chains won't self feed?

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You have your grinding crew all lined out in your shop - bolted to your bench. I take mine out in the field - even when I am home I prefer to grind outdoors. So I like the capability to do different wheels/chains on the same grinder.

Philbert


In the field if a chain is dull or out of gas/oil, just grab another saw. Kind of like a bass fisherman grabbing a pole rather than tying on another bait.
 
Philbert I have four different grinders and only one pulls double duty of rakers that's my Oregon 510, otherwise they are all purpose built as all silvey grinders.

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Excellent, care to share a pics of the grinders?:rock2:
 
621b575185fa801f0958d07ef4b3c37a.jpg
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Double duty for the 510 oregon is only doing rakers of both the saw chain and 3/4 harvester.

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I use a 5.5 mm file from new to about half tooth, and then 4.8 mm from half tooth till no tooth standing - 3/8" .0058" chisel chains by Dolmar, Oregon and Carlton.
This practice works quite nice for me for the past 9 years.

A 5.2 mm seems to be recommended as a whole tooth length universal file for the chains I use?!
Never tried this one file for the entire tooth practice.

Sorry for the sizes stated in millimeters , wouldn't know out of my head how they translate to inches.

3/16=4.8mm, 13/64=5.2mm, 7/32=5.5mm

I think he means 3/16, not 9/16??
 
Who do I have to marry to get into your will?

(Very nice setup!)

Philbert
Remember they are only as good as the operator running them, I've had a few updates on the pro sharp since it's an older one the rest just get new wheels and dressers.

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Not sure what the deal is.

Been having issues lately. I've got maybe 12-15 loops. Fresh sharpen, they cut nice but I have to push pretty hard. If I just let the saw sit in the cut on its own weight it won't really cut.

Depth gauges are at a good height. I sharpen lots of chains, only seems to be mine having issues.

I haven't changed anything I do, I've been using the same type of grinder fo nany years.r


chains on backwards!
 
VF,
I see you have the Oregon sharpener ............ it may have been covered already, but what are the settings on it to produce the cutter in your pictures


I also believe that your arm needs to be angled more to give you a sharper top plate cutter, as well as give you more hook under the top plate

If I am guessing, it looks like you are running 60 or 65 degrees on the arm, if thats the case, drop the arm down to 55, and grind down to the gullet
What was it set to ........... 65 or 60 ?
I put the grinder to 55* and that seems to be the ticket. Just got done sharpening about 3 dozen chains.
Its all about the hook .................... happy it worked out for you
 
Here's a snip from the first picture. Looks to me like the side is worn and needs to come back to the blue line. I've typically seen this on stump chains.


chain.PNG
 
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