How would you drop this? What saw?

[jughead500]

Another PLMCRZY!

Yeap plmcrzy treatment.

 

[Red97]

The textured wedges work pretty good, although for bucking a smooth wedge is fine, the ones with actual teeth are overrated. I usually have a double taper 8" on hand for bucking or for when one wants to sit back, it has a very narrow nose on it.

For what yer up to any ole cheap wedge will be fine, They even have em at the hardware store next to the green or orange saws.

Thank you, I have a chunk of nylon sitting here I can make a couple out of. Do you recommend single taper or double?

 

[Red97]

Serrated would be better.smooth tends to slip or bounce.
How much more clean up do you have to do? Or at least have planned? Just my Opinion but one of these here could be your best friend.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wyeth-Scott...192?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e90368e8
Take it from me.I grew up on a farm and these make absolute hairy situations a Cake walk.I've had an Case IH 4240 swinging off of one of these.actually tied to a Bull Pine on a Slate rock cliff dangling 12 feet to the Creek bed.hard situation to explain but I saved a super bad situation from turning worse for those that wouldn't listen to me.
Also doubled running 2 of these I extracted a 4'x12'white pine log from between a rock ledge and another tree that wasn't coming down.Took 6 hours but I got it out.

I have a few of those but the problem is nothing to attatch to really. in the middle of the field and I need to pick up stuff. I am going to try the wedge technique first and see how that goes.

I don't really have to clean up any of this. I need the firewood, and I would rather buck and split this stuff vs scrounge around through the woods to get the small stuff. Between the first tree in the thread and this would probably heat me for 2 years. I used less than 6-7 full cord last winter.

 

[northmanlogging]

Meh... The double are good for tight spots or for lifting a really heavy tree, otherwise singles are fine for everything.

Not real sure as to what wedges are made of, not a plastics guy, but seems like nylon wouldn't be my first choice... perhaps delrin or some sort of acrylic? But if its what you have then make it work. Most wedges are about 1" on the thick end, and around 3" wide, the K+H 8's are more like 3/4" thick, and my favorites

 

[7sleeper]

I'd take off the root ball first. That way you eliminate the tension in the tree when cutting off pieces.

7

 

[olyman]

Another PLMCRZY!

 

[sachsmo]

So I have this big fella, I believe it is oak. split in thirds. About 24" still holding 40" thick, close to 70ft tall. What is the safest way to drop it? To keep it chainsaw related what saw would you use?



I am trying to get the wood before it gets snowed in.

That tree is going to go right where it wants to.

Remember a tree will always try to kill the person cutting it down, be careful!

 

[Chris-PA]

As to the original tree, I would give consideration to cleaning/moving the wood on the ground (if it's not still attached) and then building a fire with the trash at the base. That punky stiff will catch and burn until out the inside. The only real downside is that it's near impossible to put out a fire burning in a rotten tree core and you might lose a lot of viable firewood.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Although I only read the first four pages, I got a lot of laughs, especially the tree ape bashing. Lol.
The tree looks to be an elm or soft maple and is obviously committed to the open field.
If the split goes down to stump height, treat it as two separate trees.
If the split is high enough, make your cuts as low as possible. Most importanly make all your cuts accurately.
Better still, get someone who knows what their doing, not someone who thinks they do.

 

[jughead500]

As to the original tree, I would give consideration to cleaning/moving the wood on the ground (if it's not still attached) and then building a fire with the trash at the base. That punky stiff will catch and burn until out the inside. The only real downside is that it's near impossible to put out a fire burning in a rotten tree core and you might lose a lot of viable firewood.

In this case loosing some or all of the firewood would be better than loosing a life.

 

[Red97]

In this case loosing some or all of the firewood would be better than loosing a life.

I agree 100% with that.

I am going to leave the first tree alone, just skid the dropped stuff out of the way and chop it up. Then buck up the other trees that are already on the ground in the other location.

 

[Guido Salvage]

I would still slide a few logs under the trunk to support it. Once to take the crotch of stump off you will release the pressure and can drop each round as you cut it.

 

[old guy]

That old cast iron comealong has saved my butt many many times, and I have pulled down dozens of trees that could not be trusted to fall by themselves.

John

 

[wyk]

Meh... The double are good for tight spots or for lifting a really heavy tree, otherwise singles are fine for everything.

Not real sure as to what wedges are made of, not a plastics guy, but seems like nylon wouldn't be my first choice... perhaps delrin or some sort of acrylic? But if its what you have then make it work. Most wedges are about 1" on the thick end, and around 3" wide, the K+H 8's are more like 3/4" thick, and my favorites

Not sure it matters so much when the price is free. Plastic wedges are literally stupid money here in Ireland for any real sizes. I make mine from oak. I make em in 1 and 2" lift sizes, and 8-11" long. If I have to hammer the **** out of one, I do. If it dies, I make another. And being seasoned oak, cut along the grain, you will have to beat **** out of it to make it fail.

 

[Chris-PA]

Not sure it matters so much when the price is free. Plastic wedges are literally stupid money here in Ireland for any real sizes. I make mine from oak. I make em in 1 and 2" lift sizes, and 8-11" long. If I have to hammer the **** out of one, I do. If it dies, I make another. And being seasoned oak, cut along the grain, you will have to beat **** out of it to make it fail.

Thanks for that idea - I just cut a branch off an white oak that had been dead for a long time. It would be great for that.

 

[Red97]

As to the original tree, I would give consideration to cleaning/moving the wood on the ground (if it's not still attached) and then building a fire with the trash at the base. That punky stiff will catch and burn until out the inside. The only real downside is that it's near impossible to put out a fire burning in a rotten tree core and you might lose a lot of viable firewood.

I started cleaning some of the dropped sections of the first tree today, not thinking it is normal oak anymore, the bigger straight chunks are very stringy and very hard my fiskars splitter likes to bounce off.

I cut up 3 branches to the trunk and this is the result


1/2 ton springs don't like me today. lol

 

[lone wolf]

I started cleaning some of the dropped sections of the first tree today, not thinking it is normal oak anymore, the bigger straight chunks are very stringy and very hard my fiskars splitter likes to bounce off.

I cut up 3 branches to the trunk and this is the result


1/2 ton springs don't like me today. lol

If those other pics in there are the same tree I suspect it is Oaage Orange or Mulberry.

 

[Red97]

If those other pics in there are the same tree I suspect it is Oaage Orange or Mulberry.

It is pretty gnarly stuff the bigger it gets, and very solid. does seem to burn real hot too. The wood in the truck is from the first tree in the thread. waiting on a overrun starter bearing for my big saw to buck up the big logs.

 

[lone wolf]

It is pretty gnarly stuff the bigger it gets, and very solid. does seem to burn real hot too. The wood in the truck is from the first tree in the thread. waiting on a overrun starter bearing for my big saw to buck up the big logs.

We need one more guy to look at it but i think so.

 

[RandyMac]

just when ya think you got it