chains won't self feed?

[Tree Sling'r]

Dress your stone to get a clean sharp corner, side angle edge needs a sharp corner on top to work with.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

The chains are a mix of semi chisel and chisel... they've all been fighting me. That just happened to be the one I took pics of.

As far as the depth gauge, I'm going to try and redo it. It's the correct height though, if anything a bit too low? That chain is maybe 50% and I'm well under 50% of the depth gauge.

 

[Skeans]

The corner is still rounded, all dull material needs to be removed for a good sharp and self feeding chain.

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[ChoppyChoppy]

Like I said in the other post, I took pics to show the angles and it just so happened that one tooth that I got focused in had a chip on the corner.

The corner is still rounded, all dull material needs to be removed for a good sharp and self feeding chain.

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[Philbert]

It's hard to go just by a photo - we're arm chair quarterbacking the best as we can!

Philbert

 

[Skeans]

Now I've had on the short bars 28" down bars one rail had more weat and wouldn't feed even with a good chain.

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[weedkilla]

I'd try the shape on your depth gauges.
Keep the depth gauge parallel to the witness mark, so the rear of the depth gauge is the highest point.
Leave the rear height the same, just angle them down at the front.

I grind them to height and put a smooth curve on the front with a file. Makes a smoother cutting chain. Adds 5 minutes to a sharpening.
I've looked at ways to get the same effect with a grinder, but haven't come up with a brain wave yet. I only grind 28" and up anyway.

 

[mountainlake]

Rakers look high to me also for a chain that's over half gone, you will get by with a couple of the cutters with damaged corners but if they all are your going to have to grind back to a good corner. If your customers don't like you grinding off half the tooth tell them to quit sawing rocks. Steve

 

[heyduke]

It's something to do with the chains. I tried 4 or 5 loops the other day and all the same issue. Last night I pulled the one off my 036 and sharpened it, thinking maybe I was half asleep when I sharpened them or who knows and it still cuts the same.

Today I took that chain and put it on my 460 and same trouble. Unless that bar is goobered up too I don't think it's a bar issue.

If I push, it cuts ok. Depth gauges are at the correct height.

your depth gauges are ground "backwards." they should slope down toward the front. 10 degrees is considered to be good. try adjusting the angle on the back of the grinder, or dress the angle into the wheel. with the slope in the wrong direction they can cause the cutter to lift out of the wood, as if they were too high. forget about finishing the depth gauges with a file. you don't have time for that. also, you have to grind all the damage off the cutter. yes, i know customers get irritated that so much of the cutter is gone, but they're the ones who ran it in the dirt or hit a rock. sometimes i just refuse to sharpen a damaged chain. it's extra time and bother and then you've got a pissed-off customer. lastly, i'd like to see a picture of your wheel that shows the dressed shape.

 

[Trx250r180]

Hope this helps ,threw a 3/8 chain in the usg last night and did a test cutter in round ,this works good in softwoods and self feeds well with high rakers
Grinder angles i use for round ,the usg may take different angles than common oregon grinder ,but you can play with angles till close .Hopefully pics show wheel placement on cutter for reference ,the grey Stihl wheel seems to not heat up the cutter as bad as the common pink wheels sold also ,and seems to give me a sharper edge .
My milling round chain is much less aggressive i set top at 10 ,and base at zero instead of
20 , with the 20 degree top plate i use over 30 ,the outer corner stays pointed much longer ,and gives a longer lasting chain for work .In my opinion low rakes are a bandaid fix for a dull chain .I try to stay .020-.025 ,anything more makes a jerky grabby chain that bogs power ,and does not bore cut well .

 

[Trx250r180]

Cutter pics with wheel set up like that

 

[Trx250r180]

And a test cutter of .404 using same grinder angles

 

[redoakman]

It's something to do with the chains. I tried 4 or 5 loops the other day and all the same issue. Last night I pulled the one off my 036 and sharpened it, thinking maybe I was half asleep when I sharpened them or who knows and it still cuts the same.

Today I took that chain and put it on my 460 and same trouble. Unless that bar is goobered up too I don't think it's a bar issue.

If I push, it cuts ok. Depth gauges are at the correct height.

when u have to apply force its either dull or somthing isent strieght.

 

[super3]

Depth gauges are at the correct height

Not if you are using the gauge in post #2. Use a progressive gauge like others have said.

Keep grinding till there is no longer a rounded corner no matter how much you have to take off the tooth.
It isn't sharp till the round part is gone, chisel or semi.

 

[lone wolf]

I don't grind right or left in any specific order. I normally just start with whatever the grinder happens to be set at, or if it's a goobered up hand filed chain I pick the shorter ones to do first.
I adjust the grinder between right and left so they are the same length, depth etc... generally just a small adjustment.

I don't get super fussy on the grinding job, I guess we can call it a "woods" grind. It's worked just fine for a while, not sure what has changed.

Pics are a few different teeth, they are all ground the same though. Yes I realize the chisel corner isn't 100%. I normally get the bulk of them but also try to not remove too much material. Sort of a "bad habit" of customers getting upset otherwise when their cutters are 1/2 ground off to get it perfect.

Last pic is setup of grinders. Green one is the one I'm using for the cutters and the middle Oregon one is for rakers. Bar grinder on the far left (yes the wheel is about worn out, I'm getting my money's worth!)


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Looks like you went too deep and didnt get the top sharp . Try filing it higher and paying attention to get the top real sharp and pointed.

 

[heyduke]

And a test cutter of .404 using same grinder angles
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what kind of wheel. it's pretty coarse, probably cuts cool.

 

[Trx250r180]

what kind of wheel. it's pretty coarse, probably cuts cool.

It is a stihl wheel ,i think the arbor hole is different than oregon though

 

[Philbert]

(I didn't think that Brian even looked at round ground chains . . . . !)

Philbert

 

[Trx250r180]

(I didn't think that Brian even looked at round ground chains . . . . !)

Philbert

I mill with round ,because i have not figured out how to get a 10 degree top plate on the silvey yet the usg does a nice job on the round though ,cuts almost as smooth as square ,but can feel a little more grab in it ,if you noticed i put "demo" in my description for the round the usg is normally what i clean the gullets with when do square .

 

[KiwiBro]

Put the depth gauge back on the shelf, designate one chain as a test chain, drop the rakers way below what you are used to, go buck a log, and then if too aggressive ground tiny amounts off the cutters and check how it cuts, rinse and repeat until you hit a sweet spot for that wood, then grab a digital angle finder and read the angle from tip of cutter to raker. That's your magic number, regardless of what depth the raker and cutter is.

I've got a few 'angry bastard' chains with rakers angles that are steep, that are plenty of fun when bucking soft wood, but there's no way I'd use 'em when felling a gum. Horses (raker angles) for course.