2 stihl saws with the same exact problem

[gmcman]

With the 046...did you try to turn the idle screw down a little when it was racing? Could possibly have an air leak, the only thing that bothers me is that you didn't torque the head bolts to spec.

Sounds like the L needle and the idle screw is a tad out of whack, I would start there.

 

[timberwolf]

If it is slow to drop to idle richen up the LS, then if its too rich and hesitates on acceleration or stalls out on idle even with increasing the idle stop good chance it has an air leak as posted above. check the rubber boot for cracks, pulse line for leaks, tank vent then pressure test to see if crank seals are leaking.

 

[Bowtie]

I would definetly do a vac/pressure test. It can be frustrating chasing down an air leak if you dont have the right tools. One thing I have done to test crank seals when there IS a known air leak is to smear wheel bearing grease around the crank and seal on one side, then test vac. If it passes with the grease, there is your leak. Then try the other seal. If it still leaks, you have an air leak somewhere else.

 

[goatchin]

rubber boot was replaced when i went through it after i bought it. Didnt replace the impulse line but when i ordered my fuel line they sent the impulse too (mistake on their end) and never put it on because the impulse didnt have any dry cracks or bad spots i could find.

The saw runs fine the first, say 10-15 seconds (reving up and letting off) then after that is when it races so that to me is not in the carb adj because then it should be all the time???

for the tank vent-when the saw is set on it's side or tip up (bar nose up) fuel will leak out of the vent-not sure if normal, but probally is. the vent itself is clean and around the area.

I may just have to take it to the s.e shop and have them do the pressure and vaccum test.


Any other ideas?? should be gettin down to the nitty gritty by now haha, thaks for the help