Winch 101 Some Basics on Winch Ratings

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You're right.
That's why the industry started in that area years ago to service the oil fields in Oklahoma and Texas.

Take Care

If you get off the pavement in those locations you will
need 4+4 and or a good winch gumbo is very bottomless.
I witnessed a feller park a d7g cat on frozen ground that
was gumbo next day warmed up and all you could see was
the stack! He thought it was stolen and the boss was pissed
took 2 other dozers and a crane to break suction! :Eye:
 
I have thought off putting my hope loader on my grapple for the skid
and load as it is faster than any winch. It is on my retired cable loader
works off a brake drum apparatus it is real fast and strong.
 
The hope loader is fast if you were beside the log and I pulled the
cord attached to the master cylinder you would have to run to keep up.
That is fast and unless it is 40 inch dbh it is coming out of its location
at that speed. I really wish my old hope loader was still going the truck
its on was the problem 75 model needs a lot of work. I have too much
in it already but the cable loader is in good shape, I may get it going
someday or mount it to a better vehicle.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rams...m14QQhashZitem260295005993QQitemZ260295005993


Is this appropriate for dragging trees/brush to the grapple? Thanks

That's an old Ramsey worm drive.

The motor is a standard SAE 2 bolt so replacement is not an issue. I would be more concerned with the condition of the worm, wheel, and driveline bearings. Everything else could be easy to repair.
As to the worm and wheel if they are damaged, primary cause usually being run dry becase the worm box seals went south and there was no oil, you'll have a 120 lb paper weight. Worm sets can be changed out but you'll need to be familar with shimming them into proper position in order to do so.
As to speed, that will depend entirely on your hydraulics. Worm drives are not fast , my estimate is bare drum the wire rope speed on that winch is in the 15 to 20 ft/min.
Be sure the freespool is operating properly. Not just releasing the drum to allow cable to be pulled out, but more important that is re-engaging fully. Failure to re-engage creates a very dangerous situation as only a very small portion of the drive may be carrying the load.
As it came off a rool back it's most likely an 8000 lb unit as that's what is on rollbacks.
Hope this helps,
Take Care
 
It's because the top posts on an optima go down into the battery and can get more current..the side posts are just parrellel'd off the top posts with a metal strap...you can see it buldge out of the molded plastic case of the battery, so the sides have less current capacity...

P.S. Do yourself a favor and don't let that optima deep cycle to the point of needing to be jumped etc..keep it above 12v....I don't care what they call them or advertise about them they do not like to be deep cycled...I build custom cars and have a wall of dead optimas that client's have come in with that I've replced, last one was a hot rod three weeks ago who never even used the thing..just dropped in last year as he was finishing up the truck, now he needs it and it's dead...they have a big name and advertise well but there are much better batteries out there. I'm a big fan of Hawker Odessey batteries,they take a beating and come back for more.


Swamp..

I have a 9000lbs T-max and I'm running a Yellow Top Optima Battery. I was told that the top post on the battery are for winching and the side post are for your regular hook up.. Any idea why?


Thanks
 
I've been wanting to try the Odessey. I have a 10yr plus 6V Optima that is still going strong and I'm sure has had countless run downs. It has been the most amazing battery I've ever seen.
 
10 yrs on an optima is awesome! Maybe they went the way of many a company...build great stuff in the beginning, get big and fall apart...I'm not sure, I just know I've had 5+ years of frustration with optima batteries :) As a custom car guy they always seem to die at the worst possible time :censored:
 
10 yrs on an optima is awesome! Maybe they went the way of many a company...build great stuff in the beginning, get big and fall apart...I'm not sure, I just know I've had 5+ years of frustration with optima batteries As a custom car guy they always seem to die at the worst possible time
I have a 12V that serves double duty between my dump trailer and my equipment trailer. On the dump I can dump a full load at least a dozen times , maybe more since its never run dead yet, between charges when using it behind the tractor. It has amazed me for sure. However I've had that one for about 6yrs so it rather old too.
 
here's the latest craigslist score...Ramsey QM 8000 w/cradle, new never used.. with all the acessories..

four Optima blue top batteries, like new condition was purchased two weeks ago off craigslist. two went directly into my Cummins turbo diesel. Optima Blue tops are designed for low discharge and starting. Amazing cells... recharges in about an hour. have been warned not to let cells discharge too low.

two 8,000lb rated Ramsey winches side by side.... electric vs hydraulic...
there's no comparison in built quality... hydraulic winch looks like it would pull twice the load of electric winch.

ramsey8k.JPG


ramsey winch.JPG
 
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I have a quick question about "bypassing" the solenoids. I got my Jeep stuck on Sunday, no big deal it was in a hole I've been in before, I hit the in dash switch I have from my winch, released the cable and then attached the cabler around a tree. Now when I went to bring in the cable nothing, I hooked up my remote nothing, just a slight click coming from inside my solenoid case.. I jumped the winch using booster cable and was able to get the cable to come in but it's got no power and will only tighten the cable. Is it because the booster cables can' carry enough current? not a good enough connection using the cables? I'm heading back out tonight to see if I can' take my solenoid pack apart and find a problem. Jeeps been out in since Sunday and I'd kinda like to get it home..

Thanks

Bill
 
Think I found the problem.. One of the wires from the backside of the remote was pulled out, Going to fix it now and see if that was it..
 
What do I need?

I am looking for a fast winch. Not like ropensaddles where you need to run to keep up but something much faster than I have seen out of these 8000 lb winches. Can I take an 8000 # hydraulic winch and put on a different hydraulic motor with a smaller displacement and more rpms. I would rather have a fast 2000 # winch because I can't tear up peoples yards. This is the one I have in mind.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RPH-...m14QQhashZitem270286337118QQitemZ270286337118
 
I am looking for a fast winch. Not like ropensaddles where you need to run to keep up but something much faster than I have seen out of these 8000 lb winches. Can I take an 8000 # hydraulic winch and put on a different hydraulic motor with a smaller displacement and more rpms. I would rather have a fast 2000 # winch because I can't tear up peoples yards. This is the one I have in mind.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RPH-...m14QQhashZitem270286337118QQitemZ270286337118
:laugh: the thing about that is it can be fast but you let the brake
slip slow as well. I went by where I have it parked the other day next
time I will get some pics it is ugly but mean :hmm3grin2orange:

Simply spool size will change speed but the bigger the spool
the meaner she has to be!
 
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I am looking for a fast winch. Not like ropensaddles where you need to run to keep up but something much faster than I have seen out of these 8000 lb winches. Can I take an 8000 # hydraulic winch and put on a different hydraulic motor with a smaller displacement and more rpms. I would rather have a fast 2000 # winch because I can't tear up peoples yards. This is the one I have in mind.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RPH-...m14QQhashZitem270286337118QQitemZ270286337118

Smaller displacement will get you more line speed,

but you'll loose pull especially in the top layers. Be sure to think about that before you go too small on the motor. Remember that winch motor also has to overcome and drive through the brake in the winch out direction. Yes, you can adjust that brake down to accommodate the smaller motor, it's just when you get to your top layer the brake may only hold 300 to 400 lbs. The load control valve on the motor will probably give you better load holding than the mechanical brake.
That Ramsey at full flow spec'd out around 45 ft/min. bare drum higher as the layers increase. If you get one of those RPH's I'd run it stock and adjust the motor displacement after. If you really want to get the best of both worlds look around for a 2 speed motor.

Take Care
 
Will the winch take it?

Swampyankee, If I put on a faster motor will the internal parts of the winch be able to handle the extra speed? Is this particular winch a good one to think about for what I am wanting as far as a universal motor mount etc.? I have a Ramer grapple setup made in Ramer Alabama. How do I know if I have power beyond capabilities?
 
Swampyankee, If I put on a faster motor will the internal parts of the winch be able to handle the extra speed? Is this particular winch a good one to think about for what I am wanting as far as a universal motor mount etc.? I have a Ramer grapple setup made in Ramer Alabama. How do I know if I have power beyond capabilities?

Motor on that winch is a standard SAE "A" 2-bolt flange. I don't remember whether that winch uses the splined or 1 inch keyed shaft. Either is readily available from multiple manufacturers. (I recommend Parker-Ross or Char-Lynn but that's up to you)
Should be no issue speeding that winch up as it's a single stage planetary. Only problem I can fore see is balance of the carrier if you spin it too fast. (Kinda like running an out of balance tire and wheel)
The make of the grapple is not important, I need to know who made the valve stack. I'm guessing it's Gressen but could be one of dozens. The power beyond is usually a 1/2 or 3/4 inch port in the end cap of the stack valves. From there you tie a motor spool valve using hoses. If it's for a winch make sure it has decent metering capability so you can regulate speed.
If you can track down any names or part numbers on the existing valves I'll try and research what is available.

Take Care
 

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