Will cutting root kill a maple?

[kr14]

I have a beautiful maple tree in my back yard. (I estimate it to be 40-50 years old.) I am considering building a garage on my property and because of how my property is laid out, the garage would end up being 7 feet from the base of the maple. Also, due to the slope of the yard, the garage foundation would be frost walls, which means that I will have to dig 4 feet deep trenches in order to build the foundation. I know that one of the main roots of the maple runs in the path of one of these frost walls, although I do not know how deep beneath the ground the root is.
My questions are:
#1 - If a root of the tree has to be cut in order to build the foundation, would it kill the tree?
#2 - If it wouldn't kill the tree, is there something that can be put on the root that would keep it from regrowing and damaging the foundation of the garage?

Thanks for any advice!

 

[JeffL]

Dig the root by hand a foot or so back from where excavation will be. The less you cut the better. Make a clean cut on the root with a handsaw/chainsaw you dont care much for. If you can prune it back to a lateral root, thats the way to go. You'd rather have a clean cut on the root that will heal itself over, rather than leaving it to the machine operator to rip the root off, leaving ragged edges and peeled fibers and leaving it that much more susceptible to rot/disease. We do it routinely with our airspade for roadside work/excavation. I've cut multiple 5-6" diameter roots 5 feet out from the trunk on a mature sugar maple, and almost 2 years later there is no noticeable dieback in the crown, but thats not to say the structure of the root system hasnt been compromised.

But again, its better to make a clean cut than leave a ragged, torn off root if no other option is available!

 

[treemandan]

I would think if its not to hot and dry you could hack off a good portion of a maple limb with no detriment. I'd use an axe. If you are really gonna lay into it though I wouldn't

 

[ct greenman]

Dig the root by hand a foot or so back from where excavation will be. The less you cut the better. Make a clean cut on the root with a handsaw/chainsaw you dont care much for. If you can prune it back to a lateral root, thats the way to go. You'd rather have a clean cut on the root that will heal itself over, rather than leaving it to the machine operator to rip the root off, leaving ragged edges and peeled fibers and leaving it that much more susceptible to rot/disease. We do it routinely with our airspade for roadside work/excavation. I've cut multiple 5-6" diameter roots 5 feet out from the trunk on a mature sugar maple, and almost 2 years later there is no noticeable dieback in the crown, but thats not to say the structure of the root system hasnt been compromised.

But again, its better to make a clean cut than leave a ragged, torn off root if no other option is available!

:agree2: We also use reciprocating saw (sawzall) to cut roots when construction must be done.

 

[treeseer]

:agree2: We also use reciprocating saw (sawzall) to cut roots when construction must be done.

:agree2: generally, but it depends. post pics if you want more reliable advice.

 

[JeffL]

We have a fleet of old Stihl 011av's with chains on them that arent any good for the climbing saws anymore, you can usually get 2-3 cuts on them on some big roots before they are totally smoked.

 

[Jkebxjunke]

I am not a pro or anything.. but I would put this out to the pros... back to the OP ... If you cut a few roots off... and you were really concerned about the tree... would it be advisable to try to help the tree by maybe feeding it on the opposite side and if it being a dry year help it by giving it some water? would that be a good idea? and maybe repeating the practice next year (feeding at least) to encourage new root growth away from the garage?

 

[Macclay]

1. No
2. how much $ have you got?