028AV Super
ArboristSite Member
Once again Dave, you are the man! Thanks,
Oooops sorry, I mean Andy. Too much multi tasking...
Once again Dave, you are the man! Thanks,
Bad bearings are rare in 028's, but they happen.
It would have to be really bad... and if it is moving it's most likely the CLUTCH side that's shot causing the flywheel side to pivot in the flywheel side bearing. Your coil might have moved - you're supposed to use blue loctite on the coil screws.
Take your saw to your stihl dealer and have them pop the flywheel - it's a 10 second job if you have it prep'ed. Using any other type of puller runs the very real risk of damaging your flywheel.
Flywheel puller is about $20 in Ebay stores. Maybe cheaper from your dealer. The seal puller is damn expensive... Like $125-140...
Andy some guy just bought a stihl puller like yours and mine on sleezebay for mid 200.00's used.....
.
"I" paid a lot more
A few years ago my good friend was looking for things for my wife to buy me for a birthday present. I was muttering about a "real seal puller" - she went to a stihl dealer and bought one - marked up beyond belief... oh well... better than some useless gift I couldn't drink.
Hmmmm,
Would it be unethical to use a gift to make money with ?
Hmmmm,
Would it be unethical to use a gift to make money with ?
I sure wouldn't split the case to push out the seals... you need a whole lot more specialized tools and time to do that...
One of the "secrets" to getting a seal out is to free it up before pulling on it - just use a small flat tip punch to tap it in SLIGHTLY on 4 corners, then pull.
Drive it up to me.. I'll do them for you.. for beer (O.K., Space will think that's unethical, but...)..
I wonder if crank seals are your problem. I would suggest maybe stepping
back and starting over with what you have done so far.
I am wondering about the times when it is hard to start, and jerking the
rope out of your hand, spitback, etc.
When you rebuilt the saw, you used an aftermarket piston/cyl?
Just go back over with what you have done before, with some detail,
and these guys may come up with some other ideas.
When you went through the carb, what did you find? Did you use the
full rebuild kit?
My point is, maybe you have jumped to the seal idea as your problem,
and jumped over the real trouble, just a thought.
Since you are in a technical/mechanical field, then you should have
easy access to a mighty vac, or some other pressure/vac gauges, then a leakdown test is quite easy. A piece of rubber between the muffler and
block, a $.25 cork in the intake boot, and air/vac applied to the impulse hose/nipple, with the spark plug in, see if it holds pressure or a vacuum.
1/16" to 1/8"?? Wow.. a few thou would be bad.. that's a really bad bearing. You might want to consider finding a good used crankcase ($50..??) rather than fixing it at a shop. You'll need to split the case, both bearings (one will damage the other), seals, some tools and a bunch of time, and... the crank may have excessive run-out from thrashing around with a bad bearing.
1/16" to 1/8"?? Wow.. a few thou would be bad.. that's a really bad bearing. You might want to consider finding a good used crankcase ($50..??) rather than fixing it at a shop. You'll need to split the case, both bearings (one will damage the other), seals, some tools and a bunch of time, and... the crank may have excessive run-out from thrashing around with a bad bearing.
Hey Andy,
Did you ever deal with ebay seller "cheapstihlparts" out of Everett? He has few 028 crank cases for sale. One question, are all the 028 (WB, AV Super, AV) crank cases all same? The reason I ask is that I know there were 3 different piston sizes (42, 44, and 46mm). Thanks,
Hi Andy,
Gee, you bring all the good new! Yea bad crank bearings for sure! Just the magnetics is pulling over the flywheel! Do you think taking it down to Madsen's would hurt the pocket too bad? I've heard that they have a flat rate on it (I'll call them this morning). Andy, What are the odds that crankcase is reusable? Hoping the bearings didn't spun in the case. What have you seen in the past? Did find many loaded (crank/rod/bearings/seals) crank case on ebay for pretty good price $50-75 (I think). I guess this would be easiest approch and just swap everything over.
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