Would you guy's take this tree down?

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Nailsbeats

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This is a white oak that is in my front yard between two of my buildings. I trimmed it 4 years ago when I bought the place to lighten the side load. As you can see it has a hollow split between the stems. If either side rips off it will land on a building causing damage. I could throw a chain around it to hold the two sides together and lighten it up on the sides a little more, or remove it. If I took it down I could still get a log or two out of it. What would you guys do?
DSCN1732.jpg

The whole tree.
DSCN1734.jpg

Back split.
DSCN1733.jpg

Front split.
 
Looks like the split doesn't even go half way down the straight run, but it's hard to tell for sure.
From what I can see, I am not there, I don't think I would be afraid of it.
Good notch and wedge it, should be pretty straight foreward.
 
Looks like the split doesn't even go half way down the straight run, but it's hard to tell for sure.
From what I can see, I am not there, I don't think I would be afraid of it.
Good notch and wedge it, should be pretty straight foreward.

You are right. She will go down in one piece no problem, but should I take it down at all?
 
split

That split could easily become a problem if the cuts (hinge) parallel the split.

It could be a problem anyway.

***************

I just posted this slide in another thread a few days ago.

It has some application here too.
 
If it was very important/valuable to me I would cable it, and maybe put some bolts through the union. I might also trim some of the bark in an effort to help the two halves to graft back together.
If not I would cut it to protect the structures.
 
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A cable should do it. I don't think a brace is neccesary since the joint doesn't seem to be failing yet. The only problem with a cable is that the two sides are so different in height that it may be impossible to get the cable high enough on the right side to properly support the left side. Cables should be 2/3 of the way from the split to the tips of the branches for proper support. An on site evaluation by a knowledgeable tree person might be needed.
 
Thanks for the input guys.

I think I will lighten it up a bit and tie the two sides together with a chain. I use a chain instead of cable because it doesn't break. I have climbed too many trees with bolts and broken cable in them. I have used this method many times without any problems. Find some good logging chain on sale and put it up in the top, it's not as noticeable as one might think. I like the location of the tree and it has very good form, so I will doctor it up and keep it. Saved another one. Thank you.
 
That split could easily become a problem if the cuts (hinge) parallel the split.

It could be a problem anyway.

***************

I just posted this slide in another thread a few days ago.

It has some application here too.

By the way I find this to be very good advise. If I was to drop it the split would not parallel the notch. Very good call.
 
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I use a chain instead of cable because it doesn't break. I have climbed too many trees with bolts and broken cable in them. I have used this method many times without any problems.
This method is brand new to me. Can you please explain it a little more--the chain goes around the stem, you say? How is it fastened?

I'd use 14,000 pound test cable and wirestop fasteners, www.rigguy.com You might not be able to get 2/3 the way up, but that is a guideline, not a Rule.
 
This method is brand new to me. Can you please explain it a little more--the chain goes around the stem, you say? How is it fastened?

I'd use 14,000 pound test cable and wirestop fasteners, www.rigguy.com You might not be able to get 2/3 the way up, but that is a guideline, not a Rule.

+1

Chain, huh? How does it attach? The weight must be incredible. Whats the tensile? This is good.

Please provide data.
 
If chain is only as strong as it's weakest link, what can we say about cable?
 
Chain??? Ive seen home owners wrap chain around their partially split tree, they use a chainbinder:dizzy: to connect the two ends, I hope this is not what nailsbeats talking about!!! This does way more harm than Good & is just plain unsightly. Do it right!!



LXT...........
 
I think I will lighten it up a bit and tie the two sides together with a chain. I use a chain instead of cable because it doesn't break. I have climbed too many trees with bolts and broken cable in them. I have used this method many times without any problems. Find some good logging chain on sale and put it up in the top, it's not as noticeable as one might think. I like the location of the tree and it has very good form, so I will doctor it up and keep it. Saved another one. Thank you.
I would like to hear more about this also, never heard of chaining a tree??? some pics please of this process.
 
How do you usually cable a tree correctly. Drill a hole through it with a eye bolt and plate to anchor the cable? It would seem to me that wrapping a chain or cable around the outside of the tree would girdle the trunk after time.

Thanks Billy
 
+1

Chain, huh? How does it attach? The weight must be incredible. Whats the tensile? This is good.

Please provide data.

3/8 log chain grade 70 has a working load limit of 6600lbs, grade 100 is 8,800lbs. You can get 20' with grab hooks on each end for 40 to 50 dollars.

To install the chain make one continuous loop around both leads bringing the ends of the chain together and connecting with one grab hook to a chain link. Then bolt through the chain links right next to the hook so the hook cant come off, still utilizing the strength of the hook. I might do it today and I will get a picture.
 
3/8 log chain grade 70 has a working load limit of 6600lbs, grade 100 is 8,800lbs. You can get 20' with grab hooks on each end for 40 to 50 dollars.

To install the chain make one continuous loop around both leads bringing the ends of the chain together and connecting with one grab hook to a chain link. Then bolt through the chain links right next to the hook so the hook cant come off, still utilizing the strength of the hook. I might do it today and I will get a picture.


what will happen, over the years, to that chain that is wrapped around the leads?
 
make one continuous loop around both leads
ok, i see what you are saying now. Trouble is, the chain would dig into the tree, crushing the inner bark and the cambium, the living part of the tree where the cells divide.

When the tree moves in the wind and as it grows, that crushing would get worse. This is a bad thing, biologically speaking.

Physically speaking, 3/8" cable is 14,000# strong. It would require a 7/16" hole drilled through the stems, and fastened with wirestops, www.rigguy.com.

"If chain is only as strong as it's weakest link, what can we say about cable?"

There is no link in this system; that's the beauty of it.

I see "loop" cabling done a lot; no need to be mean to anyone who proposes it.
 
what will happen, over the years, to that chain that is wrapped around the leads?

The usual tree reaction to something being wrapped around a tree is that the tree will be constricted at the point of the wrap. The wrap will eventually cut off sap flow above the wrap and that part of the tree will die. This is the general process in slower growing trees like oak. In faster growing trees, like mulberry I have seen the tree grow over and around the wrap depending on the material used with limited damage. Wrapping anything around a tree to offer support with the exception of the newer type dynamic cobra elastic rope cabling systems is not recomended.
 
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You are right. She will go down in one piece no problem, but should I take it down at all?

Sorry, so used to everyone wanting to cut them down I just instantly respond this way!!!

I would encourage the cabling, or have an arborist come and look at it.
It's so hard to tell with just a few pictures, I have no idea how deep the inclusion really is. No idea if the bark is getting loose, is the tree starting to die off. Was this a lightning strike that will continue to get worse, etc............
 

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