If you notice some of the links in the reposting that have AS links dont even work here anymore. The info was lost here. = Shame IMHO
Nik's Poulan Thread
- Thread starter FATGUY
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Minor or not, thank you for your contribution, and to everyone else who put it together. That list is amazing to say the least.
Kensie1988
Vintage Saw Maniac
So I managed to snatch this off a local buy/sale/trade site, I'm hoping to find the muffler cover and screws to go back into the muffler.
It was kept it as a Word doc so it could be updated as new info became available. If I get any new info I could pass it along to you as well to add to the pdf. There were indeed a lot of people who contributed and every bit large or small is of value when someone is looking.
There also may be some errors so members are advised to take measurements before ordering parts to see if the listed seal or bearing look right. There's no way to check if sizes could have changed through the saws production period.
It would be nice if the all the sites had libraries of docs etc that could be downloaded. The collectors site has that but unfortunately many of the members that possess the material ask to be e-mailed for the docs and they are no longer active members. A lot are stored on cloud sites that become inactive as well.
Thanks for cleaning it up Poge.
Any additions are welcomed.
You be the man Tim. You have made some good contributions over the years.
Nice find Kensie1988. Looks to be in pretty good shape. Have you fired it up yet.
Very nice find.
I doubt you have a easy time finding that muffler baffle, they were always missing. I did get lucky to get a complete NOS muffler a while back. I won't put it on a saw at this time but do use the baffle as a template to make new ones.
All you need is a piece of 1/8" aluminum flat bar, cut it and drill it. If you want I could put the NOS baffle on the scanner to make a pattern for you to use.
Here is one that I made for my 45. I also have the 46 just like yours
Got the 4200 coming fossil, can't wait to get it and to get started. [emoji23]
Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Steve, Samsung On5 using Tapatalk
Right the word doc I started has been edited and added on to all the time. Works best that way and includes a lot more then what I gave to Aaron at that time and what he has listed now, save the little bit of Homelite numbers he does have. I have started some others for other brands as well. Chris has some other brands listed that I intend to get from him to add to my list's as well. Chris just fixed me up with some seals for a Remington that he had archived.
I have never had much interest in listing bearings as 95 percent of the bearings in the older saws have part numbers on them.
Just looking at my list, Kinises 46 uses a Dichtomatic 068091VM seal on the fw side and 2 SKF 6105 on the PTO side.
Credit Hotshot for coming up with the Dichtomatic seals, there the only ones we found in that size.
My bearing shop orders those seals no problems.
Kensie1988
Vintage Saw Maniac
That would be awesome, I can draw over it in autoCAD and print a pattern out for me to use!
Kensie1988
Vintage Saw Maniac
And I have, it's not pulling fuel but I expected that, it does run on prime and has amazing compression, it has very light scoring on the piston but this is going to be a display piece once I get it running and make a cut with it, so there is no need for the piston to be pristine. When I talked to the guy I bought it from, he said he found the thing in the middle of a major four lane road at night, some woman almost hit it.
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks good. May want to consider new riings but I'd do a compression test first. Be advised that 3400's don't have very high compression and 130-135 is very good and that's w/o a base gasket. They run very well at 125. I'd replace seals as a matter of good practice.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
National seals will be ordered today and ill see about testing its compression before i finish tearing everything off. Most is already off the body of the saw. Is the 3.7 i have a 3400 or a 3700? Any way to tell? Whats the difference?
Thanks Roger. Most of what I learned the easy way came for the good folks on ths thread. There were some "learned the hard way" stuff as well though.
3700 = thin rings, 3400 = thick rings, 3800 = thick rings, measure the bore to be certain.
Ginger, the easiest way to tell is to put something that will mark like a popsicle stick or plastic straw into the center of the exhaust port, push to the back of the cylinder and run the piston up against it hard enough to leave a mark.
Back the piston off and measure from the end of the stick or straw to the mark.
The bore size diameters for this series are,
3400 1.810"
3700 1.875"
3800 1.880"
4000 1.935"
The 3400 and 3800 have thick piston rings and the 3700 and 4000 have thin rings. See picture attached.
Your saw was most commonly a 3700 but there are some 3800's out there. Thin ring on the left, thick on the right.
Thanks Mark. I added that to the list.
Tim those two seal numbers were very common to a whole lot of the sand cast reduction drive saws. Most of the direct drives used a different PTO seal.
Ginger15
ArboristSite Guru
Sounds like a good reason to have a Popsicle on this hot day.
Will give it a try and report back. I think I saw thin rings but dont remember after 2 days.
Gosh, wait until you get to my age.
Similar threads
