White Birch droop - borer problem? Can tree be saved?

[MzHopsing]

I just noticed the other day that one tree of the little grove of birches that we have in our front yard looked kind of droopy. Worse, the leaves up top are starting to curl over. A search this morning revealed a hole near the base of the tree (pix below), and I'm just heartbroken. The two other tallish birches seem to be leaning in the same direction, but there's no apparent insect damage. Hubby got a little too close with the weedwacker with one of the others, but the bark seems to be healing, and there's no hole like the one pictured below.

Can the damaged tree be saved? Is there some way to protect the other trees from this borer?

EDIT: I meant to add that we planted these trees maybe 6 or 7 years ago, I can't be certain.

 

[MzHopsing]

I'm more than a little surprised I haven't heard from anyone. You guys have been so helpful in the past!

Anyway, after doing some searching, I figured this might have to do with the alder and bronze birch borer (or maybe that zebra striped one also), so I ordered some Mauget Imicide on ebay, and will treat the remaining trees. (They're practically saplings really, but the larger ones have a girth of several inches) I'm not certain that treating the sick tree will help it at this point.

Does this sound reasonable to you all, or is there more that we can do here? Any suggestions would be very much appreciated!

Thank you for all you good folks do!

 

[TNTreeHugger]

Looks like weed eater, or lawn mower damage to me... especially since there appears to be scars from previous years.
After the last person to use a weed eater in my yard got too close to several trees, I decided NO MORE Weed eaters!
Of course, I'm guilty of bumping a tree or two with the mower.

 

[MzHopsing]

Thanks for the reply TNT! I considered that too, and maybe one of those wounds was where this borer decided to make an entry. Because that hole goes in a ways, farther than weed whacker damage would go.

(I find it amusing that one of the rare active chicks on the site is the one answering me... Would I get more replies, maybe, if there was more drama to my story or if I posted some thong pics?? )

 

[TNTreeHugger]

Thanks for the reply TNT! I considered that too, and maybe one of those wounds was where this borer decided to make an entry. Because that hole goes in a ways, farther than weed whacker damage would go.

(I find it amusing that one of the rare active chicks on the site is the one answering me... Would I get more replies, maybe, if there was more drama to my story or if I posted some thong pics?? )

It couldn't hurt!
No one has yet to reply to my very first thread posted, "Giant Holly Tree..." Go figure...

 

[BC WetCoast]

It looks like mechanical damage that hasn't calloused over yet. It could depend what time of year the damage was done. If it was done in early spring when the cambium cells are in max production, just hitting the back can break the cells and cause a scar under the bark.

Birches can get droopy, that is the foliage in the spring is too heavy for the branch to hold up.

I don't see any bronze birch borer holes, they are about the size of a pencil eraser and are D shaped.

 

[MzHopsing]

Thank you so much for the input, BC! The hubby says that he "picked at" that hole pictured there, but I'm not sure how much. You can kind of stick the tip of your finger into that recessed area (and it's kind of crumbly feeling), but it doesn't go back further than that, thank goodness. I did another examination of the lower trunk, and can't see anything amiss other than that.

At any rate, he hasn't run the weed whacker this spring around those trees, but whacking around the trees has been severely frowned upon by myself of late because of other tree damage, so other options will have to be considered.

Should we consider a fertilizer or something to help with tree health? Or am I worrying too much about this, maybe, and I should just leave them alone?

 

[TNTreeHugger]

Here's what I've been doing instead of weed-eating around the trees, and other objects, in the yard (2.5 acres)...
First, I dig up the top inch or so of grass around the tree, extending out about a foot out from the trunk. beat off dirt and toss grass. Then I work into the soil a bag of composted manure/humus and water well. Then I go around my yard and find lilies and hostas that need thinning and transplant them around the tree. No need to weed eat, just mow right up to the plants. if you get the grass and weeds out at first, you shouldn't have many to pull later.
I actually bought a weed eater several years ago, supposedly a light-weight one. Fifteen minutes after using it, I decided I would never use it again - it killed my arms!!

 

[ATH]

It could still be bronze birch borer (BBB) AND this minor damage at the base. I wouldn't worry about what is at the base. But the vast majority of European white birch around here are going to get BBB. that one is a little young for it, but a tree stressed from transplant a couple of years ago could have been enough to attract them to the tree. The D-shaped holes mentioned by @BC WetCoast would likely be higher in the tree for an early infestation.

 

[MzHopsing]

TNT: Oh yes, as far as planting things around the trees here to prevent mechanical damage, we've done that with several, but there are so many others... I suppose with time it'll get done. You can even see with this birch pictured, there are lilies to one side, but, of course, the damage is on the inner circle of the grove. <sigh>

Thanks for the reply ATH! I went and looked again yesterday at that "hole" and it doesn't go in as far as I first thought, but flattens out after that initial "crumbly" layer, so there's that at least. Though I did read that the borers only eat around that outer layer of bark, so I'm not sure what to think (or do). I don't know if I should go ahead and do a preventative injection to the more mature trees/saplings of this bunch or not, and back it up with some fertilizer? Logic tells me that it's not applicable in this situation, but the protective dog-mother-babying instinct tells me I should... heh.

 

[ATH]

Should you treat it preventatively? At some point, but maybe not now. Here is a 20 year study finding that BBB takes out almost all of the non-native birch trees: http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/her...in_birch_resistance_to_bronze_birch_borer.pdf I'd watch for signs first though before treating. If there were borers in it, you'd see exit holes. You'd also see larval galleries where the bark comes off.

Should you inject it? In my opinion, no. Soil drenches of imidacloprid work very well - especially with a pest that is not extremely fast. Emerald Ash Borer in a heave infestation, is probably worth injecting. If you are in an are (near water) where soil drenching will not work, trunk injections may be a good idea.

Should you fertilize? Does it need it? Do a soil test to find out it something is lacking. You can always throw a bunch of nitrogen on it...but that may not do much good, and can do harm...it makes the tree tastier to bugs!

 

[MzHopsing]

Gah... That study is alarming. It's always belatedly that I do searches to find out whether what I'm planting is native to our area, it seems like. I've "gone native" (ha ha) as much as I can in the last couple of years with plants good for bees, butterflies and birds, but it turns out that these birches are found much more often in the northern part of IL, while I'm in the central part of the state. It could be worse, I guess; at least I'm not in Arkansas or somewhere further south. (nothing against you Arkansans!)

I've got a PH tester, so I'll check the soil like you suggest. These trees are planted over to one side of our septic field, and there is our smallish pond nearby, but I think a soil drench would take, if necessary at some point. The pond is probably 75-100 feet away or so.

Anyway, it's hopefully like BC WetCoast says, and that the tree is just getting big enough that it's starting to droop from the weight of the vegetation. They're so tall and slim, so I can totally see that.

Thank you guys so much for coming through for me, and for the reassurance too! Have a great week!!

P.S. The ol' man and I went and picked up a barely used MS290 on Friday from a guy on Craigslist. He even threw in 5 extra chains, and one was brand new! All for $250, even! I think we did pretty good, and I got some kudos because I was the one to find it.

 

[TNTreeHugger]

Gah... That study is alarming. It's always belatedly that I do searches to find out whether what I'm planting is native to our area, it seems like. I've "gone native" (ha ha) as much as I can in the last couple of years with plants good for bees, butterflies and birds, but it turns out that these birches are found much more often in the northern part of IL, while I'm in the central part of the state. It could be worse, I guess; at least I'm not in Arkansas or somewhere further south. (nothing against you Arkansans!)

I've got a PH tester, so I'll check the soil like you suggest. These trees are planted over to one side of our septic field, and there is our smallish pond nearby, but I think a soil drench would take, if necessary at some point. The pond is probably 75-100 feet away or so.

Anyway, it's hopefully like BC WetCoast says, and that the tree is just getting big enough that it's starting to droop from the weight of the vegetation. They're so tall and slim, so I can totally see that.

Thank you guys so much for coming through for me, and for the reassurance too! Have a great week!!

P.S. The ol' man and I went and picked up a barely used MS290 on Friday from a guy on Craigslist. He even threw in 5 extra chains, and one was brand new! All for $250, even! I think we did pretty good, and I got some kudos because I was the one to find it.

Good find!
Will you be using the chain saw?

 

[MzHopsing]

Only occasionally, if at all... and maybe not for a long time, I think! He's so elated with the find I think I'm going to have to watch closely he doesn't go gangbusters out on our back 40...

 

[ATH]

Gah... That study is alarming. It's always belatedly that I do searches to find out whether what I'm planting is native to our area, it seems like. I've "gone native" (ha ha) as much as I can in the last couple of years with plants good for bees, butterflies and birds, but it turns out that these birches are found much more often in the northern part of IL, while I'm in the central part of the state. It could be worse, I guess; at least I'm not in Arkansas or somewhere further south. (nothing against you Arkansans!)

[/url]
A) Do you know what species of birch that is? The native species are generally not that white.
B) I am a fan of native plants. I am a fan of healthy honey bee populations. But planting native plants for purpose of serving a non-native insect might seem like mixed reasoning to some
C) At least I'm not in Arkansas either

I've got a PH tester, so I'll check the soil like you suggest. These trees are planted over to one side of our septic field, and there is our smallish pond nearby, but I think a soil drench would take, if necessary at some point. The pond is probably 75-100 feet away or so.

D) pH is ONE important factor....but you want to know about nutrients as well.
E) Imidacloprid doesn't move much as it isn't that water soluble. That is a good distance for as little as you'd use for these trees.

Anyway, it's hopefully like BC WetCoast says, and that the tree is just getting big enough that it's starting to droop from the weight of the vegetation. They're so tall and slim, so I can totally see that.

I'd guess that is the case...but wanted to make sure you don't rule out BBB based on what you are seeing at the base

...
P.S. The ol' man and I went and picked up a barely used MS290 on Friday from a guy on Craigslist. He even threw in 5 extra chains, and one was brand new! All for $250, even! I think we did pretty good, and I got some kudos because I was the one to find it.

Good deal! Now you can make that a single stem birch so it is stronger in the long-term[/QUOTE]

 

[BC WetCoast]

Others may have seen it, but I haven't seen BBB kill a birch. I've seen it kill the tops, and then we have to take out the dead wood (the deadwood rots quickly and becomes hazardous quickly). You end up with an ugly tree, but I've never seen one die from it.

 

[ATH]

I have...different climates.

 

[MzHopsing]

Wow, I don't know where I went to, but I completely zoned out and forgot to come back and check this thread... heh.

Well, I have to say I have absolutely no idea what kind of birch or alder any of them are. We got the trees through some discount shop a bit north of us, and it's been some years now, so we just don't know. The droopy one in the pics above, I'll note, is the only one that ever has those dangly seed pod things, and interestingly, it's also has smaller leaves than the others.

As to my newish 'native planting' thing, these birches were before I really went in that direction. So really, these birches were not planted with any thought to whom (insect or bird or whatever) they might be benefiting. Since, technically, they're more native to the north of IL, several hundred miles from here, if they don't make it, well, then maybe they weren't meant to. Everything else I've been planting in the last year or two I've tried to do some research on to make sure it'll work well here, though.

Speaking of which, I just acquired some sassafras... (new thread coming)

One of those last things you said at the end there, ATH, when I mentioned the new chainsaw, you said I could make it a single stem birch. There's, like, 5 birches down there in that group and all of them are just plain saplings with branches. But looking at that pic with the birdfeeder in it, I think I know what you're talking about now. Should that left "branch" be taken off on that tree? Would it help it to grow straighter?

Thanks again for all your help and input!!

 

[ropensaddle]

[/url]
A) Do you know what species of birch that is? The native species are generally not that white.
B) I am a fan of native plants. I am a fan of healthy honey bee populations. But planting native plants for purpose of serving a non-native insect might seem like mixed reasoning to some
C) At least I'm not in Arkansas either


D) pH is ONE important factor....but you want to know about nutrients as well.
E) Imidacloprid doesn't move much as it isn't that water soluble. That is a good distance for as little as you'd use for these trees.


I'd guess that is the case...but wanted to make sure you don't rule out BBB based on what you are seeing at the base


Good deal! Now you can make that a single stem birch so it is stronger in the long-term

[/QUOTE]
Ahhem Ahem now just whats so bad bout Arkansas