Wire core lanyard vs nonwire core

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Froggy

Froggy

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Quick question for you all. I've used a nonwire core lanyard for a while now. Now I'm thinking I should use a wire core lanyard as much as I can to reduce the risk of cutting through the lanyard. I'm very careful and pay attention to my lanyard and ropes all the time. Why risk it when you are away from electrical hazards. What are some of the advantages of the wire core. Besides the fact you are less likely to cut through and it is stiffer than nonwire core. I also heard it's easier to climb with. Any feed back is welcome.
Thanks,BB
 
kf_tree

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1 vote steel core.

the steel core makes it easier to flip up a stick. the stiffness helps to flip it or pull the back side up on rough bark or vine covered tree's. i really really like it....i've used it with a gibbs and a petzl, no real preference though. they both have their quirks.
 
Ryan Willock

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On removals I use a steel core flip line with a micro grab, however on prune jobs where I won't be using my chain saw much I prefer to use a regular flipline.
 
monkeypuzzle

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I too use a wire core flip with a gibbs, 8 footer and 5/8'' dia. , seems to be easier to control than the 1/2''. I keep a 10' just in case, but rarely use it. I also have a 5 footer, I don't know where it came from though. I don't care for the swivel snap.

I think steel core is easier to throw around a spar and catch than the non-steel core,not as floppy.

Don't have anything negitive to say about them.:)
 
Mattman

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I didn't know that people were using non-steel core fliplines until I saw Frans the other day. I still don't understand it. When ever around power lines I just use to high leads.
Matt
 
ramanujan

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what are people's practices as far as double tie-ins when using a steel core? for myself i know that on a standard single stem excurrent removal (something i do a lot of) i climb and cut tied in only with my steel core.

to work with two lanyards or lanyard and climbing line in this situation is overly cumbersome and, from my point of view, unnecessary.

i realize that it is very possible to cut thru a steel core with a saw, but like so many other things in this biz, it's an accepted risk.

if the tree is a leaner and i feel that in the event of a gaff out i may slip to the ground i will either double wrap my lanyard or tie in with a running system.

ditto for the rope lanyard for pruning... not only are they easier to manage for work positioning but with an aluminum snap on the end and a distel for adjustment, they're noticeably lighter also.
 
jblimbwalker

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Originally posted by Jacob J.
What exactly is the Distel hitch? Is this an improved Blake hitch? I use the Blake for overhead tie-ins and the prusik on a split tail with my running lanyard but have never heard of a Distel hitch. Thanks, JJ

The Distel is merely a tautline tied on a closed system. The fact that it is a closed system changes the performance significantly. I mainly work off the Knut, but Distel is my second choice. Do a search here for them both.
 
TREETX

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Courtesy of Sergio at www.treeclimbing.it

attachment.php


Not many single stem excurrent trees here so it is a RARE day that I am in hooks at all. I mean rare. Therefore, I don't use a steel core. I feel safe anyway because I employ 2 tie ins. Even with a steel core, use 2 tie ins. It only takes a second to cut through a steel core with a ms200. That is according to a MC post on *bzz. A second can still make all the difference.

Steel core is not a license to be sloppy or careless.

In Germany, steel core is mandatory but then again, they have only been able to LEGALLY use a chainsaw in a tree since 2001.
 
Ryan Willock

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Jacob, if you try the distel hitch you won't want to use a Blake's again!! word of advice..... BUY THE MICRO PULLY!!!!! You won't be sorry! Do you have to high climb some of the timber you cut?? Or do you do residential jobs?
 
Jacob J.
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<p>That's a great looking pic of the Distel, I am going to try that. Plus you can set up your pulley in a way that's much more convenient. Ryan- A lot of times after I finish cutting a unit I help the rigging slinger pull roads down and change "lanes". Both the rigging slinger and the hook tender do a lot of climbing, the rigging slinger setting tail blocks and haul-back lines, the hook tender sets the tower wires and intermediate supports. I help these guys hang blocks and straps, or set haywire over fixed "running anchors" for hauling up long lengths of skyline. We do a little residential work, not much. I wish I had a crew from this site though, I have a 12' Redwood that's about 5' off of a guy's front porch that he wants out. I think there's going to be a crane in his front yard soon. :)<p/>
 
Tim Gardner

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I read somewhere that a rope manufacturer is coming out with a rope that is as stiff as a steel core but not as heavy. Anyone else see that?

The steel core does make it easier to flip up larger diameter spars but I just set a line and get a groundie to belay me on my way up. Most of the time I can set my climbing line and self belay with it. Using a v.t. climbing hitch the rope will usually feed itself through as I pull down on the standing part and “walk” up the spar.

Use your hands to trace the flip line around the spar to make sure it is below your cut before reaching for your saw. Get the 10' steel core. I was on a job last week with a friend of mine. He came out of a tree and said that his steel core “ran out”. He uses an 8 footer. I wanted to say "I told you so" but bit my lip. The extra two feet make a big difference.

There is a good thread over at the buz* that talks about flip lines and safety.
 
John Paul Sanborn

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Originally posted by Jacob J.
<p> I wish I had a crew from this site though, I have a 12' Redwood that's about 5' off of a guy's front porch that he wants out. I think there's going to be a crane in his front yard soon. :)<p/>

Get ahold of Mike Oxman, you should be able to find a link to hime here, though he is boycotting the site because he does not think we should have any discretion as to postings:rolleyes:

I've worked with him on some big storm jobs.

He is out of Seattle now, but comes from Oregon. He's working as a subcontractor these days.

If you annot get ahold of him through the site, drop me a line I have his email.
 
John Paul Sanborn

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Originally posted by Tim Gardner
I read somewhere that a rope manufacturer is coming out with a rope that is as stiff as a steel core but not as heavy. Anyone else see that?

There are some out there now, I first started climbing with a 3 strand hardlay flipline on a prussick.

I think I've seen some 12 strand too.

Using a steel line is false security. While it may take a nick better then 16 strand, it will only slow a saw down a bit if comming straight across under trension.

I aluways double tie with my climbing line under my flip. The flip is a little more comfortable to lean back into where I have it rigged to the saddle.
 
Froggy

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Reply

So if steel core if a false security and wont slow down the saw under pressure. Then why use it if a 16 strand is lighter and just as effective. The only reason I can see to switch would be because it would reduce the risk of cutting your self out of the tree.
 
NickfromWI

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Re: Reply

Originally posted by Froggy
So if steel core if a false security and wont slow down the saw under pressure. Then why use it if a 16 strand is lighter and just as effective.

Froggy-
I think this is the reason most people stick with "rope" flip lines. Double tie in, and you should be fine. I couldn't imagine lugging around a steel flip line. Maybe I'm just a weenie!

love
nick
 
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