Any good reference for a electric saw for carving

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bikemike

loud pipes save lives
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Just wondering if any of you carvers use any cheep 110v electric saws for carving and what saws can be fitted with a carve dime nose kit? If you can list a model of saw and a carving kit that would be great info. Some of my neighbors are getting peeved with my saws. So I'd like to tone it down a bit
 
I'm just a hobby carver that doesn't do a lot of carving. But I did pick this up cheap on eBay so I can carve in my shop without all the noise and fumes. Have only used it a little but works ok. Certainly wouldn't recommend it for heavy use as its quality is what u would expect from a Chinese homeowner grade product. But as an entry level piece to try it out it's hard to beat the price:
image.jpg
Refurb. That is shipped to your door price too.
 
I'm just a hobby carver that doesn't do a lot of carving. But I did pick this up cheap on eBay so I can carve in my shop without all the noise and fumes. Have only used it a little but works ok. Certainly wouldn't recommend it for heavy use as its quality is what u would expect from a Chinese homeowner grade product. But as an entry level piece to try it out it's hard to beat the price:
View attachment 491133
Refurb. That is shipped to your door price too.
Do you have a carve bar kit on you saw?
 
I carve 4 days a week usually and just picked up a stihl msa 200 C-BQ from the local stihl dealer for just over 300$. It is battery powered and still has good power. Can use it anywhere would highly recommend. I was looking for electric saw for carving in my shop until I stumbled upon this saw.
 
Electric saws- very first ting to do is look up parts availability for the big drive ( ring gear) inside unit- these are plastic and if you jam the chain in any fashion it will get stripped. Just had a customer with a brand new one, A poulan 3.5hp can't get just the gear got to buy the drive system at more than the box store retail price of the unit new- so buyers beware. This hasn't been the case in the past with poulan as most of the former models the gear was around $16 or less ( still too much but it is what it is) It is a chi-com mfg product ( i think they all are). I could not get anywhere with anyone at Husky to get just the gear. Ya I went all the way back to Husky proper and still got the run-a-round . A note: many many years ago this gear was , for lack of a better term pot metal not plastic, those lasted a bit longer. On a positive note that motor is going to make a great depth gauge grinder
 
Electric saws- very first ting to do is look up parts availability for the big drive ( ring gear) inside unit- these are plastic and if you jam the chain in any fashion it will get stripped. Just had a customer with a brand new one, A poulan 3.5hp can't get just the gear got to buy the drive system at more than the box store retail price of the unit new- so buyers beware. This hasn't been the case in the past with poulan as most of the former models the gear was around $16 or less ( still too much but it is what it is) It is a chi-com mfg product ( i think they all are). I could not get anywhere with anyone at Husky to get just the gear. Ya I went all the way back to Husky proper and still got the run-a-round . A note: many many years ago this gear was , for lack of a better term pot metal not plastic, those lasted a bit longer. On a positive note that motor is going to make a great depth gauge grinder
Yeah that's why I'm asking about what can work. Had a few remington saws gears would strip out. And it wasn't a replacement part for the main output
 
Bikemike, the makita electric chainsaw is a great option for carving. I have 3 of them currently and for the better part of a year they were what I used until I found a spot to carve with my gas saws. The model number is uc4035 I believe off the top of my head. If you have a Home Depot with a rental department you can get them for about $100-$125.00. You can modify a dolmar sprocket to convert them to a rim system and then run a 1/4" pitch chain and dime tip bar. I highly recommend the 1/4" .043 guage stihl chain and the 12" cannon dime tip in .043 guage also. Let me know if you have any questions, I'd be happy to help you out if I can.
 
Bikemike, the makita electric chainsaw is a great option for carving. I have 3 of them currently and for the better part of a year they were what I used until I found a spot to carve with my gas saws. The model number is uc4035 I believe off the top of my head. If you have a Home Depot with a rental department you can get them for about $100-$125.00. You can modify a dolmar sprocket to convert them to a rim system and then run a 1/4" pitch chain and dime tip bar. I highly recommend the 1/4" .043 guage stihl chain and the 12" cannon dime tip in .043 guage also. Let me know if you have any questions, I'd be happy to help you out if I can.
Awesome thank you very much
 
Src360ss, do you happen to have a link, or any info on where to purchase the 1/4" sprocket for the Makita saw? Thanks
 
I'm not a carver, I have carved only once and result was not much, but certainly I will try some other time, however I have few experiences with electric saws and own a few so I try to share what I have learned.

Electric saw that I use most is Jonsered EL-14 from ~1990 that is still running strong, it is built such way that it will last almost forever as it has a clutch that is engaged normally and slips if chains gets stuck or one pushes too hard.

Clutch has also sprocket like normal saws, not sure where to get replacements at this age though as saw is ancient history in electronics world.

Good bit on that saw is that it is fairly light, slim body, has handle that somewhat resembles handle of normal saw, so you can operate it on it's side too if needed, also bar is same as on 345 husky or 2145 Jonsered saws, which means there is plenty of bar options available.

Bad bit is that chain speed is fairly low and .325 .058 chain is bit much for 1400 watt saw, also finding one might be a challenge, mine is around 26 years old.

Many modern electric saws seem to have motor mounted under the handle on side of the saw body, which in my opinion makes balance of saw quite terrible when all the weight is in motor and that is not centered to saw body.

Another thing to consider is throttle switch safety button, on some electric saws this is really stiff, which makes your thumb hurt after a minute of constant use.

On some lower price range products kick back system has brake band that tends to grab quite a bit even when squeezing throttle switch should release it, so good bit of saws power turns into heat and noise, so power they get to cutting is not always seen from how much power they draw.
 
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