MillerModSaws Stares Down the 7310/7910

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This one like so many 440/460s I've ran across is gonna need some carb love. I have lost my L Speed control. So I will iron that out as soon as the saw cools. I took it out on its initial run in maple. That's what I had close. It's still lightly fourstrocking in the cut at 12600. The Rev limiter is kicking in at 12900. Now if I put any pressure on the saw it cleans right up. But that gives you an idea of how close these run to the rev limiter. Lol.
 
Ok boys give me a few days. New coil and some new bits on the way to get the carb where it needs to be and to make it an unlimited coil (272xp). And i can't get the clutch off to do the oiler mod so I ordered that tool too. Lol.
 
Free porting is when the bottom of the piston goes higher than the floor of the exhaust. So in essence when the piston is at TDC and you look into the exhaust you can look into the cranckcase. I've seen arguments both ways some say a little free porting is ok. My main concern weathers its ok or not has to do with the longevity of the motor. If your free porting and have the exhaust ported out big the piston can actually rock into the port causing premature ware on the bottom of the piston skirts.
 
I want to add I have free ported them but just don't think it's the best idea for an everyday ported work saw!
 
Free porting is when the bottom of the piston goes higher than the floor of the exhaust. So in essence when the piston is at TDC and you look into the exhaust you can look into the cranckcase. I've seen arguments both ways some say a little free porting is ok. My main concern weathers its ok or not has to do with the longevity of the motor. If your free porting and have the exhaust ported out big the piston can actually rock into the port causing premature ware on the bottom of the piston skirts.
Thanks ,makes sense .go too wide like the old days woods ports and the piston will not last long .
 
Ok boys I'm still waiting on some drills but I'm gonna go ahead and do the oiler mod. There's a few threads on here of how to do this but simply unscrew the white cap. Pull out the spring and rod. Mill the end of the rod market with an M 10° steeper. Polish smooth with sand paper and reassemble. That little step right that makes quite a difference in the way these oil. 20150910_160100.jpg
 

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if i remember right jared didnt think just doing that mod alone would result in more oil flow but rich and me both experienced some gains from it. not much but since its an easy thing to do it is worth doing.


@jar944
the modified pump has a displacement of .4cc the stock pump has .28cc.
the plunger was milled at a 30* angle vs the stock 20*dolmar oil pump 1.jpg dolmar oil pump 2.jpg
 
I drill my bar out also to help even more.
Carl, experiance the mod on my 7900 I sent him, and he could see a difference and asked about it.

Like Nate said it's sure worth a try since it's pretty easy to do!!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
I drill my bar out also to help even more.
Carl, experiance the mod on my 7900 I sent him, and he could see a difference and asked about it.

Like Nate said it's sure worth a try since it's pretty easy to do!!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

+1
Even with my modified pump the bar port would occasionally plug and starve the chain. opening it up stopped that.
 
if i remember right jared didnt think just doing that mod alone would result in more oil flow but rich and me both experienced some gains from it. not much but since its an easy thing to do it is worth doing.

Yeah after hearing about the positive results of just modifying the rotor, I went back and looked @ the adjustment "screw". i dont remember the specifics, but you will get more pump displacement with just the rotor mod.

alternatively you could drill out the screw "nub" and epoxy in a short section of tig rod to make it a bit longer (and wear better) just grind it to the length you want.
 
Yeah after hearing about the positive results of just modifying the rotor, I went back and looked @ the adjustment "screw". i dont remember the specifics, but you will get more pump displacement with just the rotor mod.

alternatively you could drill out the screw "nub" and epoxy in a short section of tig rod to make it a bit longer (and wear better) just grind it to the length you want.
Thank you my man. Always glad to have more input!
 
Thank you my man. Always glad to have more input!

No problem, glad I could help. With a 20" bar and the pump set to max, it looks like the Exon Valdez ran aground on the bar.

Also you can easily use all the oil before the fuel runs out, so be mindful of that if you set it to "11"
 
No problem, glad I could help. With a 20" bar and the pump set to max, it looks like the Exon Valdez ran aground on the bar.

Also you can easily use all the oil before the fuel runs out, so be mindful of that if you set it to "11"
your phone was probably blowing up from all the people mentioning your name. You ever decide on a mill?
 
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