Yes, My question is what part of the carburetor is defective that would cause it to be constantly out of adjustment? It's a homelite super 2. I have a carb. kit on order and I think it's the diaphragm. I have had the old one out but it looks good, only a little stiff. I have adjusted it(running good) picked it up and before I could start to cut it was out of adjustment? I do have another question that may shed a little light on this, the gas tank cap had a bulb on it but it cracked in a million pieces. Will this affect the carb. adjustment? I tried to order a new one but the shop owner said it was no longer available. How about a leaky gasket? Seems like through the years I've had this happen before and never fully understood just what caused this? Any help would be appreciated.
Zama Carburetor Question.........
- Thread starter CanamTim
- Start date
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bullseye13
ArboristSite Guru
Take the bar cover and recoil off and wiggle the flywheel and clutch at the same time to check crank bearings. Last super 2 i had ended up with trashed crank bearings that ruined the seals from the crank floppin around which caused an air leak. It is possible for the carb to have a leaky welch plug or a bad check valve though.
I'm sure I checked that but I will do It again to make sure. I was just thinking I have an Echo weedeater that's about 28 years old and it's never been in the shop, never needed adjustments, never failed me. And yes I use it every summer. All I do is drain the fuel each winter and put fuel in it the next spring and she's ready.
I think bad the bulb can affect it. But I'm not sure... I can't remember how they are set up. I've fixed several of those saws that had bad fuel lines. If your going to rebuild the carb, put new lines on.
Here's a tip. Take a picture of the carb and fuel line routing before you remove the carb. As you know, it's a tangled mess under that cover. Plus the oiler line hooked to the carb. The first time I did one, I didn't take a pic and spent hours trying to figure the routing out.
Here's a tip. Take a picture of the carb and fuel line routing before you remove the carb. As you know, it's a tangled mess under that cover. Plus the oiler line hooked to the carb. The first time I did one, I didn't take a pic and spent hours trying to figure the routing out.
Most definitely
Yes, the line from the old gas cap goes directly to the metering chamber, via a little fitting on the carb side.
Either plug the line that goes to that carb fitting, or pull the line off of the carb & put a cap on the brass carb fitting.
Yes, the line from the old gas cap goes directly to the metering chamber, via a little fitting on the carb side.
Either plug the line that goes to that carb fitting, or pull the line off of the carb & put a cap on the brass carb fitting.
chainsawlady
Junior Member
Ok, I believe I got this little saw running like it should. The kit came in and I got it back together and tuned it. I started it a day later and after it warmed up it seemed to run just like it did the day before. It's been a challenge, but I like that from time to time. I hope to take it to the woods and try it out soon.
