is there a site for contacting a local portable mill service in our areas?
how fo you find a service locally
A
how fo you find a service locally
A
hardwood is a serious pain in the ass to mill structural lumber (2x6 or 2x4's) from. as soon as it comes off the mill it wants to bend, crook, warp, whatever. and if it doesnt do anything funky then it will twist and cup as its drying. sometimes acceptable in a barn but not so much in a house. we have a huge amount of large ash and oak trees (28"-30" dbh). these do not saw up well. i finally came to the conclusion that it was smarter to sell these for sawlogs at $500-$1000 per MBF and buy structural lumber. that said we also have a large amount of yellow poplar and basswood. these make MUCH better lumber. theyre eaiser to cut, not as heavy and will warp much less. Large hardwoods arent very easy to work with on a sawmill. the band wants to rise in the middle and make wavy cuts with anything over 24" - espically if its a little seasoned.
Now all hardwood has problems with bending, warp ect... It depends more on the logs than if it's "hardwood" or not... I saw oak, cherry and other logs "without" any of those problems here where i live...
Another thing... Don't lump all bandmills together when you state that "your's" would dip in big logs. Mine does NOT have this problem, and 99% of the dipping or riseing in the cut, is a "band" problem, not just because it's a "bandmill". Some logs can and will be a problem, but it can always be traced to something causeing it, or it's a problem log, and not just because it's a "bandmill"...
Yes i've seen dips come from bandsaws, yes i've seen "MY" bandmill dip...but changeing out the band cures that problem, and i've sawn a LOT of big hardwood logs...
Rob
I've traded beams and lumber for welding on my tractor, a side of beef and a gun.
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