Which small Stihl to buy?

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I climb with a 200t. My saw mech. tells me that the saw is not intended for ground use. Not because of the handle design but because of the engine design. I have a 250 for my small saw and it works well. For a good all around saw I used to have a 290 with a 3/8 sprocket. It worked great till it was stolen.​

no offense towards you, but to your saw mechanic, that is the most off the wall statement I have ever heard! What in the world would the engine design have to do with whether its on the ground or in the air? I use mine out of a bucket and on the ground for delimbing and have never had an issue. Now I would never give the new guy a t-handle on the ground for obvious reasons but I can be pretty efficient with one.
 
I cut over 10 cords last year with just my 16" MS210. Definately not the fastest or most powerful saw but it gets the job done. I got myself a new MS310 this fall and it really makes a lot faster work in larger wood, but the old MS210 still sees plenty of action cutting up the small stuff.
 
no offense towards you, but to your saw mechanic, that is the most off the wall statement I have ever heard! What in the world would the engine design have to do with whether its on the ground or in the air? I use mine out of a bucket and on the ground for delimbing and have never had an issue. Now I would never give the new guy a t-handle on the ground for obvious reasons but I can be pretty efficient with one.

I didn't get him to give me the break down on it but my assumption was the time the engine is running and the load . I had it rebuilt after 2 years because the carb went out and I adjusted when I should have brought it in. He first tried to accuse me of using it on the ground and I said no way. He said that is what kills em. I really don't know his reasoning behind it but as far as I can tell he knows what he is talking about. Of all the saw shops I have dealt with he is the best.​
 
I've had a 192 T for a year now, and it does well for what I bought it for - just limbing. I use my old 026 for most of my cutting. I bought the 192 T for its ultra-light weight, which is sure nice. It cuts well, but I just don't see it holding up long under heavy use.

If you plan to put a lot of hours on a small saw, I would suggest something other than a 192T.

Tim
 
Your problem sounds like mine about a year ago. I had a 460 and was looking for a smaller saw. So I got a MS180. Yea, it was a alright saw for small stuff. Well, then I started looking for a saw for medium sized wood. So I picked up a 026, then a Husky 346 too.

Well, to sum it up, the 180 sees absolutly no use anymore. My goto saw is the 346 for small or medium wood, the 460 for medium to large and my 395 for the huge stuff.

I honestly have no place for the 180 anymore. If I had to keep only 2 saws it would be the 460 and the 346 or 026.
 
If you plan to put a lot of hours on a small saw, I would suggest something other than a 192T.

Tim

Have you had any breakdown with the 192T?

I ask because, while the 192T is a lighter weight and less robust brother to the 200T, it still seems like a very solid saw. You just can't expect to work quickly as the wood thickens beyond 8".

But as a go to, light top handle saw, I love the 192T in either a 12" .050"/.043" setup. I just started using the 12" .043" setup, and the saw is quicker in the cut as well as stronger in big cuts. I'll have to see if the Oregon .043" chain dulls more quickly than the Stihl .050" loops.
 
Have you had any breakdown with the 192T?

I ask because, while the 192T is a lighter weight and less robust brother to the 200T, it still seems like a very solid saw. You just can't expect to work quickly as the wood thickens beyond 8".

But as a go to, light top handle saw, I love the 192T in either a 12" .050"/.043" setup. I just started using the 12" .043" setup, and the saw is quicker in the cut as well as stronger in big cuts. I'll have to see if the Oregon .043" chain dulls more quickly than the Stihl .050" loops.

No, I have not had any real problems with it yet. The recoil did fail almost immediately, which I fixed and then took back to the dealer to fix under warranty. It cuts well on the small stuff I use it for. But its entirely plastic and my experience with the recoil got me to wondering how long all that plastic will hold up. It looks like the grabber teeth on the front of the case are rounding off already.

I bought it when the last of my 015's finally croaked - but they were almost 30 years old, and I put tons of hours on each of them. Somehow I doubt the 192T will last nearly that long - and I cut a heck of a lot less wood now than I did when I sold firewood in the early 80's. Time will tell.

Tim
 
Stihl 260 pro with 16" bar is hard to beat for limbing and other use, but will run you $500. My brother won a Stihl MS170 a few years ago in a raffle at a wildlife banquet and it is a great little saw to cut small branches around the yard as it is lightweight. However, I wouldn't want to start cutting too many 4-8" trees (or larger limbs with it) with it, as I don't think it will take much abuse at all. However, still a good little saw for a homeowner that needs to clean up after a thunder storm etc. etc.
 
that is assinine!

I didn't get him to give me the break down on it but my assumption was the time the engine is running and the load . I had it rebuilt after 2 years because the carb went out and I adjusted when I should have brought it in. He first tried to accuse me of using it on the ground and I said no way. He said that is what kills em. I really don't know his reasoning behind it but as far as I can tell he knows what he is talking about. Of all the saw shops I have dealt with he is the best.​

i know guys who use them on the ground for years.his accusations are baseless.

i am not saying i would use one on the ground but to each their own.

i think the best bang for the buck is the MS 211.the 192 rear handle would be a good choice too with a muffler mod.i would skip it and go for the 211 though.
 
i like the 170/180 myself.

i didn't take it serious at first but then i used one.

for the price it's a great limbing saw.
 
I went through the same thing last year. I wanted a MS200 rear handle, but couldn't stand the price. I wound-up buying a MS210 and it has proven to be a GREAT saw. BTW, looking at the specs, the MS200 and MS210 appear to have the same displacement engine - which is most likely the same engine.

My Dad has an MS180 and it is a GREAT saw and most easy on the back! Why I went with the MS210 vs the MS180 was that the model MS210 I bought had a traditional two bolt bar cover with side access chain tensioner vs the tooless type, the MS210 was available with a 16" bar and .050 chain (vs .043 for the MS180) and the last reason was my dealer had a 10% off sale. I think the MS210 cost me about $225ish.

Good luck,
Bill
 
i know guys who use them on the ground for years.his accusations are baseless.

i am not saying i would use one on the ground but to each their own.

i think the best bang for the buck is the MS 211.the 192 rear handle would be a good choice too with a muffler mod.i would skip it and go for the 211 though.
I doubt that they are baseless. If this man said it was not good for the saw I believe him. He repairs all of asplunds saws and most of the saws for the larger outfits around here. I would love to here the opinion of a mech that works on these saws and not just someone who has seen them used on the ground. This is a 600 dollar saw designed for climbers. Its use on the ground is saw abuse in my opinion.
 
What he probably means is running the saw in a horizontal position with the muffler against the ground. I've ruined a little homelite super ez cleaning fence rows, continually running them against the ground sawing off sprouts and multifloral rose bushes builds up a ton of heat and will cause saw failure. I've got a little top handled 009 that has seen a ton of limbing on the ground with no issues. I sure what he means is holding the muffler against the ground sawing horizontally.
 
Sorry Daniel but if this man is the know all for saws, why question him here??
 
i am also a mechanic as well as a climber.

I doubt that they are baseless. If this man said it was not good for the saw I believe him. He repairs all of asplunds saws and most of the saws for the larger outfits around here. I would love to here the opinion of a mech that works on these saws and not just someone who has seen them used on the ground. This is a 600 dollar saw designed for climbers. Its use on the ground is saw abuse in my opinion.


if is foolish and unsafe to use it on the ground? i think so but there is nothing that would cause it damage from running in on the ground besides hitting dirt or a rock with the chain.just like any other saw.
 
Well this is the last I will say on the matter. I think I will follow my mechanics advise and apologize to everyone else for passing it on. I really do not know anything about the inner workings of my saw but I do know how to run one like a scalded cat . nuff said.​
 
stihl 026 pro

just ran into a 026 pro flat top in mint shape. pretty literally (mint that is). it fell a couple trees and thats it. bar code sticker on the front is still there and readable. i was debating picking it up. Thanks for the helpful thread gang!
 

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