Help deciding on Stihl Saw

[gggGary]

It's all your fault GrinJe ! I just bought a new 261C. Here they had a deal; 20" bar, two chains, a carry case and a FREE Stihl hat LOL. Bought a six pack of Ultra and they doubled the "home owner"warranty to 2 years.
My opinion get the the 261. Then if that just isn't enough saw for you add a 500 ;^)
If you get a big saw (500) at some point you're going to want a smaller saw all the while you're hefting more saw than you need. . But a 261 might just be all the saw you ever need.
Also nearing 70 A good work day is a 1/2 cord, dropped, bucked, hauled, split, and stacked in the racks. I'm not embarrassed to stop sooner if a nap calls....

 

[GrinJe]

• Hi GrinJe,
  I think I have read all of the replies to your post. I have not seen these questions asked:
  • Will you be felling? and what is the diameter of the average tree you will be felling?
  • What is the smallest diameter (limb or log) you cut for firewood?
  • Do you have any trees larger than 20" that you will be taking down?
  • What species of wood are you cutting?
  • If you are having logs delivered and, therefore, just bucking (and not limbing), what diameter are the logs?
  • Do you buck your logs from a pile, or separately on the ground or on a landing?
  • How many cords of wood per year do you cut?
  • Are you in good physical shape?
• All of those questions go into my choice of a saw.
  A full day for an experienced operator who is in good physical condition is 5-6 hours. Now that I am nearly 70 years of age, a full day for me is 3-5 hours - depending on the trees, the temp and the terrain. I fell, buck and split about 15-20 cords of mixed wood a year. Depending upon temperature, terrain and distance from my vehicle, I can fell, buck and haul out 1-1.5 cords of hardwood - maybe 2 cords of softwood in a big day. Most days, I am happy to get a cord of wood to my splitter and split it as I go, pulling blocks off the bed of my pickup truck straight to the splitter. I used to have a 261. If all of my trees were <= 20", I'd be very happy using a 261 with 2 bars: 16" and 20". I have a 400 and I like it a great deal, but I generally use my 2 smaller/lighter saws when I can.

Hey, Sorry for late answer. Was out sick.

• Will you be felling? and what is the diameter of the average tree you will be felling?
  • I will do felling, and the wood will be anything from 6-25", most of the wood is probably 12-18" range. The idea is to use the small electric saw for the smaller trees.
• What is the smallest diameter (limb or log) you cut for firewood?
  • You might laugh, but i tend to try to get the absolutely most out the trees, so i can go down to 4-5" sometimes.
• Do you have any trees larger than 20" that you will be taking down?
  • Yes, but not very often. Those trees will mostly be for timber and my dads farm.
• What species of wood are you cutting?
  • Birch, spruce, pine, alder, rowan and aspen. At the farm it will be mostly pine and birch, and at my own home i will have to cut whatever I get hold of. The farm is 7,5 hours drive from where i live.
• If you are having logs delivered and, therefore, just bucking (and not limbing), what diameter are the logs?
  • I will do all work from felling, to limbing and bucking. And size is same as mentioned above.
• Do you buck your logs from a pile, or separately on the ground or on a landing?
  • I will buck in a pile on the ground most of the time.
• How many cords of wood per year do you cut?
  • I had to check some conversion table, in Norway we use litre as mesurement. I think for firewood (to myself) I will make around 3-4 cords. But in addition comes the felling (both for timber and firewood) at the farm. So maybe 7-8 cords is the total scope.
• Are you in good physical shape?
  • I'm a big guy, 6'4, bit on the heavy side, but I grew up on a farm, so I'm pretty durable.

Thanks for your awesome answer

 

[GrinJe]

It's all your fault GrinJe ! I just bought a new 261C. Here they had a deal; 20" bar, two chains, a carry case and a FREE Stihl hat LOL. Bought a six pack of Ultra and they doubled the "home owner"warranty to 2 years.
My opinion get the the 261. Then if that just isn't enough saw for you add a 500 ;^)
If you get a big saw (500) at some point you're going to want a smaller saw all the while you're hefting more saw than you need. . But a 261 might just be all the saw you ever need.
Also nearing 70 A good work day is a 1/2 cord, dropped, bucked, hauled, split, and stacked in the racks. I'm not embarrassed to stop sooner if a nap calls....

Glad i could help

There was a guy selling a 500i for around 500 dollars below new price (Basically price of a 400 C-M) and it was new in box, I was a bit slow on my decision and now it's gone

I'm somewhat happy and sad at the same time

 

[chainbrake]

Hey, Sorry for late answer. Was out sick.

• Will you be felling? and what is the diameter of the average tree you will be felling?
  • I will do felling, and the wood will be anything from 6-25", most of the wood is probably 12-18" range. The idea is to use the small electric saw for the smaller trees.
• What is the smallest diameter (limb or log) you cut for firewood?
  • You might laugh, but i tend to try to get the absolutely most out the trees, so i can go down to 4-5" sometimes.
• Do you have any trees larger than 20" that you will be taking down?
  • Yes, but not very often. Those trees will mostly be for timber and my dads farm.
• What species of wood are you cutting?
  • Birch, spruce, pine, alder, rowan and aspen. At the farm it will be mostly pine and birch, and at my own home i will have to cut whatever I get hold of. The farm is 7,5 hours drive from where i live.
• If you are having logs delivered and, therefore, just bucking (and not limbing), what diameter are the logs?
  • I will do all work from felling, to limbing and bucking. And size is same as mentioned above.
• Do you buck your logs from a pile, or separately on the ground or on a landing?
  • I will buck in a pile on the ground most of the time.
• How many cords of wood per year do you cut?
  • I had to check some conversion table, in Norway we use litre as mesurement. I think for firewood (to myself) I will make around 3-4 cords. But in addition comes the felling (both for timber and firewood) at the farm. So maybe 7-8 cords is the total scope.
• Are you in good physical shape?
  • I'm a big guy, 6'4, bit on the heavy side, but I grew up on a farm, so I'm pretty durable.

Thanks for your awesome answer

Thanks for your answers. They really helps understand what you need. It sounds like you already had a good idea of what would work for you.
Since you are a big guy who grew up on the farm, and probably has access to tractors and trailers, then I say any saw you feel comfortable with using will be fine. I cut just about the same types of wood that you do and I would be happy with a 261, a 400 or a 500 (if I were you). Any one of those saws will fell the trees that you have. Since you have to drive 7.5 hours and cut just 3-4 cords for your father, and you are tall and big, a bigger saw with a couple of bars could do really good work for you. I would think that with driving distances like that, you want to get the work done as fast as possible. In terms of small wood, I cut limbs all the way down to 1.5 inches for my own firewood for kindling and for small fast fires (spring and fall fires to take the chill off of a morning). Since you are only going down to 4" wood, a saw that is bigger (60 CC) than a 261 might be better for a tall guy like you. I would not want to run a 261 with a 25" bar. The 261 is recommended to run a 16" bar. You might like a saw that can handle a 20 or 25" bar so you don't have to bend over so much.

I can talk metric too - I live in Canada. We sell wood by the metric ton, by the board foot, the cord and the cubic metre/litre - depending upon the species, the use and who we are selling to. Canada grows trees!

I really like my 400 cm with m-tronic ignition. It cuts fast. Because of that, I just bought some new Husqvarna faller's pants. They are really comfortable and have a good chance at handling a high revving saw if I do something stupid! The 400 runs so good that I consider it to be more like a 60CC saw than a 50CC saw.

 

[BeatCJ]

• What is the smallest diameter (limb or log) you cut for firewood?
  • You might laugh, but i tend to try to get the absolutely most out the trees, so i can go down to 4-5" sometimes.

I take anything bigger than my wrist when it's on my property. It's a lot of messing around, but I will be piling and burning the branches anyway.

The 400 runs so good that I consider it to be more like a 60CC saw than a 50CC saw.

Isn't the 400-CM a 66 cc saw? I think you are saying it cuts better than it's class, though.

 

[cuttinstihl]

I’ll share that a longer bar is a great help for taller guys. I’m 6’0-6’1 and a 24” bar on a 60cc is my preferred firewood saw. I say go with the 400 for your use

 

[cuttinstihl]

I take anything bigger than my wrist when it's on my property. It's a lot of messing around, but I will be piling and burning the branches anyway.


Isn't the 400-CM a 66 cc saw? I think you are saying it cuts better than its class, though.

67cc. It’s a great saw. I only ran one for a few minutes but it’s a hair stronger than my muffler modded Echo 620, lighter too

 

[chainbrake]

Yes, I meant that it acts more like a 70 cc saw than a 60.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

The 400 weighs 12.8 # and puts out 5.4 Hp. The 500i weighs 13.9# and puts out 6.7 Hp. So, for 1.1 lb or 8.5% more powerhead weight, you get 24% more power.

Also consider the additonal weight of a bigger saw using a taller bar and more chain because weight 20"+ away from you is different than close to you; hold a 12# blowing ball at arms length and you get the idea real fast. Bigger saws also carry more gas/oil, that weighs more too. The all-up weight is what a person should consider.

The MS400 and 500i are faster in small wood than other saws of about the same size because they have an RPM advantage (due to the light magnesium piston on the 400, fuel injection on the 500), so it's not only torque that affects cut speed in smaller wood. I run a 25" bar on an MS400 so I don't have to bend over as much--not because I'm cutting 25" wood, and the saw handles it just fine.

 

[gerrywoodsy482]

Hi guys,

I'm new, live in Norway.

I have an electric Stiga CS700 and it has been working well, but lately I have been looking into having a two saw plan for the bigger trees. I cut my own firewood and help my dad at the farm.

In general we do not have big trees, so I think a 20" light bar is my choice. I started looking at Husqvarna 562/572, but after realising how much lighter the Stihl saws are, I'm leaning more and more towards them. Started looking at a 400, but they are kind of expensive and it only cosy 150-200 dollars more for a 462. Then I found some amazing offers on 500i and that again is only 200 dollars more.

The absolutely most important thing for me, is that I want a saw that last. I somehow think the simple 400/462 will last longer. Does that make sense?

I will mostly stick to 20" bar, is there any benefit at all for a 500i over 462?

I don't want to end up in a situation we're I'm thinking "what if?"

Thanks for reading and I'm eagerly waiting for the responses.

The 400/462 might lack the flashy features of the 500i, but in the game of longevity, I'd choose it any day.

 

[Valpen]

Hey, Sorry for late answer. Was out sick.

Glad to hear you are feeling better.
I just noticed that you are in Norway. And lucky for you, they still sell the Stihl MS241 here.
IMO the only reason to by a bigger saw is to cut larger trees and/or more quickly. The 12"-18" trees you mention are not that large...
If you are not in a hurry and/or being paid by the cord/job, you might consider enjoying your sawing time (some with your father) and being in the outdoors while producing "heating fuel".
The MS241 is a saw that you can enjoy using, it can handle a 20" blade (it is a narrower bar/chain so it removes less wood-width per cut), is light weight (so your father might steal it), nicely balanced and is of professional quality (so it should last you a life-time).
It is not cheap, but it would be the saw of my choice (with 18" bar) to fulfill the tasks you described above.

I am not sure what saw your father uses, but you may find a way to have his saw complement your new MS241 with the 18" 3/8picco B&C.

 

[BeatCJ]

I have (and love) my 024. But for his stated desire to run a 20" bar and occasional oversized wood, the MS241 is underpowered. The MS261 is pretty much borderline, and with him wanting more power, the 241 doesn't fit his desires. As I read the entire thread, I suspect he is talked into a 400.

 

[Valpen]

I have (and love) my 024. But for his stated desire to run a 20" bar and occasional oversized wood, the MS241 is underpowered. The MS261 is pretty much borderline, and with him wanting more power, the 241 doesn't fit his desires. As I read the entire thread, I suspect he is talked into a 400.

I would be interested in hearing if anyone has any experience to share comparing the performance of a MS241 with 18" 3/8picco against a MS261 with 18" .325 setup.

 

[fields_mj]

I would be interested in hearing if anyone has any experience to share comparing the performance of a MS241 with 18" 3/8picco against a MS261 with 18" .325 setup.

I have an 024 and an 026, but the only thing I've run with pico chain is my pole saw. Regardless, the 241 doesn't really compare to the 261. There's just under a pound difference between them and the MS261 has almost 50% more hp. The MS241 doesn't really compare. It might out cut the electric saw he's currently using, but not by a wide enough margin to justify the expense. Don't get me wrong, the 241 is a nice, light weight saw that's easy to run, but even for just 3 cords per year, its slow. It will certainly cut through a 20" log, but its slow enough to make you feel like you might have wasted the money if you were hoping for a work horse.

 

[gggGary]

Just made first cuts with the 261C, 20" .325 bar and factory green chain.
Dropped a 12" DBH cherry, dead for a year.
Yeah it's new and a green chain but first impression this would be about the max, cutting for a couple hours, wood size for the 261.
Handles it well but not hard to bog it in the cut either.
Dealer will swap one green chain for a yellow when he gets restock.
Will need a few tanks of gas through it for a true report.
Just a bit stronger lighter smoother than the 028 18" it replaced.

 

[GrinJe]

I am not sure what saw your father uses, but you may find a way to have his saw complement your new MS241 with the 18" 3/8picco B&C.

He recently got a very cheap Husqvarna 445 E Mark 2 on the used marked, i think he payed like 300 dollars for it.

 

[GrinJe]

You guys, giving me so much input and experiences, deserve a feedback on my decision.

Little story:
I tend to enjoy going with my son to different shops, especially the shops more towards farms, since i come from a farm. Me and my son went to one of these shops last Saturday and we had a look at all their farm equipment including their saws. They had a pretty decent sales on the 500i, around 1500 dollars and i checked it out and compared the to the 261 and 400. The 400 and 500i felt very similar in weight and the balance was just better on the 500i. The 261 is of course much lighter. What it came down to was this simple thing: Everyone i see review or talk about 500i talk about how fun it is. I have enough money to cover the cost of a 500i and i really enjoy logging/making firewood. On top of this my son (3 yo) joined me and the dealer, smart as he was, told me i could have one of the kid toys saws (looks very much like a 500i) if i buy the 500i. So yeah, now I'm the proud owner of a 500i and i don't regret it at all.

Thanks again and i wish you the best.

 

[Pjohnson]

You guys, giving me so much input and experiences, deserve a feedback on my decision.

Little story:
I tend to enjoy going with my son to different shops, especially the shops more towards farms, since i come from a farm. Me and my son went to one of these shops last Saturday and we had a look at all their farm equipment including their saws. They had a pretty decent sales on the 500i, around 1500 dollars and i checked it out and compared the to the 261 and 400. The 400 and 500i felt very similar in weight and the balance was just better on the 500i. The 261 is of course much lighter. What it came down to was this simple thing: Everyone i see review or talk about 500i talk about how fun it is. I have enough money to cover the cost of a 500i and i really enjoy logging/making firewood. On top of this my son (3 yo) joined me and the dealer, smart as he was, told me i could have one of the kid toys saws (looks very much like a 500i) if i buy the 500i. So yeah, now I'm the proud owner of a 500i and i don't regret it at all.

Thanks again and i wish you the best.

Welcome to the 500i club it's a fun saw to cut with.

 

[Andrew15]

Hi guys,

I'm new, live in Norway.

I have an electric Stiga CS700 and it has been working well, but lately I have been looking into having a two saw plan for the bigger trees. I cut my own firewood and help my dad at the farm.

In general we do not have big trees, so I think a 20" light bar is my choice. I started looking at Husqvarna 562/572, but after realising how much lighter the Stihl saws are, I'm leaning more and more towards them. Started looking at a 400, but they are kind of expensive and it only cosy 150-200 dollars more for a 462. Then I found some amazing offers on 500i and that again is only 200 dollars more.

The absolutely most important thing for me, is that I want a saw that last. I somehow think the simple 400/462 will last longer. Does that make sense?

I will mostly stick to 20" bar, is there any benefit at all for a 500i over 462?

I don't want to end up in a situation we're I'm thinking "what if?"

Thanks for reading and I'm eagerly waiting for the responses.

The 500i seems to be a great chainsaw but its a 80 cc one and you might end up getting more saw than you actually need. A mid range saw should do you good. We're talking saws like the MS 261, 400C and 462.. or you might even consider the 362 but i have one and i think you should go to either a 400 or 462 if you have the budget.. The 362 is quite heavy and is a little underpowered with a 20 inch bars so the 400C or the 462 should fit your needs the best. Again, the 500i is a big saw pushing 80cc and is also very expensive.. you said you want to stick with 20 inch bars so id say the 462 should fit you the best but consult with your stihl dealer i think your options should be: Stihl MS 261, MS 400C or the 462. Hope i helped.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Just made first cuts with the 261C, 20" .325 bar and factory green chain.
Dropped a 12" DBH cherry, dead for a year.
Yeah it's new and a green chain but first impression this would be about the max, cutting for a couple hours, wood size for the 261.
Handles it well but not hard to bog it in the cut either.
Dealer will swap one green chain for a yellow when he gets restock.
Will need a few tanks of gas through it for a true report.
Just a bit stronger lighter smoother than the 028 18" it replaced.

You can slowly rock the saw to take smaller cuts with only part of the bar.
NOTE: This will NOT work with "SAFETY" OR "BUMPER" OR "REDUCED KICKBACK" CHAIN. (the nose needs to be able to cut into the wood, reduced kickback chain has bumpers that push the nose out of the wood in this instance. If using STIHL chain the green chain does not work, the yellow does.

There is also semi-skip chain and full-skip chain with fewer cutters allowing for use of longer bars as the powerhead does less work pulling fewer cutters.

Slower chain and less depth gauge depth also allow pulling a longer bar.

The thing I do is use sharp chain and rock the saw as if dogging in to really big wood with a big saw (which for the size of the saw is what you're doing), control cut speed keeping it reasonable, and pull the saw out of the cut often to cool the engine and cool the bar with bar oil (the oiler pumps oil when the chain is spinning). Even a tiny saw can do a big job if care is taken. (If you watch "Buckin' Billy Ray" on YouTube when he's running an old McCullough in big wood you'll see what I mean.)

This is a HOMELITE saw used the same way: