Yet another oiling issue - Stihl 260 and 026

[kjalaska]

The non adjustable 026 and 260 oilers will put out plenty of oil for 20" bars, mine all do and many I service have 20" bars used more for reach than cutting diameter.I cut 16 - 18 " hardwood with mine and they oil fine, more often its the oil hole in the bar that is too small, make it bigger and oil will flow.

That is also good information. I did experiment with my 20” bar by enlarging the holes slightly but before I got a chance to test cut with it, I scored quite a few 16” 3/8 chains with a ms260 saw purchase. Ended up switching over the 026 to match the 260 but I’ll eventually try out that 20” bar. Thanks for the info and Merry Christmas to everyone!

 

[TheTone]

Has anyone modified the components of oil pumps to give more output? Something like grinding the flat surface of the pump spindle(?) or anything else the tinkerers have come up with. Anyone reverse engineered the high output pumps?

 

[SteveSr]

Has anyone modified the components of oil pumps to give more output? Something like grinding the flat surface of the pump spindle(?) or anything else the tinkerers have come up with. Anyone reverse engineered the high output pumps?

I think that the flat is just a rotating "valve" to direct the oil. To affect the output I think that you have to somehow modify the pump piston stroke. This seems to be what Stihl did on the early oil pumps like the one on my 034S. It has a multi-turn adjustment screw unlike the modern partial turn screws.

 

[KZero]

quick update.

Installed new oil pump, with all the needed parts to upgrade from "non adjustable" to "pro" model.

Do you (or anyone) have a source for those other parts?
So far, I think I've sourced everything but the washer (0000 958 1234.)
Trying to convert my MS260 to adjustable oiler as well, at present it's putting out a bit too much for my tastes.

 

[SteveSr]

Do you (or anyone) have a source for those other parts?
So far, I think I've sourced everything but the washer (0000 958 1234.)
Trying to convert my MS260 to adjustable oiler as well, at present it's putting out a bit too much for my tastes.

Parts are still available from your Stihl dealer but you better be holding onto your wallet. A lot of parts from the pump to the clutch drum have to be replaced and they are not cheap. There used to be a conversion kit but it is NLA.

 

[KZero]

Parts are still available from your Stihl dealer but you better be holding onto your wallet. A lot of parts from the pump to the clutch drum have to be replaced and they are not cheap. There used to be a conversion kit but it is NLA.

I understand what you mean. I wanted to go all OEM, but the only conversion kit I found complete is on ebay. Judging by price, I'd say the parts may be coated in diamond dust...
That's why I was wanting to do individual parts.
I've learned (in this thread and a few others) that the stock MS260 is...generous...with the bar oil. I was messing around with a used one I just acquired, and by the time I got the low and the idle sorted, bar oil was gushing over the sides of the bar, and dripping out of the clutch cover.
I don't know that I NEED an adjustable oiler, but it would sure be handy sometimes!

 

[SteveSr]

I've learned (in this thread and a few others) that the stock MS260 is...generous...with the bar oil. I was messing around with a used one I just acquired, and by the time I got the low and the idle sorted, bar oil was gushing over the sides of the bar, and dripping out of the clutch cover.

In my experience using these for trail work the engine driven oiler will use almost twice the oil as the clutch driven one. The excess oil ends up mostly all over the saw making it a pain to keep clean.

BTW, the 026/260 was the LAST pro saw to get the clutch driven oiler. At the time they were selling the 028 (same 50cc displacement) with a complicated clutch driven oiler. If the 024/026 had it there would be no need for the older, heavier 028.

 

[KZero]

In my experience using these for trail work the engine driven oiler will use almost twice the oil as the clutch driven one. The excess oil ends up mostly all over the saw making it a pain to keep clean.

BTW, the 026/260 was the LAST pro saw to get the clutch driven oiler. At the time they were selling the 028 (same 50cc displacement) with a complicated clutch driven oiler. If the 024/026 had it there would be no need for the older, heavier 028.

Interesting. Maybe I'll just learn to live with it then.
I understand they're great saws, but between my 271 and 362cm, I was a bit taken aback with all the oiling going on. I'll just move the project to the back burner for the time being.
Thanks for all your information!

 

[SteveSr]

Interesting. Maybe I'll just learn to live with it then.
I understand they're great saws, but between my 271 and 362cm, I was a bit taken aback with all the oiling going on. I'll just move the project to the back burner for the time being.
Thanks for all your information!

Best thing to do if you are not actively cutting with it is to cut the saw off.

 

[cooljm1]

Having a similar issue and before i replace the pump thought i would post a video of pumping action from the oiler port.

below is what i have done

1. cleaned area of all debris
2. drained oil, rinse tank with e-free gas.
3. pour e-free gas started it.
a. very little gas comes out see video
4. saw were someone pressurized tank to blow out in dirt in oil line
b. not much change in come out.

so I assuming that need to replace the oil pump.

sorry for the jumpy video, but shouldn't it be really pumping out a lot of the e-free gas in a stream?

with oil in it is not much and pretty sure ruined the bar.

 

[SteveSr]

Having a similar issue and before i replace the pump thought i would post a video of pumping action from the oiler port.

below is what i have done

1. cleaned area of all debris
2. drained oil, rinse tank with e-free gas.
3. pour e-free gas started it.
a. very little gas comes out see video
4. saw were someone pressurized tank to blow out in dirt in oil line
b. not much change in come out.

so I assuming that need to replace the oil pump.

sorry for the jumpy video, but shouldn't it be really pumping out a lot of the e-free gas in a stream?

with oil in it is not much and pretty sure ruined the bar.

Your test is invalid. These pumps are made to pump highly viscous (90 wt+) b&c lube and not gasoline.

If the pump is truly clogged it can usually be cleaned if disassembled. Other cleaning methods usually don't work because there is no straight path through the pump.

Your saw may also be missing the side plate which forms a gasket with the bar.

 

[pioneerguy600]

These oil pumps do not make streams or pressure, they are just a displacement type and just deliver a drool of oil at higher RPM`s.

 

[cooljm1]

Your test is invalid. These pumps are made to pump highly viscous (90 wt+) b&c lube and not gasoline.

If the pump is truly clogged it can usually be cleaned if disassembled. Other cleaning methods usually don't work because there is no straight path through the pump.

Your saw may also be missing the side plate which forms a gasket with the bar.

Thanks for replying. And what you say makes sense. I took side plate of to clean. With oil in it and under load oil does not come out very fast like it did and should. I Will take another video with oil. And will also disassembled the pump (or should I just order a new one?). Thanks again

 

[cooljm1]

These oil pumps do not make streams or pressure, they are just a displacement type and just deliver a drool of oil at higher RPM`s.

Thanks for input. I will put oil in it and post another video. Thanks for responding

 

[SteveSr]

Thanks for replying. And what you say makes sense. I took side plate of to clean. With oil in it and under load oil does not come out very fast like it did and should. I Will take another video with oil. And will also disassembled the pump (or should I just order a new one?). Thanks again

There is too much missing information to provide a good diagnosis...

1. What model and age of saw? Various versions with different oiler configurations were made over about 30 years.
2. Is this an adjustable or fixed output pump? look for the adjustment screw on the bottom of the saw.
3. What kind of bar and chain are you running? Specific part/model numbers/photos would be helpful.
4. If you start with full gas and oil tanks how much oil is left in the tank when the gas runs out?

 

[cooljm1]

There is too much missing information to provide a good diagnosis...

1. What model and age of saw? Various versions with different oiler configurations were made over about 30 years.
2. Is this an adjustable or fixed output pump? look for the adjustment screw on the bottom of the saw.
3. What kind of bar and chain are you running? Specific part/model numbers/photos would be helpful.
4. If you start with full gas and oil tanks how much oil is left in the tank when the gas runs out?

1. It is a 026 Not sure of the exact age got at an auction at least 6 years ago. Has ran fine for years no issues with oil before. (always use bar oil. Tractor Supply/County Line)
2. Just call me a freaking idiot. Yes has adjustment on bottom never realized it was there. What is used to adjust it?
3. Use OEM bar and chain.
4. Think you hit on it lately been using about 1/2 tank oil to tank of fuel (stihl mix and efree gas).

Thanks for educating a jack leg

 

[KZero]

2. Just call me a freaking idiot. Yes has adjustment on bottom never realized it was there. What is used to adjust it?

Go easy on yourself; my drooly saw has the hole same as yours, but still has a non-adjustable pump.
Provided your pump is actually adjustable, it will be done via flat head screwdriver. You'll probably need a flash light to check down in the cutout and look for a screw head.

 

[cooljm1]

Go easy on yourself; my drooly saw has the hole same as yours, but still has a non-adjustable pump.
Provided your pump is actually adjustable, it will be done via flat head screwdriver. You'll probably need a flash light to check down in the cutout and look for a screw head.

Thanks. Tried skinny flat head no dice. Took clutch cover of. And it does not appear to be adjustable. So looks like time to take pump apart or order a new one. Thanks.

*** Oh sorry if I hijacked the thread with my issue

 

[pioneerguy600]

The pump is easy enough to change out but most find the black delivery hose a difficult part to install.

 

[KZero]

The pump is easy enough to change out but most find the black delivery hose a difficult part to install.

I've not actually had to do an install/swap yet, but this gentleman makes that part look fairly straightforward: