385xp milling setup - tell me what you think?

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matt0550

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Bought this saw for far less than its worth- VERY low hours on it and it came with a granberg 36" mill, granberg 44" bar and 4 granberg ripping chains as well as a 24" bar and a few full house husky loops all in really good shape - couple of the granberg ripping loops actually appear to have never been kissed.

Saw is tuned and running absolutely stellar with a new dual port can on it - love the power the ole girl makes and she's faster in the wood than my 372 by a sizeable difference which actually surprised me.

The original oiler was hooped cause the previous owner overturned the metering screw so I swapped in a new oem one and now she'll piss oil till you cant stand it if you want it to.

My questions to you all is what you think of my setup - what would you do/not do or do differently? Im gonna be making beams/cants out of some Eastern Cottonwood and my biggest cuts will end up 20-24". The mill is setup for 30" cut as it sits and I have NO plans to work anything that large ever - I feel like this saw is underpowered for that type of demand. If I ever do get my hands on stuff 30" on up that I'd want to take a crack at I'd probably buy a Chineeese 100cc head for that specific purpose and just beat it unmerciful. The external oiler is setup on the outgoing side of the bar currently and I'm thinking it would be better served on the incoming side? - looking for advice on that cause it looks to me like oiling it heavy right before the bar end will only serve to sling oil into the guard/helper and lose much of it before it makes it down the cutting/return side of the bar. I know that milling is rough on a saw and I've adopted a heavier oil mix and got er running a tad fat (not crazy rich, just a little on the fat side).

Before you have to ask, I'm working with cottonwood cause its free to me and is already on the ground and stacked and its literally 300 yards from where I'll be using the lumber... its for hunting shacks, so longevity etc is non-issue.

The previous owner said he loved it when he ran it - 44" just seems like too much for this saw to me, but she spins that loop just like the 24", so I guess I'm fixin to find out.
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I'd say that setup is right on the edge of what your saw will handle. The granberg chain (well sharpened) & the aux oiler will definitely help it manage. I would suggest you get a 36" bar (in the same gauge) & shorten a couple of those loops to suit. You'd get away with a 32" if you're happy to remove the bucking spikes to get the full use of the bar length & an ~25" cut
 
Thanks JD, I've been looking at bars - pricey but may be the cure in the end...like you said, I can shorten what I have and my only expense will be the bar.
 
I used my stock 385XP with a 36" bar and ripping chain to mill SYP and RedOak maxing out the bar width on several trees. It did fine for me to get done what i needed. I'm sure a 395 or 3120 would have been even better, might as well say a Hydraulic band saw would keep getting better as well. The 385XP would be the only saw for me if one were the only option.
 
If you're talking about the auxiliary oiler, you may not need it. But it's there is you do.
You can not get too much oil on your bar&chain.
Bought this saw for far less than its worth- VERY low hours on it and it came with a granberg 36" mill, granberg 44" bar and 4 granberg ripping chains as well as a 24" bar and a few full house husky loops all in really good shape - couple of the granberg ripping loops actually appear to have never been kissed.

Saw is tuned and running absolutely stellar with a new dual port can on it - love the power the ole girl makes and she's faster in the wood than my 372 by a sizeable difference which actually surprised me.

The original oiler was hooped cause the previous owner overturned the metering screw so I swapped in a new oem one and now she'll piss oil till you cant stand it if you want it to.

My questions to you all is what you think of my setup - what would you do/not do or do differently? Im gonna be making beams/cants out of some Eastern Cottonwood and my biggest cuts will end up 20-24". The mill is setup for 30" cut as it sits and I have NO plans to work anything that large ever - I feel like this saw is underpowered for that type of demand. If I ever do get my hands on stuff 30" on up that I'd want to take a crack at I'd probably buy a Chineeese 100cc head for that specific purpose and just beat it unmerciful. The external oiler is setup on the outgoing side of the bar currently and I'm thinking it would be better served on the incoming side? - looking for advice on that cause it looks to me like oiling it heavy right before the bar end will only serve to sling oil into the guard/helper and lose much of it before it makes it down the cutting/return side of the bar. I know that milling is rough on a saw and I've adopted a heavier oil mix and got er running a tad fat (not crazy rich, just a little on the fat side).

Before you have to ask, I'm working with cottonwood cause its free to me and is already on the ground and stacked and its literally 300 yards from where I'll be using the lumber... its for hunting shacks, so longevity etc is non-issue.

The previous owner said he loved it when he ran it - 44" just seems like too much for this saw to me, but she spins that loop just like the 24", so I guess I'm fixin to find out.
View attachment 1056305View attachment 1056306View attachment 1056307View attachment 1056308
WOW! looks like a really nice setup.
The boy's got a car to follow it up too....
 
Saw is tuned and running absolutely stellar with a new dual port can on it - love the power the ole girl makes and she's faster in the wood than my 372 by a sizeable difference which actually surprised me.
Big or/and hard wood, long bars makes the difference. Smaller wood / at 20-24" the 372 just might be just as fast.
 
Speaking of 372XP, one came up for sale local today for $500. Didn't last long but also looked like it was worked pretty good. I hardly ever see them came up here.
 

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