Will Cutting Up The Roots Harm The Tree?

[johnoberg]

I live in a "manufactured home park" (trailer park) in southeast Michigan. We have a pretty large maple tree (unsure of the exact kind--I'm no expert) in our yard and a portion of the roots have become exposed above ground. I would say a portion of the roots about 3 inches wide by 12 inches long by 5 inches tall have been exposed directly under the skirting of our neighbor's trailer. This is causing the skirting to be lifted by 4-5 inches.

This seems to bother him (although, personally, I see no harm in this) to the point where he wants to take some kind of sharp-edged tool and cut it up so it isn't affecting his skirting.

Unsure of how we can prevent him from doing this, I would like to know if this will cause much harm to the tree. Perhaps he'll listen if I can relay some useful information to him.

I have searched the forums and found similar posts but not quite like this. If you could please help out ASAP, it would be great because the neighbor plans on doing this in the next few days.

Thanks

John
[email protected]
(586) 222-5422 (if you find it necessary to contact me immediately regarding this)

 

[Kate Butler]

Over time, it will very likely kill the tree. The bigger it is, the more likely it is to be badly damaged. Cuts interfere with the trees' ability to manufacture food and store it in the leaves. A large surface would like that may eventually heal, but in the interim, it will be a vector for disease, bacteria and/or fungus.

Yes, the larger canopy on a large tree is capable of more photosynthesis, but the balance of root and canopy will be disrupted/damaged by this chopping of roots. Also, if roots grow aboveground, the tree has reasons for doing this (like, oxygenation in damp soil).

 

[computeruser]

He can trim his skirting. Problem solved.

This might be a point worth bringing to the attention of the park management, since (I presume) they own the tree and he rents the lot...

 

[wavefreak]

This is not good.

So I probably killed my maple tree. We dug a trench for a block wall foundation and had to cut a lot of two to three inch roots. I was ignorant. Though I'm not sure how else to have done it. Redesign the addition? It's a medium sized maple (24-24") and about 20 feet from the house, less than 5 from the new addition. Crap. I'm no tree hugger but I hate taking down trees needlessly. It's already showing sign of distress. Lots of dead spots. Probably did it in.

Wish I had found this website earlier.

 

[S Mc]

John, How far away from the trunk is the root where your neighbor is planning on cutting? Is this only one root involved or several? Is he planning on taking it out entirely or skimming off the top?

Maples are listed as intermediate to tolerant in their ability to withstand root pruning. The further from the trunk of the tree the better. The smaller the root, the better. Trees can withstand the severing of single roots generally pretty well, if they do not affect the stability of the tree.

Wavefreak, please start your own thread with pictures and let's see what is going on with your tree.

Sylvia

 

[wavefreak]

My camera is on vacation in Hawaii with my son and his bride. When it comes home I'll post some pics.

 

[treeseer]

I prune maple roots all the time, but a low % of the total rootzone, best done in late summer, clean cuts, do other work to invigorate the tree, etc.

 

[ropensaddle]

Over time, it will very likely kill the tree. The bigger it is, the more likely it is to be badly damaged. Cuts interfere with the trees' ability to manufacture food and store it in the leaves. A large surface would like that may eventually heal, but in the interim, it will be a vector for disease, bacteria and/or fungus.

Yes, the larger canopy on a large tree is capable of more photosynthesis, but the balance of root and canopy will be disrupted/damaged by this chopping of roots. Also, if roots grow aboveground, the tree has reasons for doing this (like, oxygenation in damp soil).

Kate I thought roots took up water and minerals and are support and storage and the older xylem was more the storage in pyrancma cells and sieve tube elements. The leaves were the food makers in chloroplasts by using chlorophyll and sun to create sugar and starches for all functions of the plant. I would say pruning of roots could be performed depending on which roots buttress roots should be avoided for obvious reasons and I doubt the home owner would take necessary precautions to ensure healthy outcome.

 

[Kate Butler]

Kate I thought roots took up water and minerals and are support and storage and the older xylem was more the storage in pyrancma cells and sieve tube elements. The leaves were the food makers in chloroplasts by using chlorophyll and sun to create sugar and starches for all functions of the plant. I would say pruning of roots could be performed depending on which roots buttress roots should be avoided for obvious reasons and I doubt the home owner would take necessary precautions to ensure healthy outcome.

I'm sure you are right: I always thought that roots at least partially served a storage function to better enable any plant (tree, shrub, etc..) to better weather a winter by making whatever is stored available as soon as things thaw in warmer weather. I spend more of my time working with perennials and that's how they work.

 

[ropensaddle]

I'm sure you are right: I always thought that roots at least partially served a storage function to better enable any plant (tree, shrub, etc..) to better weather a winter by making whatever is stored available as soon as things thaw in warmer weather. I spend more of my time working with perennials and that's how they work.

Trees store it in the trunk and roots and rely on it for defense as well as to produce in the spring I am merely trying to keep abreast and may need to check if they store anything in the leaves as you were suggesting. I forget stuff all the time so was hoping to be enlightened without seven hours reading again

 

[Kate Butler]

Trees store it in the trunk and roots and rely on it for defense as well as to produce in the spring I am merely trying to keep abreast and may need to check if they store anything in the leaves as you were suggesting. I forget stuff all the time so was hoping to be enlightened without seven hours reading again

I know THAT feeling - still I'm always willing and happy to learn something new, so thanks.

 

[John D]

Im no arborsit,but ive been cutting back roots for 20 yrs now,and havent lost a single tree yet.Ive cut leaders as large as 6".The tree roots grow up to and under my putting greens and tees/aprons.They grow about 2-5 ft a yr sometimes.I always trim back the tree the yr in advance .The foloowing yr I cut the roots back with either a ditch witch,or backhoe,and chainsaw.I love trees,but if i let them,they.d rob all the water i put on my greens and ruin the putting surface with humps from roots.

 

[ropensaddle]

Im no arborsit,but ive been cutting back roots for 20 yrs now,and havent lost a single tree yet.Ive cut leaders as large as 6".The tree roots grow up to and under my putting greens and tees/aprons.They grow about 2-5 ft a yr sometimes.I always trim back the tree the yr in advance .The foloowing yr I cut the roots back with either a ditch witch,or backhoe,and chainsaw.I love trees,but if i let them,they.d rob all the water i put on my greens and ruin the putting surface with humps from roots.

Lol they probably are after not only your irrigation but you regularly aerate you greens too right?

 

[treeseer]

ive been cutting back roots for 20 yrs now,and havent lost a single tree yet. ...I always trim back the tree the yr in advance .The foloowing yr I cut the roots back

So the golf guy understands root/shoot ratio, and the seesaw effect, and does it right.

We prune branches all the time--why should we be so superstitious about cutting roots?? Healthy trees got plenty of both.

 

[John D]

Lol they probably are after not only your irrigation but you regularly aerate you greens too right?

Sure do,as well as top dress,and fert.They are after all of it! Most of them are huge oak,and cherry trees,with a few 90+ft locust near a few tees,I took those out though they were just too fast growing and invasive for the area.I try to trim the big oaks back so i dont have to kill them.I have access to a 40ft bucket,thats about as far up as I go.

 

[treeseer]

I try to trim the big oaks back so i dont have to kill them.I have access to a 40ft bucket,thats about as far up as I go.

Uh oh...

If you are cutting branches off the lower 40' and nothing above, you are increasing the risk that the tree will fall down.

Strongly recommend that the golf course manage the trees to reduce risk. This could also include installing lightning protection in key trees. Documenting positive steps to reduce risk may make a difference in the premium, and will definitely help if an accident happens.

 

[John D]

Uh oh...

If you are cutting branches off the lower 40' and nothing above, you are increasing the risk that the tree will fall down.

Strongly recommend that the golf course manage the trees to reduce risk. This could also include installing lightning protection in key trees. Documenting positive steps to reduce risk may make a difference in the premium, and will definitely help if an accident happens.

Im hardly taking enough to worry about,just enough to equal the roots im pulling that run under my greens.If they fall they will fall away from the greens and into the woods.I havent lost any of these big guys yet.I get a tree or 2 hit every yr.No way will there be money for any lightning protection,we have much more important needs with the $$,economy is forcing us to pinch tighter than ever before.

 

[Treelearner]

Don't listen to everyone on this!

Look, in some cases, fragile plants will die after reducing the roots. In my experience, I have drastically reduced roots from a Ficus Braid Tree (14 years old: 24' height 20' width with no problems at all. I have also drastically reduced compacted roots from a pygmy date palm from 1 1/2 feet to 5in. I have also uprooted two other pygmy palms and re-planted them with no problem; also, I separated 4 individual stocks of the giant bird of paradise in which the roots were entangled. They are doing just fine...Bottom line--If you're going to cut roots off of a tree, MAKE SURE YOU POUR VITAMIN B-1 (follow instructions as indicated) directly on the cut roots and make sure that you water around the basin of the tree--repeat this every 14 days or when you see that the tree is doing well. P.S. if you are going to cut the roots from a tree, do it during the growing season, so it will be able to heal.