044 Handle Repair Pictorial

[teacherman]

Sticky?

That is quite a compliment. Let's wait and see how it turns out.

It's a pretty simple step by step procedure. The main thing is to be patient and break it up into three pours. Here is pour #3:

A view of the pour site.

Need to plug this hole to allow for handle reassembly and later service.

A two stage plug to fill the hole and allow a channel for reinstallation of the screw. I need to allow space for the JB to fully enclose the reinforcing wire.

Packing the clay into the hole to ensure a quality result.

Placing a small dam to allow some pour depth at the bottom. Can be ground off later. So much for no sanding required....LOL

 

[parrisw]

Gosh......Yer tryin' to make me hafta buy a new hat? Make my head swell up and all.....:greenchainsaw:

It's a pretty simple step by step procedure. The main thing is to be patient and break it up into three pours. Here is pour #3:

A view of the pour site.

A two stage plug to fill the hole and allow a channel for reinstallation of the screw. I need to allow space for the JB to fully enclose the reinforcing wire.

I thought this was about fixing a chainsaw!!

 

[teacherman]

Now for the critical part....

A simple matter to attach a bit of clay to recreate the form of the missing nylon section.

Several views.

The last pour.

 

[forestryworks]

I thought this was about fixing a chainsaw!!

you're drinking too fast already

 

[teacherman]

One thing to note.

I used a toothpick to shove some JB under the cylindrical piece. I could/should have tilted the saw to the left and right to allow the JB to flow in there. I expect a void or two from trapped air.

I am interested to see how it looks. Tomorrow. On this I will wait 24 hours because the JB is not fully contained by the nylon handle, and I want it to be hardened before I remove the clay support.

 

[teacherman]

I'm looking forward to your "Michelangelo" on that missing chunk.LOL!!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

Definitely not Michelangelo. He was a genius. I am a hack in comparison.
I couldn't even find my clay tools, so this was done with fingers and a bamboo skewer. I expect to do some shaping with a file.

 

[parrisw]

you're drinking too fast already

LOL, ya, I need another!!!!!!!

 

[Metals406]

Will water dissolve the clay to remove it all?

 

[teacherman]

Will water dissolve the clay to remove it all?

No, it is oil based modeling clay that will not harden. That is an idea: Use ceramic clay, let it harden, pour.

This clay remains soft, and it can be dug out of the recesses with whatever is handy. Imperial Cleaner, naptha, paint thinner, etc. will soften and dissolve it. WD-40 will function as a mold release.

 

[Metals406]

No, it is oil based modeling clay that will not harden. That is an idea: Use ceramic clay, let it harden, pour.

This clay remains soft, and it can be dug out of the recesses with whatever is handy. Imperial Cleaner, naptha, paint thinner, etc. will soften and dissolve it. WD-40 will function as a mold release.

I can see the 'lost wax' process working well for this application too.

Has anyone used that Supermend epoxy before? My wifes uncle swears by it.

Dries white as well.

 

[teacherman]

The End Result.

Well, I took the clay off, and it looks like the repair will be a decent one. Here are some pics:

Here it is before sanding. The other angles did not focus well, for some reason.

Not perfect, but I can live with it. I have already come up with an alternative method.......

 

[Rftreeman]

That looks great, thanks for posting the step by step pictures, they will be used well.

 

[teacherman]

Here are a few more pics:

Obviously I need to finish sanding the bottom.

Can anyone tell me what detail I did not account for, and now need to deal with? This is an 044.

 

[Metals406]

I think it looks good!

What's your alternative method?

 

[Brownpot Deaton]

AWESOME INFO thread!!!

 

[teacherman]

I think it looks good!

What's your alternative method?

Heeeheeeheee don't ya love the suspense?:hmm3grin2orange:

Lemme answer the question from the last picture and I'll explain.

That's right, I did not look forward of the rear part of the grip cover. There is a projection behind the trigger interlock that is obstructed by a large chunk of JB. See the black mark in the previous pic.
Some drilling is in order, but I extended the wire far enough forward, that I will modify the little flange some to avoid exposing the wire.

 

[teacherman]

Alternative Method....

OK. I like everything about this except that my clay form did not make for a perfect contour on the missing portion of the handle. Pressing the clay on pushed the clay into the repair area, so there is an indentation where the JB meets the nylon. Cosmetic only, I know. The fix is permanent, and FAR stronger than the original handle, and it is pretty decent looking. Now my idea for improvement.

First, I will sculpt the handle with clay to resemble the original contour exactly. A patternmaker's effort.

Then I will brush on some silicone caulk that has had the acetic acid washed out of it with water, then thinned back down with toluene (cures quickly, still brushable)

When this dries, I will make a plaster reinforcement around the silicone, using polyester quilt fabric as a substrate, like making a cast for a broken arm. This is normally called a "mother mold."

Finally, I will remove the mold, clean off every last bit of clay, then proceed as I did on this one.

Unfortunately, I do not have another broken handle to try this out on.

 

[Jacob J.]

I can see the 'lost wax' process working well for this application too.

Has anyone used that Supermend epoxy before? My wifes uncle swears by it.

Dries white as well.

Supermend does a pretty good job repairing the modern Stihl fuel tanks. It doesn't have the torsional strength of JB weld but it does resist gas and oil well. We've patched a few landing saw tanks with it and had it hold for about year or so on average.

 

[Bowtie]

OK. I like everything about this except that my clay form did not make for a perfect contour on the missing portion of the handle. Pressing the clay on pushed the clay into the repair area, so there is an indentation where the JB meets the nylon. Cosmetic only, I know. The fix is permanent, and FAR stronger than the original handle, and it is pretty decent looking. Now my idea for improvement.

First, I will sculpt the handle with clay to resemble the original contour exactly. A patternmaker's effort.

Then I will brush on some silicone caulk that has had the acetic acid washed out of it with water, then thinned back down with toluene (cures quickly, still brushable)

When this dries, I will make a plaster reinforcement around the silicone, using polyester quilt fabric as a substrate, like making a cast for a broken arm.

Finally, I will remove the mold, clean off every last bit of clay, then proceed as I did on this one.

Unfortunately, I do not have another broken handle to try this out on.

John, I think it looks fabulous! You have a good skill there, and saved a chunk of change on a new or used replacement tank.

 

[teacherman]

for twenty clams I would try the new method on somebody's Stihl handle, and post a pictorial thread. I found the process uses quite a bit of JB, actually. The twenty would cover materials.