Ekka
Addicted to ArboristSite
My money is on fungal canker, possibly nectria.
Treatable for sure.
Treatable for sure.
Wounds on a red maple
- Thread starter Woodie
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It is not at all cleaar that he dug down and looked. Find the flare, and do an RCX--Root Crown Examination.
An Rx without an RCX is malpractice.
Woodie, to explain what I mean about tipping back:
When I look at the picture with the entire tree (cute dog, basking at base), I see a nontypical growth pattern at the top of the tree. Maples will normally grow out without "clumping" their new twigs. From the image, this looks like a crown height was selected and apical buds taken off; which causes release of numerous buds clustered at this point instead of the more normal spacing which would occur.
If you did not trim this tree, or have anyone else trim this tree, then I am VERY curious as to what is going on...
Sylvia
When I look at the picture with the entire tree (cute dog, basking at base), I see a nontypical growth pattern at the top of the tree. Maples will normally grow out without "clumping" their new twigs. From the image, this looks like a crown height was selected and apical buds taken off; which causes release of numerous buds clustered at this point instead of the more normal spacing which would occur.
If you did not trim this tree, or have anyone else trim this tree, then I am VERY curious as to what is going on...
Sylvia
Woodie
"Cap'n Bullcrap'n"
Sylvia,
Now I really am curious to know what is going on!
I have not (nor has anyone else!) trimmed anything off the top. The only pruning cuts I have made were to the bottom of the crown. Over the course of two seasons, I removed the lowest limbs, maybe four in all, in order to provide room for walking/mowing. I was very careful to leave the branch collars as well, and they have healed nicely.
I have not touched the top or sides, and all of the growth you are referring to has occured since the tree has been in the ground. (It has grown approximately seven feet since I planted it six years ago.)
As I mentioned earlier, the tree did suffer from chlorosis two summers ago. I had a certified arborist come out, and he did some vertical mulching and fertilization with added Fe and Mn. The soil was 7.0 pH at the time, but I treated the tree with 'homegrown acid rain' last year during the growing season, and it recovered beautifully. (I added a weak solution of laboratory-grade sulfuric acid to a hose-end sprayer and set it to deliver water in the 1.0 - 2.0 range.) I watered thoroughly around the tree, well past the drip zone as well. I plan on pH testing again this year to see how much it lowered things. The leaves remained dark green throughout the season, with not even a hint of veining or scorch.
Soil is heavy clay.
HELP!
p.s. That yellow dog at the base...don't let him fool you...somehow I think he's at the bottom of all this!!
The good news is that improper pruning is not going on. I'm relieved to hear that.
What can happen sometimes is that while we are fixing one problem, we affect another aspect of the delicate balance that exists in nature. I am suspecting the treatment regimen had an effect on the normal growth habit such as possibly stimulating later growth than desired which would have been susceptible to an early frost or winter dessication.
I will double check here that no herbicides were used on the lawn or fertilization other than mentioned wasn't performed. Remember that what you apply to your lawn can affect your tree.
So with these things taken into consideration, this is probably a secondary issue that will resolve itself.
I would proceed with finding the structural roots to confirm that the tree isn't planted too deep. Increase the mulch ring as recommended. One of the many benefits of using organic mulch, particularly whole tree chips, is that as they decompose they help stabilize the soil's pH and nutrient levels, giving back to the tree what it needs. It may not have the "quick fix" results that we so often desire but will be better in the long haul.
Do test before you apply amendments, as you have stated. And remember, sometimes less is more.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Sylvia
What can happen sometimes is that while we are fixing one problem, we affect another aspect of the delicate balance that exists in nature. I am suspecting the treatment regimen had an effect on the normal growth habit such as possibly stimulating later growth than desired which would have been susceptible to an early frost or winter dessication.
I will double check here that no herbicides were used on the lawn or fertilization other than mentioned wasn't performed. Remember that what you apply to your lawn can affect your tree.
So with these things taken into consideration, this is probably a secondary issue that will resolve itself.
I would proceed with finding the structural roots to confirm that the tree isn't planted too deep. Increase the mulch ring as recommended. One of the many benefits of using organic mulch, particularly whole tree chips, is that as they decompose they help stabilize the soil's pH and nutrient levels, giving back to the tree what it needs. It may not have the "quick fix" results that we so often desire but will be better in the long haul.
Do test before you apply amendments, as you have stated. And remember, sometimes less is more.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Sylvia
Woodie, I will add a couple more comments about the Acer rubrum- 'October Glory'
This cultivar was developed as a good fall color displayer for the southeast. It holds its green leaves later in the year, but then in colder climates the fall color may suffer due to early frosts. (Information from Dirr's Woody Manual of Landscape Plants)
I could see how this late transition in Michigan may be problematic at times. It would be hoped that the nursery you purchased this specimen from buys from zone appropriate seed source.
There are also insects that damage the young terminals. But I do not want to encourage you in any way shape or form to spray or treat for anything that has not been positively identified. I am still leaning towards the remedial tx for the chlorosis as the causal agent.
I would call your local extension office (Michigan has an excellent university) to see what are the most common problems in your area as a resource for things to start either ruling out or to be on the lookout for.
One more thing, is your soil devoid of iron and manganese? I was a bit surprised to hear that you had neutral soil, pH of 7.0, and that the tree still showed signs of iron chlorosis. Whereas iron and manganese uptake are declining at that point, red maples are tolerant of soil conditions and should only be showing chlorosis at at high pH. But this may be common in your area. (This last paragraph is more for broadening my knowledge and information than being very helpful to you.)
Sylvia
This cultivar was developed as a good fall color displayer for the southeast. It holds its green leaves later in the year, but then in colder climates the fall color may suffer due to early frosts. (Information from Dirr's Woody Manual of Landscape Plants)
I could see how this late transition in Michigan may be problematic at times. It would be hoped that the nursery you purchased this specimen from buys from zone appropriate seed source.
There are also insects that damage the young terminals. But I do not want to encourage you in any way shape or form to spray or treat for anything that has not been positively identified. I am still leaning towards the remedial tx for the chlorosis as the causal agent.
I would call your local extension office (Michigan has an excellent university) to see what are the most common problems in your area as a resource for things to start either ruling out or to be on the lookout for.
One more thing, is your soil devoid of iron and manganese? I was a bit surprised to hear that you had neutral soil, pH of 7.0, and that the tree still showed signs of iron chlorosis. Whereas iron and manganese uptake are declining at that point, red maples are tolerant of soil conditions and should only be showing chlorosis at at high pH. But this may be common in your area. (This last paragraph is more for broadening my knowledge and information than being very helpful to you.)
Sylvia
PB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sylvia, I will agree with you on the insecticide but the fungicide won't do anything for the tree after it is infected with fungus. Fungicides make a small layer that fungus spores can't penetrate, therefore the fungus can't take hold. It is more of a preventative treatment.
Fungicides, when used appropriately, are tremendous time and money savers in the long run. With a wounded tree, a little insurance goes a long way.
Good luck with the tree Woodie.
Ed Roland
Addicted to ArboristSite
My money is on fungal canker, possibly nectria.
Treatable for sure.
Ekka, would that be to curative effect or the ole 'excise and apply h2o2 or bleach dilute' to lower pathogen population method?
I'm always interested in hearing your management strategies. Your approach to managing Armillaria is especially good.
Ekka
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have written a detailed case study on these trees in similar circumstances on another site, step by step on how I repaired them and what they look like 6 months later. We dont have the easy availability of products like cambistat either.
The most important part for a tree to succeed in fighting fungal pathogens is compartmentalizing the damage, work on that and work on finding an antagonist to the parasitic fungi.
Here's a picture of the trunk on one of them, similar eh.
Prior to my arrival they did have another arborist go out and assess the trees, he told the client it was "parasites" and was going to do some sort of drench. Whilst there were small borer holes and lots of tiny fruit flys buzzing about the borer holes were located to dead or heavily infected areas, the fruit fly were feeding on the secretions.
Solution was stop the fungi, get the tree to compartmentalize and those secondary pathogens would take a hike. Fortunately the client listened to me, the proof is in the pictures. We did do a canopy spray of Confidor after other treatments, soil health treatment, regrade to flare, root pruning and removal of girdling root, wetting agents, mulch and a written maintenance program.
The environment the trees are now in is much more self supportive, no fertilizer or drench pesticides were used.
---------------------
In my experience it's seldom, if ever, one single thing that causes tree decline. Sure there are disease outbreaks but in general for individual trees that aren't part of some targeted outbreak like DED or EAB there's a combination of things going on.
So lots of little things accumulate to make the tree struggle, then the ever present bad guys move in like sharks cleaning the ocean up.
I see people jump on one thing, check trunk flare, you pruned it, bla bla bla but at the end of the day a healthy tree will overcome those things. It's a holistic approach, understanding the environment and how the tree responds. Trees buried too deep send out adventitious roots, they may rot lower but in general they make amends, they want to live. When I see things like this I know roughly how "accumulated" or "compounded" the problems are.... and this case is not that bad.
Most of those cankers have compartmentalized, there is a serious one looming that needs treatment, the tree needs to be in good shape to stop that one spreading.
On those poincianas there was already tiny adventitious roots emanating from the trunk, I rubbed them off and reduced the grade, the client watched and was aghast I was cutting roots off .... "you'll kill the tree!" Not the case at all, repairing the tree and roots do grow again. As there was soil treatments going on infection of those cut roots wasn't a problem.
The most important part for a tree to succeed in fighting fungal pathogens is compartmentalizing the damage, work on that and work on finding an antagonist to the parasitic fungi.
Here's a picture of the trunk on one of them, similar eh.
Prior to my arrival they did have another arborist go out and assess the trees, he told the client it was "parasites" and was going to do some sort of drench. Whilst there were small borer holes and lots of tiny fruit flys buzzing about the borer holes were located to dead or heavily infected areas, the fruit fly were feeding on the secretions.
Solution was stop the fungi, get the tree to compartmentalize and those secondary pathogens would take a hike. Fortunately the client listened to me, the proof is in the pictures. We did do a canopy spray of Confidor after other treatments, soil health treatment, regrade to flare, root pruning and removal of girdling root, wetting agents, mulch and a written maintenance program.
The environment the trees are now in is much more self supportive, no fertilizer or drench pesticides were used.
---------------------
In my experience it's seldom, if ever, one single thing that causes tree decline. Sure there are disease outbreaks but in general for individual trees that aren't part of some targeted outbreak like DED or EAB there's a combination of things going on.
So lots of little things accumulate to make the tree struggle, then the ever present bad guys move in like sharks cleaning the ocean up.
I see people jump on one thing, check trunk flare, you pruned it, bla bla bla but at the end of the day a healthy tree will overcome those things. It's a holistic approach, understanding the environment and how the tree responds. Trees buried too deep send out adventitious roots, they may rot lower but in general they make amends, they want to live. When I see things like this I know roughly how "accumulated" or "compounded" the problems are.... and this case is not that bad.
Most of those cankers have compartmentalized, there is a serious one looming that needs treatment, the tree needs to be in good shape to stop that one spreading.
On those poincianas there was already tiny adventitious roots emanating from the trunk, I rubbed them off and reduced the grade, the client watched and was aghast I was cutting roots off .... "you'll kill the tree!" Not the case at all, repairing the tree and roots do grow again. As there was soil treatments going on infection of those cut roots wasn't a problem.
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Ed Roland
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hey Woodie,
I'm not too surprised to hear about the chlorosis, as red maple are fairly susceptible to manganese chlorosis. When it was treated, was it done with trunk injections or chelated Mn to the soil? If an injection goes in with too much pressure, it can seperate the bark from the cambium. Just a thought...
I'm not too surprised to hear about the chlorosis, as red maple are fairly susceptible to manganese chlorosis. When it was treated, was it done with trunk injections or chelated Mn to the soil? If an injection goes in with too much pressure, it can seperate the bark from the cambium. Just a thought...
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