jughead500
Sasquatch
Yeap plmcrzy treatment.Another PLMCRZY!
Yeap plmcrzy treatment.Another PLMCRZY!
The textured wedges work pretty good, although for bucking a smooth wedge is fine, the ones with actual teeth are overrated. I usually have a double taper 8" on hand for bucking or for when one wants to sit back, it has a very narrow nose on it.
For what yer up to any ole cheap wedge will be fine, They even have em at the hardware store next to the green or orange saws.
Serrated would be better.smooth tends to slip or bounce.
How much more clean up do you have to do? Or at least have planned? Just my Opinion but one of these here could be your best friend.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wyeth-Scott...192?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19e90368e8
Take it from me.I grew up on a farm and these make absolute hairy situations a Cake walk.I've had an Case IH 4240 swinging off of one of these.actually tied to a Bull Pine on a Slate rock cliff dangling 12 feet to the Creek bed.hard situation to explain but I saved a super bad situation from turning worse for those that wouldn't listen to me.
Also doubled running 2 of these I extracted a 4'x12'white pine log from between a rock ledge and another tree that wasn't coming down.Took 6 hours but I got it out.
Another PLMCRZY!
In this case loosing some or all of the firewood would be better than loosing a life.As to the original tree, I would give consideration to cleaning/moving the wood on the ground (if it's not still attached) and then building a fire with the trash at the base. That punky stiff will catch and burn until out the inside. The only real downside is that it's near impossible to put out a fire burning in a rotten tree core and you might lose a lot of viable firewood.
In this case loosing some or all of the firewood would be better than loosing a life.
Meh... The double are good for tight spots or for lifting a really heavy tree, otherwise singles are fine for everything.
Not real sure as to what wedges are made of, not a plastics guy, but seems like nylon wouldn't be my first choice... perhaps delrin or some sort of acrylic? But if its what you have then make it work. Most wedges are about 1" on the thick end, and around 3" wide, the K+H 8's are more like 3/4" thick, and my favorites
Thanks for that idea - I just cut a branch off an white oak that had been dead for a long time. It would be great for that.Not sure it matters so much when the price is free. Plastic wedges are literally stupid money here in Ireland for any real sizes. I make mine from oak. I make em in 1 and 2" lift sizes, and 8-11" long. If I have to hammer the **** out of one, I do. If it dies, I make another. And being seasoned oak, cut along the grain, you will have to beat **** out of it to make it fail.
As to the original tree, I would give consideration to cleaning/moving the wood on the ground (if it's not still attached) and then building a fire with the trash at the base. That punky stiff will catch and burn until out the inside. The only real downside is that it's near impossible to put out a fire burning in a rotten tree core and you might lose a lot of viable firewood.
If those other pics in there are the same tree I suspect it is Oaage Orange or Mulberry.I started cleaning some of the dropped sections of the first tree today, not thinking it is normal oak anymore, the bigger straight chunks are very stringy and very hard my fiskars splitter likes to bounce off.
I cut up 3 branches to the trunk and this is the result
1/2 ton springs don't like me today. lol
If those other pics in there are the same tree I suspect it is Oaage Orange or Mulberry.
We need one more guy to look at it but i think so.It is pretty gnarly stuff the bigger it gets, and very solid. does seem to burn real hot too. The wood in the truck is from the first tree in the thread. waiting on a overrun starter bearing for my big saw to buck up the big logs.
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