your probably going to run an average of 3 hours labor to rebuild most saws assuming they arent totally filthy. add in the bits and pieces and the price can easily reach $500-600 using all OEM parts
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For the most part I agree.I'll just say it like it is, Those saws are worth way more as parts then they are to sell whole as re-builders.
I have been through these models before and they are not cheap to rebuild, no parts for them are inexpensive. They also take time to rebuild from the bare cases up.
I have not checked prices on these lately but from what I done a couple years back, a OEM P/C, bearings, gaskets, etc, etc, etc could come up to $4-$500 in parts alone at retail prices. What do you think someone would charge for labor? I know the minimum I would charge and it would make most stop and think about rebuilding one.
That said, I am only interested because I have yet to run a 576XP and the curiosity to see how they run compared to the 575XP I had is not enough to make me want to pay the going rate for a runner. Besides the fact that these are non Autotune which appeals to me.
So to me those are $50 a piece saws. Like I said, if you wanted to go through the trouble to part them out, you would make lots, lots more.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/575-husky-crankshaft-bearings.305218/page-3Those 575,576 saws have a Husqvarna only clutch side bearing and seal and it is not cheap. Agree any of those saws should have $75 added to them just for clean up.
For the most part I agree.
Seems a little high on the parts alone price, but I've never priced them before, and you did say at retail . I know why I don't rebuild anything that wasn't just straight gassed, not being set up to do it I would rather cash out and move on, I've surely thought about it
I think the 576 is a different animal having owned both the 575 and the 576, although I haven't owned the standard carb 576 only the autotune version. Both are very smooth saws, to the point of feeling slow, have to be careful in softwood with the 576 set up with a 20 as it will drop thru the bottom bucking and you don't feel like it's even hit the wood if your not paying attention. It's a great saw for those who have problems with the vibration, the 441 is another one that is very smooth, but the husky is smoother and a bit more cutting power.
I understand the 50 a piece to you as you never know what your getting into, first it needs just a piston, then there ends up being pitting/scoring on the cylinder, oh whoops the crank bearings are bad too . But that being said many guys will take a chance on them and pay a good bit more as they either already have parts for them laying around or just want to have less cash outlay and don't end a little work.
Also I believe as you said they are worth more in parts many times than whole, I'd never want to try to build a saw from bottom up buying individual parts .
You know I get that, that's why I don't do anything with them .If I'm buying, I error on the side of caution for me, not the seller. I may be a bit high on parts, maybe not though. If the P/C is still at $300+ then just adding bearings, seals and gaskets put you at $400. Now what is it if you need a sprocket/drum, bearing, carb/carb kit, intake? What happens when you find the bearing has spun in the case?
Cracked covers, muffler bolts missing, and unlike maybe some others, my time is not free, so if someone else want's to pay more then $50 then rock on.
Does that stop them from spinning, have you ever had a bearing go to test that. I'm not doubting, but trying to learn .I would rebuild one for free, if it was given to me. See many missing parts, but the big problem is whats missing or damaged under the covers. Would want to give them a serious close up look before rebuilding. Rebuilt saws looking like those and have lost money, not a good business plan. Use sleeve retainer to stop those bearings from spinning in it's case. .
This thread was destine to be high jacked from the beginning, wrong place to post it, so have at it.View attachment 599051 View attachment 599052 575 cylinder with a little sanding by hand. Still some residue but overall feels pretty smooth. What do you all think? Salvageable? Sorry if this is considered a high jack of the thread!
Looks like you have more transfer to remove.View attachment 599051 View attachment 599052 575 cylinder with a little sanding by hand. Still some residue but overall feels pretty smooth. What do you all think? Salvageable? Sorry if this is considered a high jack of the thread!
most likely transfer covers leaking. scoring will be heavier toward the air leak. you should be pressure/vac testing these saws before tear down....its worth it to save work later and have a better understanding of why they failed in the first placeView attachment 599185 View attachment 599186 View attachment 599187 View attachment 599189 562 piston is scored on the sides and not on the exhaust side. As I said before, I know little of tearing down a saw and diagnosis of problems. Why is this on the sides and do you guys think this cylinder can be saved?
Thanks for the input and advice. Learn a little everyday.most likely transfer covers leaking. scoring will be heavier toward the air leak. you should be pressure/vac testing these saws before tear down....its worth it to save work later and have a better understanding of why they failed in the first place
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