone with proper dressing.. then a grinder can do as good a job as likley 90% of people with a stone. But.. it can overheat the chain as well.. so if using a grinder then get some grinding lubricant (something like KOOL-GRIND is good). A grinder is expensive, and you need a top notch one to do the job properly.

A file .. cheaper but they do wear out so you need a supply of them as well if doing much cutting. But a file takes longer (I usually do a quick touch up at each fill up).. and if you are not well practiced it may not be consistant in either angle or depth/height.

I use both, either can be done well if using proper tool, have good training and a bit of patience.

The very best.. well if used in an experienced hand, and if care is taken I would likely give the file a slight edge. But a good grind can come close.. and for most it can likely do a better job (but keep the chain cool)!

 

[Sprintcar]

I sez "Other".

What I mean by this is simple: grinding is for setting a standard. Filing is for maintaining it. Every few sharpenings a chain should be ground in order to set cutter lengths, angles, and depths to the same value. This goes double for rakers -- if you are truly filing progressively, you will be truly creating uneven raker depths as you create unequal cutter lengths.

SO: file by hand MOST of the time. Grind when a) it's been awhile and things are uneven or uncertain or b) you rock the chain and filing is too much work.

That's how I roll, anyway.

:agree2:

 

[MCW]

Answer.. it depends

On what?

Well.. grinding is faster.. grinding is more consistant.. and if using a high end grinder (NEVER use the cheaper grinders - uneven settings - poor quality).. and a good stone with proper dressing.. then a grinder can do as good a job as likley 90% of people with a stone. But.. it can overheat the chain as well.. so if using a grinder then get some grinding lubricant (something like KOOL-GRIND is good). A grinder is expensive, and you need a top notch one to do the job properly.

A file .. cheaper but they do wear out so you need a supply of them as well if doing much cutting. But a file takes longer (I usually do a quick touch up at each fill up).. and if you are not well practiced it may not be consistant in either angle or depth/height.

I use both, either can be done well if using proper tool, have good training and a bit of patience.

The very best.. well if used in an experienced hand, and if care is taken I would likely give the file a slight edge. But a good grind can come close.. and for most it can likely do a better job (but keep the chain cool)!

Well written and I agree. However if you use the ABN/CBN wheels like the Dinasaws then overheating a cutter is actually very hard to do no matter how angry you get with it

 

[stevohut]

I prefer my oregon grinder to a file. I say this only because I file like a blind man. Tried the file yesterday on a new chain with little wear. I was a good .030" out on my cutter length from side to side. I was so mad I said enough with this crap mounted her in the grinder and made it brand new again. I like grinding to, just because I have a machining backround and I'm fussy and anal about quality. I would like to be good with a file but I can't afford to pay for the practice with chain prices.

steve

 

[Arrowhead]

or doing something pleasant to a plucked up pheasant......

lol

 

[Denman123a]

Dremel

I've had good results with 5/32" grinder bits in my Dremel done on the bar. This is quick and convenient enough that I can do it fairly often, particularly when my chips start getting too fine. It takes a bit of care to get squarely into the tooth curve each time, but a bit of practice does it. I'm still on my first chains on both Poulans, and I recently touched up the (same-size) chain on my P-P500.

 

[rob066]

I use the good old file. It would be rather difficult to take a electric chain grinder out into the woods with you to sharpen your chain.

 

[arborjockey]

the grinder v.s. file debate. I say the grinders great when you have to take the teeth down extensively. Whether its from hitting something or poor filing angles. For sharpness nothing beets a file. Its like saying a hand planner puts a better finish on then sand paper. Its also tough to take a grinder the woods:monkey:

 

[MCW]

I agree about the difficulty of grinding in the woods

However a lot of people I know just grind chains and carry half a dozen with them as they're not really far from their vehicle anyway. They just swap them out when one gets blunt.

 

[formula_pilot]

I've had good results with 5/32" grinder bits in my Dremel done on the bar. .

The Dremel works great for me too. A quick kiss every tank or two and the chains stays sharp, it takes very little time. Filing takes more skill than I have to do a good job AND to do it quickly.
They make recharable models, or a small inverter at the vehicle, and it works out well in the field as well.

 

[stevohut]

I guess it depends if your cutting soft or hardwood but I can cut a good cord or so of wood and my chain still spits out 1/4" chips. I am only cutting white poplar. Spare chain is what I carry if chain gets dull then I will touch it up on the grinder when I get home. Is cutting hardwoods that much harder on chains?

steve

 

[Cedarkerf]

Razursharp II grinder. My standard set up is 32 inch square ground,this is easiest most consistent set up for my purposes. Also use 41 inch which makes akes for a lotta cutters.

 

[formula_pilot]

I guess it depends if your cutting soft or hardwood but I can cut a good cord or so of wood and my chain still spits out 1/4" chips. I am only cutting white poplar. Spare chain is what I carry if chain gets dull then I will touch it up on the grinder when I get home. Is cutting hardwoods that much harder on chains?

steve

It depends... I have found that in some really hard wood, there will be a noticable decline in performance very quickly. After one tank, the chain is still cutting, but I notice a difference - the "edge" is missing a bit. On the other hand, I have cut green oak where I buck the whole tree and never touch up the chain, and then a dead standing oak just dulled out the chain after the first tank, the stuff was just rock hard. It was no fun to cut and split, but it burned real well....