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Want to Buy Who rebuilds chainsaws at reasonable prices?

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your probably going to run an average of 3 hours labor to rebuild most saws assuming they arent totally filthy. add in the bits and pieces and the price can easily reach $500-600 using all OEM parts
 
I'll just say it like it is, Those saws are worth way more as parts then they are to sell whole as re-builders.

I have been through these models before and they are not cheap to rebuild, no parts for them are inexpensive. They also take time to rebuild from the bare cases up.

I have not checked prices on these lately but from what I done a couple years back, a OEM P/C, bearings, gaskets, etc, etc, etc could come up to $4-$500 in parts alone at retail prices. What do you think someone would charge for labor? I know the minimum I would charge and it would make most stop and think about rebuilding one.

That said, I am only interested because I have yet to run a 576XP and the curiosity to see how they run compared to the 575XP I had is not enough to make me want to pay the going rate for a runner. Besides the fact that these are non Autotune which appeals to me.

So to me those are $50 a piece saws. Like I said, if you wanted to go through the trouble to part them out, you would make lots, lots more.
For the most part I agree.
Seems a little high on the parts alone price, but I've never priced them before, and you did say at retail :eek:. I know why I don't rebuild anything that wasn't just straight gassed, not being set up to do it I would rather cash out and move on, I've surely thought about it :)
I think the 576 is a different animal having owned both the 575 and the 576, although I haven't owned the standard carb 576 only the autotune version. Both are very smooth saws, to the point of feeling slow, have to be careful in softwood with the 576 set up with a 20 as it will drop thru the bottom bucking and you don't feel like it's even hit the wood if your not paying attention. It's a great saw for those who have problems with the vibration, the 441 is another one that is very smooth, but the husky is smoother and a bit more cutting power.
I understand the 50 a piece to you as you never know what your getting into, first it needs just a piston, then there ends up being pitting/scoring on the cylinder, oh whoops the crank bearings are bad too :omg:. But that being said many guys will take a chance on them and pay a good bit more as they either already have parts for them laying around or just want to have less cash outlay and don't end a little work.
Also I believe as you said they are worth more in parts many times than whole, I'd never want to try to build a saw from bottom up buying individual parts :envy:.
 
Those 575,576 saws have a Husqvarna only clutch side bearing and seal and it is not cheap. Agree any of those saws should have $75 added to them just for clean up.
 
For the most part I agree.
Seems a little high on the parts alone price, but I've never priced them before, and you did say at retail :eek:. I know why I don't rebuild anything that wasn't just straight gassed, not being set up to do it I would rather cash out and move on, I've surely thought about it :)
I think the 576 is a different animal having owned both the 575 and the 576, although I haven't owned the standard carb 576 only the autotune version. Both are very smooth saws, to the point of feeling slow, have to be careful in softwood with the 576 set up with a 20 as it will drop thru the bottom bucking and you don't feel like it's even hit the wood if your not paying attention. It's a great saw for those who have problems with the vibration, the 441 is another one that is very smooth, but the husky is smoother and a bit more cutting power.
I understand the 50 a piece to you as you never know what your getting into, first it needs just a piston, then there ends up being pitting/scoring on the cylinder, oh whoops the crank bearings are bad too :omg:. But that being said many guys will take a chance on them and pay a good bit more as they either already have parts for them laying around or just want to have less cash outlay and don't end a little work.
Also I believe as you said they are worth more in parts many times than whole, I'd never want to try to build a saw from bottom up buying individual parts :envy:.

If I'm buying, I error on the side of caution for me, not the seller. I may be a bit high on parts, maybe not though. If the P/C is still at $300+ then just adding bearings, seals and gaskets put you at $400. Now what is it if you need a sprocket/drum, bearing, carb/carb kit, intake? What happens when you find the bearing has spun in the case?

Cracked covers, muffler bolts missing, and unlike maybe some others, my time is not free, so if someone else want's to pay more then $50 then rock on. :rock:
 
If I'm buying, I error on the side of caution for me, not the seller. I may be a bit high on parts, maybe not though. If the P/C is still at $300+ then just adding bearings, seals and gaskets put you at $400. Now what is it if you need a sprocket/drum, bearing, carb/carb kit, intake? What happens when you find the bearing has spun in the case?

Cracked covers, muffler bolts missing, and unlike maybe some others, my time is not free, so if someone else want's to pay more then $50 then rock on. :rock:
You know I get that, that's why I don't do anything with them :).
 
I would rebuild one for free, if it was given to me. See many missing parts, but the big problem is whats missing or damaged under the covers. Would want to give them a serious close up look before rebuilding. Rebuilt saws looking like those and have lost money, not a good business plan. Use sleeve retainer to stop those bearings from spinning in it's case. .
 
I would rebuild one for free, if it was given to me. See many missing parts, but the big problem is whats missing or damaged under the covers. Would want to give them a serious close up look before rebuilding. Rebuilt saws looking like those and have lost money, not a good business plan. Use sleeve retainer to stop those bearings from spinning in it's case. .
Does that stop them from spinning, have you ever had a bearing go to test that. I'm not doubting, but trying to learn :).
 
Yes it does. Permatex High Temperature Sleeve Retainer. Used it on three 576's with spun bearings, one was a friend with tree service and if he had a problem with it, I would know.
 
I would sell them on Ebay as parts or repairable. It's kind of ridiculous the amount broken saws bring over there. Once you unload them, come back on here and buy a good used saw in the Tradin Post.
 
If I like a saw I keep it because I understand it. Or just buy a brand new saw and run it hard. A pro built saw will never equal a brand new saw. My saws have not often let me down, but if I built a saw for some one I would charge at least $1000 labor so just buy a new saw or do it your self. Thanks
 
20170830_145135.jpg 20170830_145124.jpg 575 cylinder with a little sanding by hand. Still some residue but overall feels pretty smooth. What do you all think? Salvageable? Sorry if this is considered a high jack of the thread!
 
View attachment 599051 View attachment 599052 575 cylinder with a little sanding by hand. Still some residue but overall feels pretty smooth. What do you all think? Salvageable? Sorry if this is considered a high jack of the thread!
This thread was destine to be high jacked from the beginning, wrong place to post it, so have at it.
I can't see the pictures well enough on my phone someone will be along soon enough though.
I will say that a scored cylinder on a 575 is the least of concerns, you better look at the seals and bearings for the cause of the issue as the cylinder is only the effects of another problem.
Good luck with it Shanson.
Brett
 
Saws belonged to a tree guy that just ran them until they didn't run anymore. Not a lot of maintenance and the limiters were still on all the saws. He goes through the help so everybody and their brother runs them hard. Two of the 576s look like they ingested something (probably bearings) but one of them and this 575 just look scored. the 575 is the only one I tore apart.
 
20170831_134427.jpg 20170831_134407.jpg 20170831_134318.jpg 20170831_134237.jpg 562 piston is scored on the sides and not on the exhaust side. As I said before, I know little of tearing down a saw and diagnosis of problems. Why is this on the sides and do you guys think this cylinder can be saved?
 
View attachment 599185 View attachment 599186 View attachment 599187 View attachment 599189 562 piston is scored on the sides and not on the exhaust side. As I said before, I know little of tearing down a saw and diagnosis of problems. Why is this on the sides and do you guys think this cylinder can be saved?
most likely transfer covers leaking. scoring will be heavier toward the air leak. you should be pressure/vac testing these saws before tear down....its worth it to save work later and have a better understanding of why they failed in the first place
 
most likely transfer covers leaking. scoring will be heavier toward the air leak. you should be pressure/vac testing these saws before tear down....its worth it to save work later and have a better understanding of why they failed in the first place
Thanks for the input and advice. Learn a little everyday.
 
So there is a good chance the bottom end is probably not the problem!? Would be nice if I could clean the cylinder, replace transfer gaskets and new piston.
 
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