Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Hopefully that is the only major spot.
It's good thats on a panel that's replaceable, sucks when the whole car just rots out. People give me a hard time about being so picky about rust, then they cry when they spend thousands on repairs and find out their ride is rusted thru on the frame.
Do you guys have much salt on the roads there. It's bad here, everything is white with salt :baba:.
Yea, it is pretty bad here, the Mustang seemed to endure it much better than my Escape did. When the Mustang is on the lift I often get comments on how rust free it looks.
 
Well, there's a LOT of street bikes today that will run in the 10's...

Back in the day I had a bike that ran in the low 12's, and I didn't have any problem with any street legal mustang, big block or not!

SR
Back in the day there were no crotch rocket bikes, and no other Mustangs ever beat my 427 or 390 either!

I would not run cars that were tubbed or had slicks, but after I put the slapper traction bars on the 427 I did not loose any more races, and I never lost a race with the 390, that car was insane, and it walked away from everyone I raced. I'm sure Ford sold me the wrong solid lifter cam, and it was far more aggressive than what I had intended. (They only made 2 solid lifter cams for it, the street one that I ordered had 306 duration the one they ran at NASCAR had 320 duration).

The cam would not open the vacuum secondaries on the Holley 735 carb, so we put and 800 Holley Double Pumper on it and it was a beast! No low-end torque, but at 3,500 RPMs it would pin you to the back of the seat. It came on like a turbo.
 
Yea, it is pretty bad here, the Mustang seemed to endure it much better than my Escape did. When the Mustang is on the lift I often get comments on how rust free it looks.
Lots of inferior metal used in cars these days. The actual Japanese, German built cars, and a few others have superior metal and finishes than much of what is produced here unfortunately. I see so many vehicles newer than yours that make me cringe when I see the rust, especially knowing what they cost new. Then I see older Lexus LS400's(like early 90s) with no rust on them. I know keeping them in a garage and off the grass helps a lot, but when you start with something that's cheaply built they really go fast. Sad seeing any 2010 or newer vehicle with terrible rust.
My excursion was mainly used for pulling a camper in the summer by the guy I got it from. If a guy isn't concerned with having 4wd, then buying something that's hauled a camper around in the summer and is stored in the winter is a good way to go.
 
They really been working on clear cutting down the street with the feller buncher. Most of what I seen was popple. My dad who lives down the street gets all the details from a chatty Kathy across the street. I'm curious to know how much money is being exchanged. They must have a processor because I have not heard any chainsaws doing any limbing or bucking. I know one thing that's gonna be some great grouse hunting for the next 15 yearsIMG_20230110_170354928.jpg
 
Did the front axle ujoints today. The Tiger tool came and I had to try it . Worked way better than my press but I had to finesse it to work properly . Even though it says it works on the AAM front differential it’s a tad to small . I’m calling them tomorrow to see if the larger one would work . If so I’ll buy it next time I do the repair FC29007B-F49D-4810-A9BD-A9C1BBE250B2.jpeg
Ya they were toast
F8415A89-D9C9-4753-831C-EA28556C7819.jpeg2C52E867-6636-4B5F-AAF3-E80FCE45FD8C.jpeg
This was the problem couldn’t get a the tool to press out the cap on a straight line . It worked but I’m sure it was binding up a little

5E6F4B57-9807-4D6E-8CF9-E08189E45FB9.jpeg
The spicer joints are much heavier duty than the cheap Chinese junk I put in a few years ago 7C93810F-021A-4D89-BFFC-D187D4DD7118.jpeg
 
Here’s an example of why to get away from the tree.


They only broke three rules, I learned in grade school.
1) any one who is not falling a tree, should not be within falling range of the tree.
2)the person falling the tree should not stand behind the tree, but to the side.
3) when the tree falls, the person & saw moves 90 degrees of the falling tree, at a fast walk.
 
They only broke three rules, I learned in grade school.
1) any one who is not falling a tree, should not be within falling range of the tree.
2)the person falling the tree should not stand behind the tree, but to the side.
3) when the tree falls, the person & saw moves 90 degrees of the falling tree, at a fast walk.
All that video needed was a ladder😆
 
I've found that bigger chain is more durable than smaller chain. My mill with 3/8 hits a piece of barbed wire in a log and it's done for the day. My mill with 404 hits the same barbed wire in a log and it clips it off and only dulls 1 or 2 teeth. I'll just keep cutting firewood with my Homelite Super 1050, 24" bar, and 1/2" chain. I'm getting too old to get philosophical about chain. I know if you stick any of it in the ground it gets dull fast.
Very good to know. I tried buying some .404 full chisel to square grind and Bailey is out of it and won't be getting it in again. Same with Madsen's. I try not to geek out on chain too much but when I have my coffee rolling it just happens. Do you know if square ground .404 chain would be any good for milling?
 
Very good to know. I tried buying some .404 full chisel to square grind and Bailey is out of it and won't be getting it in again. Same with Madsen's. I try not to geek out on chain too much but when I have my coffee rolling it just happens. Do you know if square ground .404 chain would be any good for milling?
@SeMoTony he is really good at milling and knowledge on the subject.
 
Here’s a few pictures of the rod building process. The red wraps were my practice wraps and the blue were final.

This was a lot of fun. I’m excited to try this out because the components on this rod were much more expensive than any rod I’ve ever used. I normally fish with $50-$80 rods and this one cost over $300 just for components.

View attachment 1047662View attachment 1047663View attachment 1047664View attachment 1047665View attachment 1047666View attachment 1047667View attachment 1047668View attachment 1047669View attachment 1047670View attachment 1047671
Very nice!! What blank did you build?? What did you use for guides??
 
Did the front axle ujoints today. The Tiger tool came and I had to try it . Worked way better than my press but I had to finesse it to work properly . Even though it says it works on the AAM front differential it’s a tad to small . I’m calling them tomorrow to see if the larger one would work . If so I’ll buy it next time I do the repair 



Ya they were toast







This was the problem couldn’t get a the tool to press out the cap on a straight line . It worked but I’m sure it was binding up a little











The spicer joints are much heavier duty than the cheap Chinese junk I put in a few yeArs ago 
When I built my 79 and swapped a 12 valve in it I went to 1410 Spicer ujoints for the rear drive shaft and left the 1350 joints up front. Shortly after I got the truck on the road and replaced the single disk clutch with a twin disk that would hold the power from the engine I started blowing drive train parts up. Those Spicer u joints were the first to go. Can't remember what brand I switched to, super joint comes to mind. Thy would break right behind the cap area. Place that made the drive shafts suggested a super joint. Can't remember who made them, but haven't broken a rear u joint since.
 
I recently bought 100 55 gr V-Max bullets to reload, only to discover that I had an old box of 250 that I had barely used, so I decided to take inventory of the 22 bullets I've horded over the decades.

Turns out I don't need to buy anymore 22 bullets for quite a while. I have over 3,000 bullets in 13 different configurations from 40 gr Hp to 55 gr TTSX.

Most were purchased in bulk quite a while ago, including: 800 - 55 gr Hornady Softpoint and 850 Reminton 55 gr Hp. and a recent purchase of 400 (remaining) Hornady 55 gr Hp.

Both my Ruger American Rifle in 223 and my M-77 in 220 Swift like the 55 gr Hornady Hp bullets. The 220 Swift also likes the 55 gr V-Max bullets, but the 223 does not like them so much. The 223 likes the 52 Gr Hornady Hp match bullets, while the 220 likes the Siera's more, and likes the 53 gr a little better than the 52 gr.

I was disappointed that Midway stopped selling the Hornady 55 gr Hp bullets, and no one else seems to have them. Would be nice to just keep one bullet that both guns like. I guess my current supply will last me a few years.
Send them my way!!!! I have 5 .223’s!!!
 
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