When Sharpening with a bench grinder (Oregon type)

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IchWarriorMkII

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What degree is the back adjustment set to? On the sharpener Im using, its set to a 45* angle. This cuts a sharper angle than on the factory chain, and Im curious as to what this setting effects as the chain cuts.

It looks as to give it a sharper point, vs. a flat cutting edge when looking at the chain from a side profile.
 
Most round chisel chains call for 60 degrees, and even the semi-chisels that call for something else seem to benefit from the 60 degree angle. Anyway, I've always used that setting and I've been content with the results.
 
IchWarriorMkII said:
What degree is the back adjustment set to? On the sharpener Im using, its set to a 45* angle. This cuts a sharper angle than on the factory chain, and Im curious as to what this setting effects as the chain cuts.

It looks as to give it a sharper point, vs. a flat cutting edge when looking at the chain from a side profile.

Take a piece of brand new chain and setup your grinder to match the factory angles and it should do a good job for you, also keep the grinding wheel dressed up to keep your chain it's sharpest.
 
when sharping with a bench grinder (Oregon type)

You will need a diamond wheel dresser or a stone one. I use a norbin stone dresser. Be sure to keep a radius on the wheel. I also dress the rock lightly ever 2 or 3 chains. If you do not the rock will load up and burn your chain. Tom
 
45 would probably work fine. You are likely just slightly too deep with your cut, or your radius is wrong.

Duplicating the factory angle has less to do with the exact angle of the wheel than the depth to which you cut with it. Think about the edge of the wheel as 1/2 a file... The smallest adjustment in depth can make a big difference in cutter "shape" particularly when you go deeper than the radius of the wheel. Don't go chasing the wheel angle to make your cutter look right... Fix it and forget it.

I have a Stihl USG and it's set to 40. This corresponds to 50 on say a Tec or Oregon as the scales are inverted. I then use the tilt +/15 for the +/-30 of left and right cutters. With the correct wheel profile and depth, the factory profile (etched into each stihl chain tooth) is pretty much guaranteed, no matter the chain type.
 
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