Round Filing

[SAWMIKAZE]

Is anyone else not able to see pics in this thread ?

 

[KG441c]

I can see them? Lean ur phone out alil on the h!!

 

[MustangMike]

I see it, but I'm on a computer, not a phone.

There are other times I don't see them, I think you just need the software that is compatible with the pic.

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

Im on a phone , that must be it

 

[SAWMIKAZE]

I have some leftover 43 gauge safety chain from a 170 from years back that im workin on because i have nothin better to do , and ill just use it up on top handles til its all used up

I know the general consensus is that this stuff is useless , im gonna try to make it cut the best i can for the hell of it

 

[Trx250r180]

Looks like if put it in the chain grinder backwards ,you can cut the safety rakers off ,i have a couple stihl pico chains ,semi chisel with safety rakers ,i use for cutting fence post tops after the fence is done ,it splinters way less for carpentry work ,not so aggressive as reg chisel chain

 

[Philbert]

. . .I know the general consensus is that this stuff is useless ,

It cuts fine on stuff where the bar is not buried, and where you don't need to bore cut, if it is properly sharpened. Might not cut as fast in a timed setting, and does not clear chips as well on longer bars. But not a real issue for most firewood and storm clean up type tasks. I always accept it when people say they are 'going to throw it out'.

That said, I prefer the center, drive link bumpers, over the side, tie strap bumpers: they interfere less and are easier to sharpen in my opinion. I have even seen chain with drive link bumpers win races at GTGs, over 'yellow' chain, because . . . . . (wait for it) . . . . sharpness and cutting technique also matter.

Philbert

Drive Link Low Kickback Bumpers


Tie Strap Low Kickback Bumpers

 

[Deets066]

I hand file, I used to suck really bad, but with a lot of reading on the science of it, I've improved dramatically. I file from the inside out, there's less chance of what Deets posted (slashed finger) when your applied force goes away from the sharp edge of the chain than when you're going into it

I'm a lefty, so I do some things backward.. I file the right side while straddling the powerhead, so I'm using my dominant hand to control the file, then I turn the saw 90* clockwise (CCW for right handers) and file the left side, giving my dominant hand control of the file once again. Also, when you have a worn bar that allows the chain to flop a little, filing from the inside give you a more consistent, non chattering cut, and it's easier to line up the file with the top of the tooth.

For the rakers I use a triangular 3/8th file, and with my right hand protect the cutting edge of the tooth, and start my cut with the file flat, rotating it so I take more off the front of the raker as I move, again I do this from the inside out.

I've found MOST saws that don't cut straight are due to the rakers being filed wrong on one side of the chain, not from the cutting edge.. If the saw cuts TO THE RIGHT, it means the RIGHT rakers are TOO LOW.. depending on the severity, a couple strokes on each will fix it up nicely.

All my chain is full chisel 3/8th, though I would like some semi-chisel for dirtier wood. I know I've filed 1000's of chains less than the gurus on here, but this is just what works for me.. What do I know, I'm just a dumb farmer

My dad was a wood carver for years, professional at it at some points in his life.. Yes, his chisels are RAZOR sharp!

That cut wasn't from sharpening, the saw was running when that happend

 

[Gypo Logger]

I was thinking about filing today, cause I ground a chain for the first time in awhile in my 511a.
My settings on the grinder are 30 degree top plate angle and 75 degree tilt. When done the cutter almost looked sq. grd when looking at the side plate because I only dress the wheel on one side and dress the bottom of the wheel flat so as to get the gullet better. Then I got to thinking about round filing and that maybe 7/32 is too small and that a quarter inch file would be better on all but the newest 3/8" chain.
Just trying to think outside of the box.
John

 

[Philbert]

That's one of the benefits of sharpening your own chains - you get to try things and see how they work for you, with your saws, and the type of cutting you do!

Philbert

 

[Rx7man]

That cut wasn't from sharpening, the saw was running when that happend

Note to self: Do not sharpen a chainsaw backwards while it's running!

I was thinking about filing today, cause I ground a chain for the first time in awhile in my 511a.
My settings on the grinder are 30 degree top plate angle and 75 degree tilt. When done the cutter almost looked sq. grd when looking at the side plate because I only dress the wheel on one side and dress the bottom of the wheel flat so as to get the gullet better. Then I got to thinking about round filing and that maybe 7/32 is too small and that a quarter inch file would be better on all but the newest 3/8" chain.
Just trying to think outside of the box.
John

The 3/8 Stihl RS chain I have recommends a 13/64" file, as well as most of the others.. the bigger the file the less hook... I think going up to 7/32 is fine, but getting up to 1/4 might be a little excessive

 

[Gypo Logger]

I was also thinking that I have been inadvertently compensating with a 7/32 by tilting it as much as 30 degrees up or down depending upon what I think the cutter needs. Maybe a 1/4 file would make that much of a tilt unnecessary., plus it would look after the gullet better and reduce the hook in the side plate. Just a silly 32nd bigger. I'll have to try it, but have no 1/4" files yet.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Dull hoe's only take one drink!

Anyway we wouldn't ridicule as were all bro's here!

I can't seem to get any results using the search box for 046 piston/272xp.... Any hints? Lol

Note to self: Do not sharpen a chainsaw backwards while it's running!



The 3/8 Stihl RS chain I have recommends a 13/64" file, as well as most of the others.. the bigger the file the less hook... I think going up to 7/32 is fine, but getting up to 1/4 might be a little excessive

You may have a point there. I used a 7/32 on a used 325 pitch with great results so maybe 1/4" file is proportionately the same on 3/8. I think it's worth a try. Can't recall what is recommended for 404.

 

[Rx7man]

It's only a 1/32 bigger than a 7/32, but it's 3/32 (nearly 1/8") bigger than what's recommended. If you're going for a really shallow hook, then sure, but at the same time the angle along the bottom side of the top plate will be equally steep, which I think would make it slower.
It's not as bad as using too small a file though!

 

[KG441c]

I like using 7/32 on a new 3/8 chain and about halfway through chain life switch to a 13/64

 

[Rx7man]

That sounds reasonable to me

 

[Moparmyway]

I like the idea of at least trying the .250 file ........... if you go low into the gullet, you might not find too much difference in the hook.
I have noticed that a chain with a clean gullet allways keeps the cutters edge longer ............ maybe I am nutz

 

[KG441c]

Are we talking about using a 1/4 file on 3/8? I know I used 1/4 file on a oregon ck square chain that I filed out round and it worked well

 

[Deets066]

I use 7/32, I have not tried 1/4 but I could see it workin on a new chain. It might be too much at about half life in chain?

 

[Gypo Logger]

Maybe the trouble with a .250 file is that it may not fit between the raker and the cutter when the chain is new.
When we look at Oregons filing recommendations they want you to hold the file high under the cutter. I find this to be a physical impossibility, plus it starts to make a high gullet right from the start even if I could file this way.
That's why I tilt the file down some 30 degrees. My last stroke of the file is from the cutter to the back of the raker so that the gullet is progressively maintaimed.
Although it looks like I'm playing a violin when I file, my cutters are pretty much identical and make the trees piss their roots. Lol
John