THC
ArboristSite Lurker
Gentlemen,
First my back ground. I have been climbing for about 4-5 years without gaffs. I use a single rope method and have been doing this for my needs and friends. All of it is trimming and removal of broken storm damage. I cannot say I would make a pimple on a real tree climbers rear end, however it is good work and I like it. I began this due to storm damage I had on my property and my wife had stopped in the local hardware store where she mentioned what I was doing to a fellow and they sold her a Weaver saddle. I then looked up the industry safety information and bought the Tree workers Handbook, read and have been successful from there.
The problem! Recently tree gaffs have been added to the equipment list, along with a block and sling, a Protawrap and Whoopee sling, and an old 1/2” dia climbing line to use as a rigging rope. The rope is in good condition at this time.
I have four 70 ft high Soft Maples that are essentially 18 to 24 inch diameter poles with a small canopy at the top, one of which is broken over due to storm damage. My customer wants these taken down and they are situated in an area where I do not want to drop the tops, but want a controlled decent of the cut off work pieces.
On my place/property there was a good practice tree that had broken over and was a Black Cherry. Climbing using the gaffs is great! No problem getting into a position in which to use the Arborist chain saw, clear away all of the limbs to prepare for the first 3-400 lb 36” or so long chunk to be cut off and caught by the block for lowering to ground level.
The question is, how do you properly make the back notch cut?? I did not do it right as it took several attempts to get the saw through stem properly.
What I will do differently on the next tree.
1 Set the block along with the rigging rope tied in the block to prevent it from falling out.
2 With the steel core flip line positioned above the block, I will move around the stem/trunk until I can properly create a back saw notch greater than 45 deg and about 1/3 distance through the diameter of the stem/trunk. When completed, reposition myself opposite the back cut.
3 Tie off the piece to be cut off using two clove hitch knots 8 – 10” above the back cut and about 20” apart.
4 Have the ground crew fellow tighten up the line slack as much as possible and take 4-5 wraps around the Porta Wrap. My point here is to have as short a free fall of the work piece as possible.
5 Begin my separation cut such that it angles down toward the intersection of the back cut but not through.
6 When I feel the work piece is about to drop, I intend to stop the saw and by hand push off the cut piece so it is hinged over away from me. It will drop away from the flip line and a second lanyard, I like two tie ins where ever possible and be caught by the block to then be lowered to the ground in a controlled manner.
That is the plan. Please let me know your thoughts. I feel confident that it should go well all the way down the tree.
Best regards,
Terry
First my back ground. I have been climbing for about 4-5 years without gaffs. I use a single rope method and have been doing this for my needs and friends. All of it is trimming and removal of broken storm damage. I cannot say I would make a pimple on a real tree climbers rear end, however it is good work and I like it. I began this due to storm damage I had on my property and my wife had stopped in the local hardware store where she mentioned what I was doing to a fellow and they sold her a Weaver saddle. I then looked up the industry safety information and bought the Tree workers Handbook, read and have been successful from there.
The problem! Recently tree gaffs have been added to the equipment list, along with a block and sling, a Protawrap and Whoopee sling, and an old 1/2” dia climbing line to use as a rigging rope. The rope is in good condition at this time.
I have four 70 ft high Soft Maples that are essentially 18 to 24 inch diameter poles with a small canopy at the top, one of which is broken over due to storm damage. My customer wants these taken down and they are situated in an area where I do not want to drop the tops, but want a controlled decent of the cut off work pieces.
On my place/property there was a good practice tree that had broken over and was a Black Cherry. Climbing using the gaffs is great! No problem getting into a position in which to use the Arborist chain saw, clear away all of the limbs to prepare for the first 3-400 lb 36” or so long chunk to be cut off and caught by the block for lowering to ground level.
The question is, how do you properly make the back notch cut?? I did not do it right as it took several attempts to get the saw through stem properly.
What I will do differently on the next tree.
1 Set the block along with the rigging rope tied in the block to prevent it from falling out.
2 With the steel core flip line positioned above the block, I will move around the stem/trunk until I can properly create a back saw notch greater than 45 deg and about 1/3 distance through the diameter of the stem/trunk. When completed, reposition myself opposite the back cut.
3 Tie off the piece to be cut off using two clove hitch knots 8 – 10” above the back cut and about 20” apart.
4 Have the ground crew fellow tighten up the line slack as much as possible and take 4-5 wraps around the Porta Wrap. My point here is to have as short a free fall of the work piece as possible.
5 Begin my separation cut such that it angles down toward the intersection of the back cut but not through.
6 When I feel the work piece is about to drop, I intend to stop the saw and by hand push off the cut piece so it is hinged over away from me. It will drop away from the flip line and a second lanyard, I like two tie ins where ever possible and be caught by the block to then be lowered to the ground in a controlled manner.
That is the plan. Please let me know your thoughts. I feel confident that it should go well all the way down the tree.
Best regards,
Terry
