What's wrong with me? My chain? My saw? See this dust flying fine as flour?

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This was with my other 3/8 saw (my 038) with the same exact chain, but more life left in it. Ground on the HF, then hand filed. Rip cutting in dead Hickory. It must be that that particular chain on my Husky won't cut. I got it sharper (by hand) but not match sticks like the chain on the stihl.


Rip cutting vs cross cutiing chips are apples vs oranges.
 
Rip cutting vs cross cutiing chips are apples vs oranges.

The dust in the first post was also rip cutting. Just no filing (only the HF grinder) and on a really worn out chain. That was also dead maple vs hickory on the picture with better chips. Probably the biggest difference was that I touched up with a file after the grinder. Hard to say though. I have noticed before that once I have 8 or 10 sharpenings, sometimes I can't get a chain to cut any more. Always thought I was doing something wrong. Maybe just not enough tooth left on the cutters in some of those cases.
 
The dust in the first post was also rip cutting. Just no filing (only the HF grinder) and on a really worn out chain. That was also dead maple vs hickory on the picture with better chips. Probably the biggest difference was that I touched up with a file after the grinder. Hard to say though. I have noticed before that once I have 8 or 10 sharpenings, sometimes I can't get a chain to cut any more. Always thought I was doing something wrong. Maybe just not enough tooth left on the cutters in some of those cases.


My chains cut fine until a cutter or two break off . Even my milling chains. The witness/angle marks are long since filed away.
 
I've always noticed chains cutting faster as they wear out. The chain gets narrower and cuts a thinner kerf, as long as the bar rails aren't worn out
Bigger gullet too, for moving chips.

The race chain guys usually grind away most of the cutter. But they are not racing with bars that have sloppy, worn grooves.


Philbert
 
Bigger gullet too, for moving chips.

The race chain guys usually grind away most of the cutter. But they are not racing with bars that have sloppy, worn grooves.


Philbert
Some actually run 050 chains on 058 bars to lessen friction. But the cutters are so sharp and rakers are so consistent that the chain cuts straight
 
Bigger gullet too, for moving chips.

The race chain guys usually grind away most of the cutter. But they are not racing with bars that have sloppy, worn grooves.


Philbert


Must be part of my problem. I buy used and can't remember a bar that I couldn't roll the chain back and forth in the groove. Cheaper to just keep using vs 50 for a new bar.
 
A worn or uneven bar can cause a variety of problems, or at least frustration.

Sometimes, the best way to troubleshoot a problem is to replace parts one-at-a-time: guide bar, chain, sprocket. Other guys will just buy all 3 and start over.

Philbert
 
When the rakers are too high the cutters do not have enough exposure to the wood so they skim across the wood making lesser amounts of chips. Take the rakers too low like I do some time you get some hurky jerky action. What seems to be left out is when the rakers are close to the right condition for the wood the cutters stay sharper longer along with it cutting great. Thanks
 
The new chain will make fine dust as well if I don't have good wood to dig the dogs into. This is rip cutting an odd shaped trunk section where I couldnt dig them in for leverage. But... If I can dig in and load the saw, it makes match sticks no problem. So I think it's a mix of all the above problem possibilities in the title (except for the saw). Mostly me and the chain were to blame I believe.
 

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Bigger gullet too, for moving chips.

The race chain guys usually grind away most of the cutter. But they are not racing with bars that have sloppy, worn grooves.


Philbert
It’s interesting as I’ve heard guys who race say that and others say the exact opposite, they like the higher reach of a brand new chain that’s been filed to their specs. Either way that’s above my grade for sure.
 
It’s interesting as I’ve heard guys who race say that and others say the exact opposite, they like the higher reach of a brand new chain that’s been filed to their specs.
I have seen guys win races with low-kickback chain, out-of-the-box.

Sometimes the 'secret sauce' does not come to fruition. Sometimes (a lot times, IMO) it is the operator.

But the bigger gullet and taking as much weight off of the chain as possible (and often beyond what is practical) come up in a lot of these forums for 'race chains'. Not necessarily the best advice for 'work chains'.

Philbert
 
I have very little experience here, but I must admit, I love the 2 in 1 sharpeners by stihl. They don’t work on skip tooth chains though. Even the Stihl shop congratulated me on how sharp they teeth were when it went in for its first service having sharpened it before dropping it in. Then again, I don’t know anything else so take this with a pinch of salt.
 
If the wood is really hard and dry the chain may be just skimming in the cut without even going in raker depth, this would give you that fine dust. Haven't come across that situation yet, but I know I always get bigger chunks with less dust in green wood of any kind.

As to the full chisel tooth illusion, that's really funky. Hermaphrodite chain? It's got both types of naughty bits.:p
 
If the wood is really hard and dry the chain maybe just skimming in the cut without even going in raker depth, this would give you that fine dust. Haven't come across that situation yet, but I know I always get bigger chunks with less dust in green wood of any kind.

As to the full chisel tooth illusion, that's really funky. Hermaphrodite chain? It's got both types of naughty bits.:p
Binary.....
 
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