melloyello
ArboristSite Lurker
The 271 is a good choice. At the same weight you could bump up to the 291 and gain .27hp but don't know that that's worth another $100 to me.
Which saw to get?
- Thread starter Commguy24
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longbowch
ArboristSite Guru
You'll be back for s bigger saw in a year!
flashhole
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think so too.
Now that you mentioned it... I started comparing the 271 to the 291 and it is the same weight and more power. Then when I start searching around for reviews and comparisons of the 271 vs the 291 it looks like it makes sens to go the the 291 since its more power for the same weight.
Then I start looking in to the 291 and I am finding people saying if your going to get the 291 might as well spend the extra $100 and get the 261 CM since its more horse power and much lighter and has the m-tronic and will last longer. I saw it has a different type of chain on it to so I 'm not sure if maybe the chain cuts faster or goes longer between needing to sharpen? The M-tronic looks very new, is this something to worry about that it may break often?
Now I am stuck again... Is it really worth the extra $200 to go from the 271 to the 261?
If I do go with the 261 what size bar, 18 or 20"?
Then I start looking in to the 291 and I am finding people saying if your going to get the 291 might as well spend the extra $100 and get the 261 CM since its more horse power and much lighter and has the m-tronic and will last longer. I saw it has a different type of chain on it to so I 'm not sure if maybe the chain cuts faster or goes longer between needing to sharpen? The M-tronic looks very new, is this something to worry about that it may break often?
Now I am stuck again... Is it really worth the extra $200 to go from the 271 to the 261?
If I do go with the 261 what size bar, 18 or 20"?
261 is twice the saw. They love an 18. If you're only cutting 10 cords a year, it'll last you the rest of your life.
Yep that's what I have been reading all over so I will go with the 261 CM. Thanks again for all the input. I'm a skinny guy only 145lbs so the lighter the saw the better. Going from an MS 211 to an MS 261 is going to be a huge jump in performance for me, yet will still weigh the same. Win/Win.
I'm not sure how much range a dealer has to play with on this equipment but I'm picking up all at once the 27 ton splitter, a BR600 blower, and now the MS261 along with a few extra chains and some oil. I'm hoping they can hook me up with some kind of break.
I'm not sure how much range a dealer has to play with on this equipment but I'm picking up all at once the 27 ton splitter, a BR600 blower, and now the MS261 along with a few extra chains and some oil. I'm hoping they can hook me up with some kind of break.
melloyello
ArboristSite Lurker
I didn't know you were willing to spend a couple hundred more dollars or I would have recommended a better saw. You probably won't pick up your current saw much after you get the upgrade.
Mello, I originally had no intention to spend that much on a saw and I can't really afford it but I'm going to make it work. After tons of research I realize that for the extra money I'll be getting a saw that is lighter and will last longer. If this saw truly lasts me 10 years than I have no problem shelling out extra money.
I'm also making a huge initial investment because my goal is to save money in the long run because I would like to be depending on firewood instead of oil.
I'm also making a huge initial investment because my goal is to save money in the long run because I would like to be depending on firewood instead of oil.
The 261 should last you a long time. It will be stronger and lighter than the 271/291 saws. The extra money you spend initially won't be much over the life of the saw.
Let's put it this way, my buddy has some 4 year old 261s still going strong, and a couple 271s he got about 6 months out of. This is commercial daily use. With good maintenance, a commercial grade saw will last a homeowner the rest of his life. It's beyond weight and power , it's the internals as well.
You will love the MS261C-M. I have both 16" and 20" bars/chains for mine. It pulls the 20" with ease, but I find it feels better balanced with the 16" bar. Either way, it's an awesome saw.
ggoodman
ArboristSite Operative
Have not seen anyone suggest picking up a used pro saw vs a new 261. used 361/2's can be had at a fair bit less than $600 and would be much more suited to the task of 18" oak trees and time management. just a thought.
flashhole
Addicted to ArboristSite
No one has suggested renting saws of different sizes either to see the performance difference.
In my eyes the 261 just kind of made the 360 series obsolete. If a 261 won't cut it, might as well grab a 441. The 50cc saws have come so far, and the 70cc saws have gotten so light, 60cc saws just seem superfluous.
I've been waiting years for the chance to use that word...
I've been waiting years for the chance to use that word...
ggoodman
ArboristSite Operative
there's no replacement for displacement.
Enough has been said about saws and sharpening. If you are burning in a regular fireplace, you are pissing all your work and effort away. Start thinking about a stove or insert to really save money.
flashhole
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree. This was installed on October 26th. It replaced a flush mount insert that was installed about 50 years ago. Old one was not very efficient at all. This one is a lot more frugal on wood. Our preference would have been a free-standing wood stove, nothing like that radiating heat, but this one sticks out onto the hearth about 10 inches. It's a Lopi Freedom.
Trying to cut 10 cords a winter to heat a house with a fireplace is like pissing in the wind. The vast majority of heat from a fireplace goes up the chimney without heating the house and it draws in cold outside air to feed the fire. With a freestanding wood stove heat radiates from all 4 sides, plus the top of the stove to heat the room, instead of going up the chimney. Plus, you have much better control over draft and airflow to moderate the burn rate. An insert is much better than a straight fireplace, not not as good as a wood stove. A blower should help the efficiency of an insert.
You need to seriously consider upgrading to an insert or wood stove if you want any reasonable chance of really cutting your heating bills. I agree you need a bigger saw, but I'm not sure the insert/stove wouldn't be a bigger bang for the buck. You really need both, plus the splitter. It's a big investment, but a good stove or insert may cut that wood usage in half, or even more.
You need to seriously consider upgrading to an insert or wood stove if you want any reasonable chance of really cutting your heating bills. I agree you need a bigger saw, but I'm not sure the insert/stove wouldn't be a bigger bang for the buck. You really need both, plus the splitter. It's a big investment, but a good stove or insert may cut that wood usage in half, or even more.
I use the Stihl cm 261. I sharpen all chains myself and repair them if I can. Taking chains in to get sharpened is a waste of time in my eyes. A 261 is plenty of saw to take down up to atleast 22" DBH. Bigger trees are possible with an experienced feller. Learn the skill of sharpening your own chains, and breaking down your saw for cleanings daily. At that point you will know your saw through and through. You will know when it is cutting poorly, and usually have a general idea for the reason behind it. Experience comes with time. Keep at all aspects of cutting and you will be a sawyer in no time.
Also yes Erik B, PPE is a must! I feel naked without it.
Also yes Erik B, PPE is a must! I feel naked without it.
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