Your favorite log splitter design features

[Four Paws]

I am going to be building a splitter this winter. It will be horizontal and along the lines of the larger HD commercial splitters - Timberwolf, Rayco, Iron&Oak, the big Norstar, etc.

I want to take ALL the good features from each machine and incorporate them into my splitter. I would like you guys to chime in with your favorite design features, as well as the design features you absolutely HATE so I can get this thing right the first time. For Example, you may like the wedge design on 'A' splitter but absolutely hate the log lift, and you may really like the log lift on 'B' splitter, but not be too fond of the engine/oil tank placement.

I am interested in ergonomics as well - I want it to be comfortable to operate for hours on end. Beam height, lever placement, etc.

Thanks, Josh

 

[A. Stanton]

I would advise to give it a little height, so you are not stooped over. Be sure to put some strippers on so that the log will be freed on the return if stuck. And make a table. Here's a pic of one I bought on Ebay from a guy with the handle 33flame. He's out of Montana and it costs about $70. I added the diamond plate so that cookies wouldn't fall through. And make sure that you can go vertical to deal with any big stuff if you don't use a lift.
I had some added thoughts: give it some decent tires, in case you go on a highway and add a tool box. It would be handy for spare bolts, tools, etc.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Put the wedge on the ram, Josh. Even with a big ram, you can get stuck, and not be able to push through with the next piece of wood. If you get in that situation, you'll be hammering away with a sledge hammer, wishing you'd put the wedge on the ram. With the proper guard, you can reverse the ram and dislodge a stuck piece.

Don't listen to those who say that you can just push it through, unless you always split wimpy wood!

Take a look at Speeco/Huskee's built-in log cradle. Not only does it keep the rounds from wandering around, it also reinforces the beam. Works very well. I see some pretty nice splitters with a flat top, and I think, "That balancing act would not be fun!". No balancing anything with the Speeco design. Once the round is up there, you could just split it with no hands on the wood at all, if you wanted to.

This is aside from a log lift. That's nice if you're splitting horizontally, but it does a different job than the cradle.

YMMV, void where prohibited, some restrictions apply, see dealer for details. This has been a public service announcement. Not available in all states.

 

[wdchuck]

For trailering, and backing it up into place with a truck or similar, long enough tongue.

For easier road towing, suspension of some kind, maybe something built into the axle......torsion axle?

 

[Four Paws]

Anyone have a good source on hydraulic components besides northern? I don't know much about the valves - there are so many options - I want (at most) a 3-lever valve to handle the splitting ram, log lift and hydraulic wedge.

To touch on some of the comments and suggestions you guys brought up...I got a good buy on a 12' long 10"x28 lb. I-beam, so I have plenty of length and BEEF to make a strong splitter. I plan on the splitter having a nice set of running gear, although I do not plan on towing it much, if at all. I will have a nice log table to save my back and speed up the process of re-splitting the big logs.

I have considered a log lift - however I am wondering if it won't get in the way more often than not. I guess that can always be added at a later date.

I do plan on making a 4-way wedge. Wether it is an adjustable hydraulic 4-way wedge, or simply a manual slip-over type, I haven't decided. Hydraulic is cool, but it raises the cost and will I see a substantial benefit? I like a 6-8" wide piece for easy handling and loading into the stove. I do see the benefit if I have the wedge manually set at say 8" and I have an 10" round - would make more sense to adjust to the middle and end up with two 5" piecesrather than remove it manually and split the round, then each of the pieces again to avoid ending up with kindling.

Thanks for the input, keep it coming!

 

[Chuck Diesel]

I built mine last year and the one thing that i was stuck on was my working height of the machine, so i made sure it was going to be the same height of the tailgate of the truck empty. Which ended up being 32".
My H beam is 8x8 w/ 9/16" flange. 12" wedge from northern tool, 18 hp Briggs, 22 gpm, 25 gal. hyd. tank, cylinder is a 5x2x30".
The only thing that i would change now would be the engine size, i should have gone with a 12 hp.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee.....

Speed like a 2" bore force like 4" bore....
Use this valve.....go for the YDEC: 120 L/min maximum regeneration flow, aluminum housing, .....SUN dealer will help you config....
Use this regenerative valve together with a Prince Logsplitter Valve - LS-3000-2 - Pressure Release Detent - ¾" Work Ports will give you AUTOMATIC 2-speed with a single stage pump...
Set system pressure relief to 3000psi...
Use a 4" bore with a 2" rod cylinder....If you are not going to split longer than 16" don´t go for more than 18"-20" stroke...18" will save you 25% cycle time compaired to 24" stroke....

With a 3500 rpm motor. around 10hp and a 4" bore 2" rod cylinder, 3000psi and the Prince valve and this regenerative valve plus thisHaldex High Performance Gear Pump 0.61 cui pump you will get a super performing splitter....

at 9.25 gpm and 3000psi, how about 18.8 ton/6.4 sec cycle on slow speed, and 4.7 ton/1.6 sec cycle on high speed, retract always 4.8 sec...

speed performance only if engine don´t drop rpm from load....
you need 3/4" 3000psi hoses to cylinder....on high speed your max flow will be 37 gpm!!!!!!!

Read more about pressure sensitive regeneration on this sun pdf...



"Sun" regenerative valve 170$ + shipping from
Hydra-Power Systems, Inc.
5445 NE 122nd Avenue
P.O. Box 20549
Portland, OR 97230
ph# (503) 777-3361
www.hydrapowersystems.com

 

[cityevader]

Working height for sure.
Can't remember where i read it, but 10 inches below the elbow is the optimal working height for counters, tables, etc.
I need to jack mine up to keep my body from giving out.

Wedge height... Whether fixed or moving, it sucks to split through a two foot round with a 6 inch wedge and not actually split it....getting stuck and working it until the two halves split apart....needs a tall wedge!!!

As hotrods have the slogan "no substitute for displacement", same goes for splitters.... big torque and GPM rocks.

Please place the control valve where you can actually reach it, and decide ahead of time if you split right from the truck/trailer or from the pile on the ground, and loading the splitter into/away from the tow-ball....where do you want the rounds and splits to enter exit compared to the delivery vehicle?

 

[Four Paws]

Speed like a 2" bore force like 4" bore....
Use this valve.....go for the YDEC: 120 L/min maximum regeneration flow, aluminum housing, .....SUN dealer will help you config....
Use this regenerative valve together with a Prince Logsplitter Valve - LS-3000-2 - Pressure Release Detent - ¾" Work Ports will give you AUTOMATIC 2-speed with a single stage pump...
Set system pressure relief to 3000psi...
Use a 4" bore with a 2" rod cylinder....If you are not going to split longer than 16" don´t go for more than 18"-20" stroke...18" will save you 25% cycle time compaired to 24" stroke....

With a 3500 rpm motor. around 10hp and a 4" bore 2" rod cylinder, 3000psi and the Prince valve and this regenerative valve plus thisHaldex High Performance Gear Pump 0.61 cui pump you will get a super performing splitter....

at 9.25 gpm and 3000psi, how about 18.8 ton/6.4 sec cycle on slow speed, and 4.7 ton/1.6 sec cycle on high speed, retract always 4.8 sec...

speed performance only if engine don´t drop rpm from load....
you need 3/4" 3000psi hoses to cylinder....on high speed your max flow will be 37 gpm!!!!!!!

Read more about pressure sensitive regeneration on this sun pdf...



"Sun" regenerative valve 170$ + shipping from
Hydra-Power Systems, Inc.
5445 NE 122nd Avenue
P.O. Box 20549
Portland, OR 97230
ph# (503) 777-3361
www.hydrapowersystems.com

Good reading...thanks! I have a 35gpm single stage pump but I think that would be too much - LOL! SO, the sun valve is the way to go instead of using a two-stage pump? The single stage pump is cheaper than the 2-stage, so that will help offset the sun valve.

 

[superfire]

ideas

http://www.surpluscenter.com/ <------- hydra parts
build the splitter so the split piecez go away fro the operators station

like this >

tongue
T
+
I
engine>O I D <oil tank
I
I
I _______I <axle/ beam pivot point/operator station
I
I<ram
I
H
opcorn:

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Good reading...thanks! I have a 35gpm single stage pump but I think that would be too much - LOL! SO, the sun valve is the way to go instead of using a two-stage pump? The single stage pump is cheaper than the 2-stage, so that will help offset the sun valve.

Y Think so, Sun have these valves for bigger cylinders to, if you want more force with a 5"x2"x18".....
Raise the pressure and lower the flow for the same performance......will give you less weight, less power losses due to high flow, less over heating, smaller and less expensive parts up to 3000psi, which is a good pressure level to stay at. Over 3000psi, parts need more advanced engineering and high performance steel and for that starts getting more expensive....next pressure bracket on parts, is 5000psi....
I think most splitters operate at 1500-2500 psi today, and have a 5" bore to compensate that lower pressure. To get a descent cycle time you need to pump around twice the amonut of oil, which takes bigger pump, bigger reservoir, bigger hoses, and give you more over heat problems......

 

[AKKAMAAN]

http://www.surpluscenter.com/ <------- hydra parts
QUOTE]
I like that 10HP Toro diesel w electric start

 

[cabinman]

sweet

Speed like a 2" bore force like 4" bore....
Use this valve.....go for the YDEC: 120 L/min maximum regeneration flow, aluminum housing, .....SUN dealer will help you config....
Use this regenerative valve together with a Prince Logsplitter Valve - LS-3000-2 - Pressure Release Detent - ¾" Work Ports will give you AUTOMATIC 2-speed with a single stage pump...
Set system pressure relief to 3000psi...
Use a 4" bore with a 2" rod cylinder....If you are not going to split longer than 16" don´t go for more than 18"-20" stroke...18" will save you 25% cycle time compaired to 24" stroke....

With a 3500 rpm motor. around 10hp and a 4" bore 2" rod cylinder, 3000psi and the Prince valve and this regenerative valve plus thisHaldex High Performance Gear Pump 0.61 cui pump you will get a super performing splitter....

at 9.25 gpm and 3000psi, how about 18.8 ton/6.4 sec cycle on slow speed, and 4.7 ton/1.6 sec cycle on high speed, retract always 4.8 sec...

speed performance only if engine don´t drop rpm from load....
you need 3/4" 3000psi hoses to cylinder....on high speed your max flow will be 37 gpm!!!!!!!

Read more about pressure sensitive regeneration on this sun pdf...



"Sun" regenerative valve 170$ + shipping from
Hydra-Power Systems, Inc.
5445 NE 122nd Avenue
P.O. Box 20549
Portland, OR 97230
ph# (503) 777-3361
www.hydrapowersystems.com

My Question is ,. Will the valve handle 37 gpm ? Eric

 

[mga]

mount a 12" wedge on the beam. that way, you can always slip on a "four way" if you want to. add wide wings to the back of the wedge to assist in splitting.

adjust the ram so that it stops about 1/2 to 1" away from the wedge at full extend.

 

[blackdoggy]

What cubic inch single stage pump is ideal for a splitter with a 4 inch cylinder?

 

[triptester]

Prince has come out with a new log splitter valve, LSR 3060-3, it looks similar to the regular log splitter valve but operates the same as a regenerative valve at less cost and simpler installation.

 

[Four Paws]

Y Think so, Sun have these valves for bigger cylinders to, if you want more force with a 5"x2"x18".....
Raise the pressure and lower the flow for the same performance......will give you less weight, less power losses due to high flow, less over heating, smaller and less expensive parts up to 3000psi, which is a good pressure level to stay at. Over 3000psi, parts need more advanced engineering and high performance steel and for that starts getting more expensive....next pressure bracket on parts, is 5000psi....
I think most splitters operate at 1500-2500 psi today, and have a 5" bore to compensate that lower pressure. To get a descent cycle time you need to pump around twice the amonut of oil, which takes bigger pump, bigger reservoir, bigger hoses, and give you more over heat problems......

So, you are saying the 35gpm pump would be ok to use if I wanted to go to a larger cylinder?

Tie rod or welded cylinder better? Welded looks better but looks aren't everything.

You think running multiple single-spool log splitter valves is the way to go? Or would I be better to find a 3-spool valve with a detent on 1 spool?

Thanks, Josh

 

[AKKAMAAN]

My Question is ,. Will the valve handle 37 gpm ? Eric

9.25gpm is coming from the pump and 27.7 gpm is regenrated from the rod side of the cylinder. The prince valve is handling the 9.25gpm and the SUN-valve is handling 27.7gpm total 37gpm into the piston.

 

[AKKAMAAN]

Prince has come out with a new log splitter valve, LSR 3060-3, it looks similar to the regular log splitter valve but operates the same as a regenerative valve at less cost and simpler installation.

Yes thats true, but then operator have to deal with 4 positions when operating,

but thge big difference is that the Prince valve is only good for 25gpm extend flow at 4 gpm inlet flow ....
then you are down to lower pump flow AND less than 3.5" bore cylinder....
read Prince pdf here
opcorn:

 

[AKKAMAAN]

So, you are saying the 35gpm pump would be ok to use if I wanted to go to a larger cylinder?

Tie rod or welded cylinder better? Welded looks better but looks aren't everything.

You think running multiple single-spool log splitter valves is the way to go? Or would I be better to find a 3-spool valve with a detent on 1 spool?

Thanks, Josh

HI Josh!

No I didnt say that.

A 35 gpm pump is a HUGE pump on a logsplitter. You need a tractor PTO to turn that pump, very high torque AND low rpm. HOW ARE YOU PLANNING TO POWER THAT PUMP? a 10hp HONDA or a Tractor PTO???

You can use a 35gpm pump into a 25 gpm valve but 40-50% of input power will be wasted to push oil thru an under sized orifice in the valve....OVERHEATING!! QUICKLY!!

When you look at pumps, DON'T look at the advertized "22gpm" or"35gpm", because it don't tell you everthing you need to know.

You need to know following:
Pump Displcement in cui/rev like 0.61 cui/rev
max Speed recommendation like 4000 rpm
Max pressure like 3500 psi.

From this you can figure flow in gpm. For every 1000rpm this pump will make 610 cui=2.64 gpm

It's the same thing with the cylinder. You need to know following:
Bore diam, like 4" bore
Rod diam, like 2" diam
stroke lenght. like 24"
Max pressure, like 3000psi

The valve.....
Max flow rating, like 25gpm
max pressure, like 3500psi

I have an Excel spreadsheat I use to calculate this.....I dont know if you are familiar with Excel, but you are free to use my spread sheet...