I recently noticed something strange on the crepe myrtle in front of the condo two doors down from me. You may remember a thread called "hack job" featuring these same trees. This particular tree is the only one that has not fully grown back. Can anyone tell me what the green spots growing on this tree are? Notice that the back half of this tree has not sprouted at all. Thanks, Roger.
What's up with these crepes?
- Thread starter rb_in_va
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Dadatwins
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks like you will soon have a crepe myrtle bush once all those buds pop open. If the buds survive and do not get burned up from the sun.
FYI, here's a pic I posted some time ago after the trees were topped. All six trees were done like this. What do you guys recommend at this point?
http://www.arboristsite.com/attach/11898.jpg
http://www.arboristsite.com/attach/11898.jpg
Guy Meilleur
Addicted to ArboristSite
Let em grow back. Low N fert after leaf drop to aid codit. Feb '06 thin weaker sprouts to promote air movt. Feb '07, '08 thin lightly to train new leaders while retaining midtree branches so flowering is up and down the plant.
coffeecraver
ArboristSite Operative
Looks like the Crape is planted too close to the building and was
topped to keep it off the building,If this is the case then it is likely
that it will be topped again.
If the Crape is desired then it should be cut down to about 4'
and enjoyed as a shrub.
Multipal toppings would look a lot worse than a shrub.
This appears to be a classic case of the wrong plant in the wrong place
Guy Meilleur
Addicted to ArboristSite
Norm I do not agree; by the looks of the pic the plant is sited well away from the bldg and can mature there. Crepes don't sway in the wind that much.
The green spots, don't know, don't really look for sure like buds breaking, but maybe they are.
It would make sense that the ones facing the bldg break last, because they get less light. Can you get better resolution somehow?
The green spots, don't know, don't really look for sure like buds breaking, but maybe they are.
It would make sense that the ones facing the bldg break last, because they get less light. Can you get better resolution somehow?
M.D. Vaden
vadenphotography.com
It's obvious that a shrub might be more fitting. But even a shrub crape will eventually become a tree. If I inherited that one, I'd probably remove it, just because. But if I kept it, I'd try it tall and train it up and away in increments as it grew. Looks like the air space is fairly plentiful.
As I listed on my own site, I don't recommend fertilizing trees in most cases unless the soil is known to be nutrient deficient, especially since it increases sail)
But as the Meilleur meister said - low nitrogen if you do it. Nitro is what enlarges leaves, so it needs to be minimal. So in your case nitro should be fine - unless the ground was already fertilized.
Remember, fertilizers...all of them....organics too.. give off salts and the salts kill beneficial mycorrhize and other microorganisms. I have followed the research of Forest and Soil Biology scientists / educators in Oregon that provided that beneficial learning.
That means that IF a light fertilizing should be done at all, separate that light dose into 4 to 6 extremely light doses through the year to reduce the concentration of the leaching chemicals.
You can see my full article on Root Feeding - see menu at http://www.mdvaden.com
As I listed on my own site, I don't recommend fertilizing trees in most cases unless the soil is known to be nutrient deficient, especially since it increases sail)
But as the Meilleur meister said - low nitrogen if you do it. Nitro is what enlarges leaves, so it needs to be minimal. So in your case nitro should be fine - unless the ground was already fertilized.
Remember, fertilizers...all of them....organics too.. give off salts and the salts kill beneficial mycorrhize and other microorganisms. I have followed the research of Forest and Soil Biology scientists / educators in Oregon that provided that beneficial learning.
That means that IF a light fertilizing should be done at all, separate that light dose into 4 to 6 extremely light doses through the year to reduce the concentration of the leaching chemicals.
You can see my full article on Root Feeding - see menu at http://www.mdvaden.com
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coffeecraver
ArboristSite Operative
Im sure that if you put a tape measure from the base of the building to the base of the tree,it would be less than 24"
The leads on the building side are at about 2 1/2" caliper
im betting that that tree was topped because it was running into the windows.
I would bet that there is at least 3' of bed between the base of the tree and the walk. If the tree had been planted closer to the walk it would not have been topped.
The leads on the building side are at about 2 1/2" caliper
im betting that that tree was topped because it was running into the windows.
I would bet that there is at least 3' of bed between the base of the tree and the walk. If the tree had been planted closer to the walk it would not have been topped.
Guy Meilleur
Addicted to ArboristSite
Maybe so Norm, farther away would have been better, no doubt.
But shortening them THAT far to clear the building made a bad situation worse; regrowth from those cuts will perennially crowd the bldg, whereas if tips had been pruned regrowth would be minimal.
OK rbinva, measure the distance please and get a good closeup of those blotches/buds, ok?
But shortening them THAT far to clear the building made a bad situation worse; regrowth from those cuts will perennially crowd the bldg, whereas if tips had been pruned regrowth would be minimal.
OK rbinva, measure the distance please and get a good closeup of those blotches/buds, ok?
I will take a measurement of the distance from the house. I can tell you that the tree has already grown back so much (the one in front of my unit anyway) that it's brushing up against the house. I will take a regular camera pic and scan it so those buds are more clear. Or I might borrow a digital cam from someone. Later, Roger.
coffeecraver
ArboristSite Operative
Originally posted by Guy Meilleur
Maybe so Norm, farther away would have been better, no doubt.
But shortening them THAT far to clear the building made a bad situation worse; regrowth from those cuts will perennially crowd the bldg, whereas if tips had been pruned regrowth would be minimal.
I agree !
Hey Nancy is going to call you about getting together with me when you get to Richmond. We had a meeting at the meeting site
and I have been chosen to be your guide.
rb are you going to the ISA meeting in Richmond in Sept?
Guy Meilleur
Addicted to ArboristSite
My guide for what, the park? I didn't know I was in on that part of it, but I wouldn't mind. Let me know.
I measured the distance between the crepe in front of my unit and the building. It is 6 feet away, 6 1/2 feet if you measure to the center of the trunk.
When is the ISA meeting? And do you have to be a member or be an arborist or something? Thanks for the help guys. I will take a better pic of the green spots as soon as I can. Later, Roger.
When is the ISA meeting? And do you have to be a member or be an arborist or something? Thanks for the help guys. I will take a better pic of the green spots as soon as I can. Later, Roger.
Guy Meilleur
Addicted to ArboristSite
Toldya Norm , right tree right place imho.
Meeting sep 27-29, 27th is field day, may have most interest to a nonarborist.
www.mac-isa.org
, right tree right place imho.Meeting sep 27-29, 27th is field day, may have most interest to a nonarborist.
www.mac-isa.org
coffeecraver
ArboristSite Operative
Oh well must have been the angle I was looking at.
Guy, Nancy is going to call you
rb the first isa meeting I went too I was not a certified arborist
it was a good experience and I learned alot.
They are going to have ariel rescues.
Look at my post Mac-Isa Annual Meeting to get links to all the details
