I need a larger chainsaw

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The power for the microprocessor is generated by the saw once it starts. I think it must have a default air-fuel ratio to start, then gets optimized dynamically after starting. Yes, it is a lot of money. But it is fun! I was just cutting firewood over the weekend. I can cut about 0.8 cords on each tankful of fuel.
I run a couple tanks of gas, takes me the next 3 or 4 days to split and clean up the mess in my spare time.
 
I've got an old 090, an 084, 076, 066, 460, 291, ,170 and just recently bought a new 661. the older saws have more weight but can't beat them for large trees
 
I run a couple tanks of gas, takes me the next 3 or 4 days to split and clean up the mess in my spare time.
I do not split the wood until about 2 years later. I stack it up in the round outdoors. When I split it, I store it under an overhang where it does not get rained on but gets some sun and plenty of air circulation. It splits easier that way and it dries out to about 10% moisture. I go through about 6 cords per year.
 
I've got an old 090, an 084, 076, 066, 460, 291, ,170 and just recently bought a new 661. the older saws have more weight but can't beat them for large trees
In the old days, they actually made saws with a gear reducer. I never used one, but I am sure they had the torque needed for really large trees, but were probably rather slow. As for me, I just cut firewood, and I have no need to cut anything bigger than a 20" bar can handle (though I did use my 25" on a 24" hickory once. It was pretty hard to move the rounds.)
 
I tried out the 500i last night. I ran almost two tanks of fuel through her. It has more power that’s for sure but I was still running into a few spots where the wood would catch the chain while ripping with the grain.
I would guess ripping takes lots of power to pull the chain. But on regular cuts across the grain it had plenty of power.

I have several more pieces of wood that were from the trunk of a large pecan that are 18” long but so large around I cut them in 1/4’s to load them on the trailer. The 25” bar still won’t go all the way through on the cut. I’m having to rip them into smaller pieces so my 30 ton splitter can handle them.

I inspected inside the air filter, sure enough fine dust was getting in. The new filter will be here Friday.

Would a skip chain be better for these cuts?
Let’s see a picture of the dust in the horn
 
Chuck slowly reaches into the back pocket of his coveralls, and feels around for his can of "whoop ass".. Oh.. Hell.. There it is!! Let's spray some!!

IMHO, there's two kinds of cutting..

One is where you've got all the time in the world.. you basically buy the cheapest saw that will do the job. If it's slower.. Oh well.. It was cheap ( but still a quality name brand ) ! You only cut 10 cords or less a year... properly maintained, it'll go at least a decade, ( as long as it's not a Chinese knock off. :) ). For example, I'll use my Echo 355T for stuff that probably really should have been something bigger. I'll use it to drop anything that doesn't bury the bar. ( softwood , Birch. ) But, with no time frame, no hurry, I can finish this tomorrow, or the day after, depending on the weather.. I prefer the lighter saw.. It's easier on my retired body.

Two, is where you're cutting for money.. on a regular and consistent basis. Especially if you've quoted a job at a set price. The customer doesn't give a rat's petootie how long it takes you. It's irrelevant to them. They don't care if you do it with a dull Sawzall. Straight maths, if the cheaper saw ( too small ) , takes ten seconds more per cut, and you're doing 200 cuts a day ( ever cut down a tree that didn't require 200 cuts?) .. that's 2,000 seconds. That's over a half an hour a day. Cut 200 days a year.. That's 110 hours.. almost three weeks ( in man hours ), of work. Think about it.. Three weeks worth of work.. At $25.00 ( minimum ), an hour, times 110 hours, is over $2,500. That'd pay for a hell of a saw upgrade. Waiting for the saw to make cuts? I can't fathom that on a job site. Add onto that, if you're running a crew, if they are waiting for you, ( or your Arborist ), or anyone else on the crew, to drop stuff, so that it can be processed.. that's an additional cost to the job, that eats into profitability. Combine that with ground crew losing seconds per cut, per day, per week, per year.. the results are huge.

IMHO, the best saw that you can get for the productivity that you need, is the cheapest saw that you should get. Profitability gets maximised.

That being said, for occasional use, for " bang for the buck", saws.. there's ton of options. The 500 i really seems like one..
 
There's at least a third kind of cutter as well. The homeowner firewood cutter who also likes nice tools and enjoys chainsaws as a hobby, not just a tool. If I just wanted a budget tool to do the job, I'd have an Echo 590(the Toyota Corolla of saws) and wouldn't be on this forum at all. Instead I'm here, and really enjoy my 500i.
 
In the old days, they actually made saws with a gear reducer. I never used one, but I am sure they had the torque needed for really large trees, but were probably rather slow. As for me, I just cut firewood, and I have no need to cut anything bigger than a 20" bar can handle (though I did use my 25" on a 24" hickory once. It was pretty hard to move the rounds.)
The gear drives were great saws and were the way to run long bars. I love mine.
 
There's at least a third kind of cutter as well. The homeowner firewood cutter who also likes nice tools and enjoys chainsaws as a hobby, not just a tool. If I just wanted a budget tool to do the job, I'd have an Echo 590(the Toyota Corolla of saws) and wouldn't be on this forum at all. Instead I'm here, and really enjoy my 500i.
The Echo 590 ( AKA Timberwolf), is one of the saws that I kept when I downsized the fleet. I wasn't really interested in it, at first... I got it from a guy, who had bought a storage container at auction. It looked like the storage container belonged to a shop that went under. Surprisingly, it was legit, no problem registering it for Warranty. Paid a whopping $250.00 (CDN) cash for it, brand new, still in the box. Best money I ever spent on a saw. Guys on the crew would reach for it first, as it was lighter than the big Stihl saws. For stuff under 20 inches, it just rocked. In what's left of my crew of saws, it's the go to mid range saw. Stuff over 20 inches, it's time to haul out an old school Stihl. Stuff 12 inches or less, it's the Echo 355T.

Still drooling over a 500i.. Checked online, and right now, taxes in, it 2 grand (CDN)... OUCH!!..

"Toyota Corolla of saws" LMFAO.. I damn near spat coffee over the keyboard when I read that.. Great analogy! ( Still snickering as I type..).
 
I'm in Virginia and that $1,395 is tax included with a gallon of bar oil, 6 pack hp ultra 2 gallon mix, the 2 sides sharpener and 12 files for the sharpener
 
probably helps that it's only an 8 hour drive to the Stihl assembly plant in Virginia Beach from my house
 
I'm in Virginia and that $1,395 is tax included with a gallon of bar oil, 6 pack hp ultra 2 gallon mix, the 2 sides sharpener and 12 files for the sharpener

Leave the ULTRA and the 2-1 on the counter and ask for another $100 off the total.
 
all I grabbed when I bought my 661 carb version was the saw. the dealer threw in the hp ultra, gallon of bar oil, the 2 in 1 and the 12 extra files for the $1,200 I paid for the saw
 

Latest posts

Back
Top