Where's it gonna fall?

[FoolsRushIn]

Two 60-70 foot locusts in my yard were recently converted from upright citizens to 10-15 degree leaners (rotated root ball) by a nasty little storm passing through (flattened 5 12 inch locusts in a nearby corner of the yard.) The leaners are about 8 feet apart, 20 inches DBH. Felling them in the direction of lean is unappealing, as the tops would land in my pool, and a large branch would likely flatten sections of the pool fence. I'm not quite crazy enough to climb them (wife not even close to that crazy), and the first arborist I had out wanted $3400 to take them down, more than I'm willing to pay. While waiting for the next guy, I've been looking at the place they could be felled without much other damage. It would require that they fall in a direction perpendicular to the lean. There is a handy 12 incher about 50 feet on the line away from the lean. If I took a strong tight line from 25 feet up a leaner down to the base of the 12 incher, and another line with a several hundred pounds pull lead away in the desired direction of fall, notched, then backcut straight in, do you think they could be induced to fall as desired? Trunks are reasonably straight, branches not very intertwined.
On the advisability front of course, everything I know about tree-falling I learned reading this site in the last 24 hours. So take it in two parts: do you think they can be felled as desired with no more equipment than described, then you can comment on the intelligence of such an undertaking (pun intended).

Thanks!

 

[Stumper]

Probably. There are better ways to do it though.Try to set the pull line high and use a swing dutchman or tapered hinge. I'm too tired to try to explain how those cuts are made(102* here today). If you aren't familiar with them this job wouldn't be the place to learn anyway. Best wishes.

 

[FoolsRushIn]

Rocky: 20" DBH, Stumper: thick part of hinge away from lean?

Thanks guys

 

[TREETX]

You sound like a hard worker and $3400.00 is a fair spot of cash. Try finding someone who will just put it on the ground for a fee.

Shopping for an arborist is difficult - many varying levels of education and skill out there and price corresponds soley with opportunity costs or in some cases, substance abuse habits. Price tells you little about who is doing the work. Check to see if they have insurance. Really,....check.

I do that for people in your situation. Many times the cost is just 1/3 of cutting and removing - sometimes less. Beware, cost of hauling goes up once it is on the ground in a cluster flicked mess.

 

[M.D. Vaden]

If those trees were in a wide open front yard, I'd say $3400 is through the roof.

But if its in the back, it could be realistic if there are building and breakables around.

Although that 3400 sounds like a price for complete removal off the property, not just getting them down.

A 20" DBH one of those is not really a very old tree, even if 60' tall one. And maybe your 60' is really 50', I wouldn't know.

 

[M.D. Vaden]

In fact, while I remember, check our home page at:

www.mdvaden.com

See the photo of the trunk cross section by the pickup?

That was from a friend's back yard. It was a Silver Maple, and that trunk is 36" DBH one way, and 40" DBH the other.

At least 1/2 of that tree was over the house - the bigger trunk located about 8' away from the house. It was about 80' tall, and had a spread of about 65 -70 feet.

That was about a $1800 removal to drop, chip the limbs, rake and blow, and cut the whole thing to firewood stacked in the front driveway.

No need to haul wood here in Oregon. If its cut to 16", all that's needed is to call a friend, or run a $5 thrifty ad for FREE firewood cut to length. That tree had 2 cords of wood unsplit.

That $1800 price was not a discount for a friend. That was full regular price, a fair market price.

 

[TREETX]

Originally posted by M.D. Vaden
trunk is 36" DBH one way, and 40" DBH the other.

buy a D tape

did you mean 38"????????

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Fools rush in,
When the tree guy is there giving you a bid, tell him your idea, then watch his reaction. Felling the tree in this direction may not have crossed his mind and could save you some money if done this way. But if the seasoned professional doesn't think he can do it this way, what makes you think you can?

 

[FoolsRushIn]

Thanks all, appreciate the advice

Talking it over with the tree guy definitely a good idea; the first guy did say he could put them down in that area by pulling them, and his price was for complete removal. Still, the $1800 described for the larger Maple is more in line with what I expected, so will have to see what other bidders say.
I have to say that the challenge of doing it myself is interesting, that is really why I posted for feedback on chance of success vs. dropping tree on pool or myself.
When a tree measures say 20" wide one way and 18" wide the other, what would you call it as DBH? Does that term always imply a perimeter measurement divided by Pi? (i.e. an assumed circular cross-section?)

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Looks like a job for Ken F.

He could get them on the ground for a reasoable price and food

If you want to do it your self, get the boof Proffesional Timber Falling by D. Dent


http://www.ddouglasdent.com/books.htm