I need a larger chainsaw

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I'll be the first to admit it.. I'm not all that and a slice of bread when it comes to saws. I've cut for money, I've cut for my own uses, but I've always thought that you shouldn't have to push the saw through the cut. Pushing the saw blade ( IMHO ) , just taxes the bar, and means that the saw chain isn't properly sharpened, or, that the rakers ( depth gauges) are off. You'll have to dress the bar, and there's a loss of productivity.
. I have sharpened literally, a thousand saw chains, and I've always told my crew, "If you have to push it, it's done". Gimme the damn thing and let me make it right. ( they climb and slave, I manage and supervise). I had a Poulan ( it belonged to a home owner) that wouldn't do anything but spit dust. ( he was "helping" on the job).. I gave him one of my chains, and it wouldn't cut.. it just stalled in the cut if you didn't lift it a bit. It cut fine in the Echo I took it off of. So, too much depth, not enough power.
I can't imagine having to push a saw blade into the cut.. Sure.. maybe rock it back and forth a bit.. But Push?? Never..

But still, the Stihls (old school), just have that old school grunt, that makes them different to use than other saws. I usually set them so that they will run for about 30 seconds, before they start to load up, but, that makes them come on so much harder when you hit the throttle. The Echos' won't be happy with that kind of carb setting. They'll start to load up, but then just die when you hit he throttle, unless you free rev them first.
I'm gonna have to look into the philbert thing.. For sure. A chain can never be too sharp.
For my stock stuff, I've been using the Stihl 2 in 1 .. can't beat it for repeatable results.
 
They are standing up.
The definitions I read were: ripping was when the log was vertical and noodling was horizontal.
If you are ripping perpendicular to the grain, that's usually called milling. If you are ripping mostly parallel to the grain, that's noodling. Milling is very, very slow compared to noodling. Much faster to noodle. The more parallel you are to the grain, the longer the noodles will be regardless of how dry the wood is. If you're cutting through a knot, the grain won't be parallel to your chain, so you'll get some smaller chips. Long noodles tend to clog your ejection port which will bog the saw down. I try to keep the bar at a noticeable angle to keep the noodles a little shorter so they will clear out of my clutch cover easier.

If that doesn't explain what's going on, maybe post a short video of it happening.
 
We vary in size from tiny to close to 60". All pine mostly wind blow downs that we need to clear the trails. Or Caldor fire cleanup with hazard trees dropped for cleanup. I don't need big bars but life is short and hiking in on trails take time. Why not have some fun with the 500i w/ 36" bar. I love my 36" lightweight bar on the Stihl 500i to shorten the time clearing trees. I pick the saw for the trees and the work to be done. Some days it is the Kantanna boy or MS261 20" and goes up from there.
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We vary in size from tiny to close to 60". All pine mostly wind blow downs that we need to clear the trails. Or Caldor fire cleanup with hazard trees dropped for cleanup. I don't need big bars but life is short and hiking in on trails take time. Why not have some fun with the 500i w/ 36" bar. I love my 36" lightweight bar on the Stihl 500i to shorten the time clearing trees. I pick the saw for the trees and the work to be done. Some days it is the Kantanna boy or MS261 20" and goes up from there.
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You guys hiring?
 
You guys hiring?
@Breckinridge Elkins
Paul,
I'm a Sawyer - Crew Leader with the TRTA around Lake Tahoe. We are all volunteers that take care of the trail needs. No pay involved. I also volunteer with three other trail organizations. Let me know if you are interested volunteering on the trails around here.
 
@Breckinridge Elkins
Paul,
I'm a Sawyer - Crew Leader with the TRTA around Lake Tahoe. We are all volunteers that take care of the trail needs. No pay involved. I also volunteer with three other trail organizations. Let me know if you are interested volunteering on the trails around here.
Ah, sounds like a job for a retired guy.
 
Congrats on the 500. I'm curious how they work the fuel injection on them and what provides the power for the electronic control. I've used most of the Stihl lineup of the last 20 years at work. Myself I have a couple old Super XL Homelites and a Stihl 172. The saw that the guys used to fight over ironically was the Stihl Woodboss that we used for a landscape/ground saw. Back then people would say a 66 with chisel chain and a 25 inch bar was the firewood setup. I've come to realize over the years that the 66/661 whatever, are hard saws to beat. The 461 isn't nearly as fast and works you a bit more. It doesn't use the fuel but doesn't make the speed. Compared to my old saws though, any of them are hot rods. I don't have any experience with the 500 so I can't really say anything about that but for what I do on my own, over 1k for a saw is a lot to throw down.
 
I don't know I'm retired and don’t have enough time to get my own stuff done. I don't know where people find time to volunteer.
You're not the only one... Been retired for a couple of years, and I've never been busier. Landed up cancelling Netflix, 'cause I just never had time to watch it. I thought that retirement would have more naps, books, etc. Not a chance. LOL..
I don't cut much anymore, and I don't climb either, but, when word gets out that you can sharpen and fix small engines and chain saws... They keep knocking on your door.
 
You're not the only one... Been retired for a couple of years, and I've never been busier. Landed up cancelling Netflix, 'cause I just never had time to watch it. I thought that retirement would have more naps, books, etc. Not a chance. LOL..
I don't cut much anymore, and I don't climb either, but, when word gets out that you can sharpen and fix small engines and chain saws... They keep knocking on your door.
Retirement sucks I never get a day off or vacation from it.
 
I was reading this thread to see if I could find a saw that would make me want to come out of retirement. The 500i just might be the one. My old school Stihls are just too heavy for my old arms.. Not for a full day. I sold eight, and kept seven. There's enough money in the cutting kitty to get anything I want. I'm looking for fast and light. I should probably see if I can find a help group for this addiction.
 
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I think I would have simply moved the trail.

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3/8 chisel chain full skip tooth makes a world of difference but a 3/8 square ground chisel chain skip tooth will cut faster
 
Congrats on the 500. I'm curious how they work the fuel injection on them and what provides the power for the electronic control. I've used most of the Stihl lineup of the last 20 years at work. Myself I have a couple old Super XL Homelites and a Stihl 172. The saw that the guys used to fight over ironically was the Stihl Woodboss that we used for a landscape/ground saw. Back then people would say a 66 with chisel chain and a 25 inch bar was the firewood setup. I've come to realize over the years that the 66/661 whatever, are hard saws to beat. The 461 isn't nearly as fast and works you a bit more. It doesn't use the fuel but doesn't make the speed. Compared to my old saws though, any of them are hot rods. I don't have any experience with the 500 so I can't really say anything about that but for what I do on my own, over 1k for a saw is a lot to throw down.
The power for the microprocessor is generated by the saw once it starts. I think it must have a default air-fuel ratio to start, then gets optimized dynamically after starting. Yes, it is a lot of money. But it is fun! I was just cutting firewood over the weekend. I can cut about 0.8 cords on each tankful of fuel.
 
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