Winch 101 Some Basics on Winch Ratings

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Swamp Yankee

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
1,953
Reaction score
919
Location
Northeastern CT
OK, as promised here's some basic info on winches. Let's just say this is chapter one. Depending upon response, questions, and how onery I am after writing this more may follow.

Please before you beat me senseless read the following:
The information given here applies only to electric 12 and 24 volt winches built for consumer, off road & light duty use. Winches electric and hydraulic built for commercial applications fall under different guidelines that may be addressed in a different thread. (See previous paragraph)

How is a winch rated? I'll bet I could ask 20 different people and get 20 different answers.
It all starts with the drum and wire rope, not the motor or gearbox. Get into that later. The output of the gearbox is torque and is a fixed maximum value measured in lb-inches. (Load in lbs multiplied by the radius at which the load is applied) In essence its the same principle as a lever and fulcrum just applied radially.

Let's say the output torque to the drum, regardless of the motor hp, and gearbox ratio and efficiency, and bearing losses is 2000 lb-inches. If the drum diameter is 1-1/2 inches and the wire rope diameter is 3/16 inches, the effective radius of the load is (1-1/2 + 3/16) / 2 or 27/32 (.843 inches). It is assumed the load is applied at the center of the wire rope. Dividing 2000 lb inches by .843 inches says in theory the winch should pull a load of 2372 lbs on the first layer aka bare drum. If the same wire rope was put on a 2-1/2 inch dia drum and we do the math the same gearbox output will only allow a load of 1488 lbs. We'll use this information later if you haven't hit the back button yet. (By the way this rule applies to all winches commercial and consumer.)

Winch line pull is rated on the bare drum or first layer. So if a winch is rated at 2000 lbs that's what it will pull on the first layer. As layers increase or the cable builds up on one side of the drum the line pull drops. (It's our old friend the radius coming back to haunt.) There are specific formulas for calculating line pull loss as the layers increase but let's just say a line pull loss of 10 percent per layer is a good rule of thumb.

Ok enough with the theory lets talk specifics. The rated line pull of a winch used to be defined as, the weight the winch could dead lift for 1 foot with a constant 12 volt, (24 Volt in some systems), on the first layer with 5 wraps of wire rope on the drum. Five wraps were used as the wire rope anchor on all these winches is not intended to or required to hold the rated load.

There's a couple of flaws in this application. First in a mobile application, depending upon the battery, connections, lead wires, and system temperature you'll never maintain a 12 volt input. Second during this test the manufacturer may use equipment other than that supplied as standard to the consumer to test. (oh and they won't tell you) Things like 2 gauge wire instead of 10, solenoids with gold contacts, ambient temp of 30 degrees etc are often implemented. This doesn't apply to any one manufacturer they all have their own test set-ups. I would love to get my hands on some of the Chinese stuff and run a few experiments.

All this means is once installed a winch sold with a 3000 lb line pull probably will never get there. Oh it may show a load of 3000 lbs on a load cell put it isn't going to get a ton and a half off the ground.

Ok so we now know the load capacity of a winch is not exactly what it says it may be. A lot of people believe the winch rating is the load the winch will pull for it's entire wire rope length. Nope not true. Another rule of thumb, take the winch rating divide it by 5 and that's probably about the load it will pull for the full length of the wire rope. If you have a winch rated at 8000 lbs with 100 feet of wire rope, it will probably pull 1600 lbs the full length. The biggest thing you buy when you spend the money for a winch with a larger line pull rating is on time.

Consumer winches are not required to meet any standards for strength, though they do exist. Keep this in mind when thinking about a winch and what you'll be using it for. Winches are designed and intended for pulling not lifting. Never use a winch for lifting unless the manufacturer specifically rates it for crane or hoisting applications.

Ok, I'm shot. If there is any additional interest I'd be willing to give some info on winch features, gearboxes, motors, brakes, mounting etc. None of which will make much sense until the winch rating concept is grasped. Give me your feedback, send PM's, or just tell me I'm full of it and go dry up.

Take Care
 
Thinking about a new winch are we ?

I dont blame you , I'm getting tired of loading 400# slabs by hand. With a good winch setup I could over load my truck much faster and head home sooner. But then I would just go back after more, quicker.

:cheers:
 
Thinking about a new winch are we ?

I dont blame you , I'm getting tired of loading 400# slabs by hand. With a good winch setup I could over load my truck much faster and head home sooner. But then I would just go back after more, quicker.

:cheers:

Nope, got all I need.

Should have explained at the beginning, in another thread on winches I let slip I used to design winches from 500 lb to 50,000 lbs for fifteen years. A few members expressed interest in learning more about winches so I obliged and started this thread. If there are other questions I'll try to answer them otherwise as I said before,
"just tell me I'm full of it and go dry up".

Take Care
 
Thanks for the great information. Now you've piqued my curiosity....what exactly defines "off-road and light duty" use and how does it differ from commercial use?

I'm also looking forward to the chapters on hydraulic and commercial winches. Where do PTO winches fall in this story?

Thanks again for sharing the information.
 
You bring up many good points a lot of people take for granted "I just bought this cool 8000 pound winch for my truck, it only weighs 7000 pounds, it'll be good forever"

Yeah, on the last rap with your engine at 2000 RPM running 2 ought cable, on a good day.

I had some kind of hydro winch hooked up to a pump on the engine in an 04 f-350. It was only an 8000 pound winch (worm gear), I ran about 200' of 3/8 cable on it but that thing would easily outpull my 12,000 pound winch on my own pickup in any layer and faster.

How do electric hoists fall into this category? Better brakes?
 
Nice write-up! If you don't mind continuing on, I'd love to learn more. You didn't by chance work for SW did you?

I recently purchased a used winch and made a portable plate and chain system for it, I've found it has come in handy a couple of times already. :)
 
hydraulic winch on grapple

I have a grapple truck that has the clam and rotate functions plumbed to the grapple. I have thought of putting a hydraulic winch on there with a couple ball valves to use existing spools etc. It would be handy b/c I could drag something across a lawn and make it "lighter by pulling with the boom up. Maybe this is crazy but you seem to be the man with the answers. Thanks for the thoughts.
 
Nice write up.

What are the advantages of PTO and hydraulic winches. I would eventualy like to install a winch on my 3500 Ram. I have PTO capability and would consider it if its going to be stronger. I've been known to get stuck with a loaded trailer in the mud :popcorn:
 
Please professor Swamp Yankee continue are winch class. Great stuff. Based on your location I guess SW was your employer. I trashed one of their 1500 winches on my ATV. Pure and simple operator error and abuse. :buttkick: That little winch got me out of many of jams and raised and lowered my snow plow too many times to count.

Eagerly awaiting lesson #2. :clap:
 
Somebody not too long ago had pics of a 3-pt tractor winch he had made out of an old truck differential. It was pretty interesting. I'd imagine that thing would pull until the tractor motor stalled out.
 
I have a grapple truck that has the clam and rotate functions plumbed to the grapple. I have thought of putting a hydraulic winch on there with a couple ball valves to use existing spools etc. It would be handy b/c I could drag something across a lawn and make it "lighter by pulling with the boom up. Maybe this is crazy but you seem to be the man with the answers. Thanks for the thoughts.

Without knowing your set up, (pressure and flow) I can't really give a thumbs up or down.

It certainly sounds feasible. If you have a set of stack valves for the other functions, like Gressen, or Parker etc. it probably wouldn't be that much more to add section with a motor spool and a bolt kit. The other option is if the existing valves have a Power Beyond port that you can tap into just add a cheap spool valve and run that way. In either of those two options the plumbing would be much cleaner.

Hope this helps

Take Care
 
You bring up many good points a lot of people take for granted "I just bought this cool 8000 pound winch for my truck, it only weighs 7000 pounds, it'll be good forever"

Yeah, on the last rap with your engine at 2000 RPM running 2 ought cable, on a good day.

I had some kind of hydro winch hooked up to a pump on the engine in an 04 f-350. It was only an 8000 pound winch (worm gear), I ran about 200' of 3/8 cable on it but that thing would easily outpull my 12,000 pound winch on my own pickup in any layer and faster.

How do electric hoists fall into this category? Better brakes?

Electric hoists are a whole different animal. The safety factors, ratings and drum diameters make them completely different from winches. For example, (off the top of my head) an 8000 lb winch properly modified might make a 1500 lb hoist.

Sorry for such a short answer but they really are different products for different applications.

Take Care
 
What winch do you recommend for a F-250 diesel used as a tree service work truck ?

I'm looking for the stoutest one I can get for under a grand.
 
I recently installed a 12K MM on my 24' deckover trailer. I know a little of the basics of winchology. Thats why I wanted a 12K as I know they really don't perform as one might think. After getting some time on the unit I'm sure glad I have at the least a 12K both for line speed and power. Pulling a full size truck or car on my trailer without a block proves just how misleading those rating are. Yes it has always done the job but sounds like there is quite a load on it pulling up the ramps. I can't imagine an 8K being capable of doing what the 12K does unless the ratings are way off between mfg's.
 
Swamp..

I have a 9000lbs T-max and I'm running a Yellow Top Optima Battery. I was told that the top post on the battery are for winching and the side post are for your regular hook up.. Any idea why?


Thanks
 
Swamp..

I have a 9000lbs T-max and I'm running a Yellow Top Optima Battery. I was told that the top post on the battery are for winching and the side post are for your regular hook up.. Any idea why?


Thanks

Greater surface area on the top post, which gives you better transfer. They also put both styles on the batteries to make them more universal in application.
 
Swamp..

I have a 9000lbs T-max and I'm running a Yellow Top Optima Battery. I was told that the top post on the battery are for winching and the side post are for your regular hook up.. Any idea why?


Thanks

Educated (?) guess

The side terminals are a pain to get 2 gauge cable hooked to, due to the large bending radius. Also the standard screw may not be long enough to get proper thread engagement when you add in the ring termination.

Top of the battery is much easier access and will allow you to get a master disconnect or circuit breaker wired in. The big cable should also have a straight shot to the terminal when coming up through the space between the grill and radiator.

Take Care
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Back
Top