Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
Tested open air with plug out.
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
- Start date
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Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
Usually just pops. Sometimes hits 5 or six strokes and never hits unless the throttle is locked open. Plug gets wet easy. That could be a carb issue, but I'm thinking more and more that I have an ignition issue.
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
OK Gonna take it apart this weekend and check points, condenser, and flywheel key. Thanks for all the advice. I'll post results.
chainsawlady
Junior Member
Leroy
I have new condensers for the Homelite C-series saws, but no points.
chainsawlady
100 is low for them. 140 would be a good runner.
I know it has been told before but I cannot find the post, how does the "T" oil fitting go in a super 2 oil tank?
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
I pulled the flywheel and points were at .019". I cleaned them and set to .015". I didn't have a meter to check the condenser, but it looked good with no damage to the lead. Put it back together and after several fights with the Fairbanks Morse starter the spark looked the same. Now it will run off a prime. I even kept it going for about 15 seconds by squirting mix in the carb. I took the carb down again and sealed the Welch plug(it didn't fit tight when I put it in)and rechecked everything. Drained the tank and put in fresh non ethanol 40:1 mix with Stihl Ultra oil. Same results.
So, could the crank seals be shot and not pulling fuel from the carb. and not charging the cylinder correctly? To start at all I have to squirt mix in carb with throttle locked and crank 3-4 pulls. This yields about 1 second of run time with a puff of smoke at the beginning and clear exhaust at the end.
Gonna tear it down and inspect seals and install new piston and rings. Any tricks to getting these apart?
I already took it back to the owner, he was in a hurry to get it back, of course I get that a lot.
The Super 2 I have doesn't have a T. It has a line going from the case to a diaphragm and another coming from the diaphragm to the top of the tank with a duckbill on the end and another one going from the oil pick up in the tank to the back of the bar mount, hooked to a nipple. The newer ones have a little bit more plumbing, maybe they have a T somewhere..
I've never taken a 330 apart when it didn't need a new intake boot. I would check that very carefully if you still have it apart, it's something that will cause a lean condition if cracked or broken.
Car-guy2
ArboristSite Member
I had already checked the boot, but checked it again on the second teardown. Absolutely no tears, cracks, or pinholes, but I wasn't convinced that the plate that holds it and the reeds down was sealing against the boot. So I made a gasket to put between the plate and the boot. Not sure if that helped or if I got something out of the carb this time, but it runs better. Still a little erratic idling but not too bad.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Hey guys, I found this thread while searching. I'm looking for some help with my homelite 410 I just got. It's been sitting about 7 years or longer with gas in the tank. Does anyone know the correct H/L screw settings so I can take them out and clean the ports? Should I completely take the carb off or try and get it running first? I'm waiting on a fuel cap gasket at the moment and the two air filter gaskets. I have a boot on order as well and need to replace the fuel lines. But I cant find where the line goes from the carb. Anyone know how to take this saw apart?
I made a thread here.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/homelite-410-help.300028/
I made a thread here.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/homelite-410-help.300028/
