Woodblocker55
ArboristSite Operative
Tapatalk doesn't like my edited drawings lol but I think it's right now.
Woodblocker55
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Woodblocker55
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Shop Re-Sharpened Chains vs. Factory
- Thread starter John Lyngdal
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I noticed several that were blue though you couldn't see it looking from the top down. So much for you don't need to pay attention because the Dinosaw cyclone wheel keeps them cool. After reading this thread I also noticed how filthy my wheel is. I better clean it as well. Ron
Cleaning Stick from Norton
38A220/1-H8VBE 61463610103
Don't know how much of those numbers you need.
I show the cleaning stick to fastenal with those numbers on it and more show up.
hedge hog
ArboristSite Guru
Do you have any luck with the cleaning sticks?
The sticks that came with my diamond wheel don't seem to do that good
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I got a Diamond Brand CBN wheel.
The stick that came with it worked. And so do these.
These I use on my diamond wheels too.
It eats it right up but that dull surface cuts so nice and cool and doesn't have that sound that is like nails on a chalkboard to a tool&cutter grinder like me.
hedge hog
ArboristSite Guru
Wow
Nice job!
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Nice job!
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Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks
I have not tried it, but I had an older man tell me that a 20 degree top plate angle stays sharp for a long time and cuts good too....he said he has been grinding his customers chains like that for years.....now this was not in person I met him on a chainsaw site, so I/we can take that with a grain of salt.....
Someone should start a thread here that's just for grinding chains....I started one at O&@ forum and it's been a great ongoing thread with lots of pics and tricks from guys that have been grinding/sharpening for years!!!!!
Look forward to seeing more pics from you, I absolutely love your set-up man....it's one of the coolest I have seen and as you can tell I am obsessed with grinding and have seen quite a few!!!!!
hey man your chains look great.....would be sweet if you lived close to me, we could do some experiments with angles and come up with some great chains......
I have not tried it, but I had an older man tell me that a 20 degree top plate angle stays sharp for a long time and cuts good too....he said he has been grinding his customers chains like that for years.....now this was not in person I met him on a chainsaw site, so I/we can take that with a grain of salt.....
Someone should start a thread here that's just for grinding chains....I started one at O&@ forum and it's been a great ongoing thread with lots of pics and tricks from guys that have been grinding/sharpening for years!!!!!
Look forward to seeing more pics from you, I absolutely love your set-up man....it's one of the coolest I have seen and as you can tell I am obsessed with grinding and have seen quite a few!!!!!
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would like to say thank-you to all you guys ,especially HH for taking the time to post up these pics and show how to properly sharpen a chain with a grinder. That Stihl grinder HH has is impressive and his custom set up is so cool it looks very professional. That Stihl grinder is very similar to my old clunker, if I was to take the plunge and buy one I think we would get along just fine.
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hello sir, have you ever cleaned your wheel....if that wheels is loaded it will cause that little bit of burning on the tips....
I know I can still burn a cutter with my CBN wheel, but i would have to try and take a lot of material off to do it.....
Just keep doing the tap-tap-tap method and you will be fine...
What angles are you using on your tecomec grinder??
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Getting there, it has been a long time since I got so involved in the process of sharpening a chainsaw chain , measuring tooth length, checking depth gauges and looking at cutter profiles , grinding bar rails on some of my old bars and sharpening chain.
Yesterday I did a little experiment with my 046 , cleaned up the rails on an old bar and hand filed an old but still good RS chain. Cut very good and smooth but wandered to the left a little in the cut. Sharpened that same chain in the grinder to see if there was a difference , it did OK but not as fast as the hand filing, I had to redo the depth gauges and then it cut great like the hand filing and cut straight in the wood . I really didn't think the chain was that far off to begin as far as tooth length but when the chain was on the grinder you see how much difference there was in tooth length by how much was being taken off. It wasn't much but in the same respect it was enough that in the end all the cutters were the same length. I measured also and both the right and left cutters were the same length which made the saw cut straighter in the wood
I am coming around to the idea that machine grinding can accomplish the same results as hand filing it the machine is set up properly and a gentle touch when grinding the teeth.
Yesterday I did a little experiment with my 046 , cleaned up the rails on an old bar and hand filed an old but still good RS chain. Cut very good and smooth but wandered to the left a little in the cut. Sharpened that same chain in the grinder to see if there was a difference , it did OK but not as fast as the hand filing, I had to redo the depth gauges and then it cut great like the hand filing and cut straight in the wood . I really didn't think the chain was that far off to begin as far as tooth length but when the chain was on the grinder you see how much difference there was in tooth length by how much was being taken off. It wasn't much but in the same respect it was enough that in the end all the cutters were the same length. I measured also and both the right and left cutters were the same length which made the saw cut straighter in the wood
I am coming around to the idea that machine grinding can accomplish the same results as hand filing it the machine is set up properly and a gentle touch when grinding the teeth.
Never been cleaned. I tried to find the above referenced Norton stick on the Fastenal website but couldn't.
I normally do 30* 60* no tilt on Stihl chisel. 35* 90* no tilt on semi-chisel. Those in the photo were done 35* 60* no tilt. I forgot to change back to 30* so I just kept going. Won't matter much how long they'll stay sharp as this Saturday they'll be on my saws in the hands of amateurs that hit the dirt so often that all I get done is changing chains. I wish I had more semi-chisel for the event.
Two of the chains will never be sharpened again as there would be no overlap left. Maybe in the next few months I can sharpen some to compare.
Ron
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Did they send a dressing stick with your wheel....were did you get it...I heard those are top of the line wheels...mine is a diamond brand wheel...
No stick included. I got it from Bailey's. I was so ignorant that I didn't know for at least two years and 100+ sharpenings that the wheel was mislabeled and undersized. I intend to buy the right size (5mm) at some point. In the meantime I am trying to get better with a file.
Ron
Ron
Woodblocker55
ArboristSite Operative
You guys are getting deep enough in to grinding look in the enco website . For cleaning stick . It's all machinist stuff.
[emoji41]
Woodblocker55
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When fastenal doesn't stock something they will usually buy it thru third party.
Or Contact Norton.
Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
well it was mislabeled, so I can see how that would go un-noticed....if you use that on the right size chain youbwill get great results!!!!
hedge hog
ArboristSite Guru
I have only tried 30-35 as a top plate angle and for a while I used 32 1/2
They say the harder the wood is the greater the angle needs to be
Hedge is my main cutting wood and I could not tell any difference between
30 to 35
I stick with 30 because the customers
I ran a 55 degree hook for a while and could see a difference and touch up filing is one to two pass max because the file would only contact the upper part of the cutter and won't drag in the gullet but my 441 c-m would break a few cutters in really hard hedge that I would get into
Customers that don't file get 60 degrees
Ones that do and mine get 58 degrees
hedge hog
ArboristSite Guru
55 seem to cut faster but dulled fast but filed faster but tended to break on my big saw
The next time I rock a chain out I will try 20 degrees
Because I use 20 to take damaged part of the point of the cutter off with less heat because I'm not cutting the full length of the top plate
Then I come back 30 with only just a kiss to the point of the cutter and the tail of the top plate is getting ground
Works great
As for grinders they are all good as the operators
And lighting is best friend
If it wasn't for the contract to sharpen the .404 205 DL I don't know what brand of grinder I would be using but I would have one
And CBN is a no brainer now
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The next time I rock a chain out I will try 20 degrees
Because I use 20 to take damaged part of the point of the cutter off with less heat because I'm not cutting the full length of the top plate
Then I come back 30 with only just a kiss to the point of the cutter and the tail of the top plate is getting ground
Works great
As for grinders they are all good as the operators
And lighting is best friend
If it wasn't for the contract to sharpen the .404 205 DL I don't know what brand of grinder I would be using but I would have one
And CBN is a no brainer now
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
