357xp vs 455 rancher

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Good info. I'd only add loctite 518 as sealant option also. And check squish before sealing jug down. Dab of grease at piston edges parallel with wrist pin, piece of solder stuck on grease, bolt clean cylinder only down, cycle engine, remove and measure solder. It helps to use thin .032" solder, it mushes easy. Oh yeah lots of care pushing intake boot on, impulse nipple can get smashed easily, a dab of grease can help here too.
 
I see they call for an alignment tool in the service manual when reassembling the intake manifold and boot
****top plate Locating intake gaiter 502 54 17-01****
Is this a necessary tool required for proper gap or something?

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Deleting the gasket does of course change the port timing slightly - I have no idea how much it matters though....
Now when you say port timing, I assume this has do do with the timing of the spark and the proper position of the piston to the ports???


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Ok so what is the difference between the 357xp and my 2009 359 Etech I modded the muffler to a non cat and cut the inside tube out and also added a 2nd exhaust hole on the muffler, it has a Zama C3 EL42 carb with limiters cut off. I never did take the base gasket out yet. It is my go to saw now. Weight is the same as the 357xp what else is different? I find myself picking up this saw most times now over my 372xp. It really screams and is 1.3 lbs lighter than the 372xp.
 
Not really anything to do with the spark just the port timing, removing the base gasket you are lowering the cylinder and the port.

I believe it is minimal, but don't really know that as a fact.
Another observation is that more static compression in the combustion chamber isn't always an asset, if compression is good enough as it is. Mean pressure in the case/under the piston is much more important.
 
Ok so what is the difference between the 357xp and my 2009 359 Etech I modded the muffler to a non cat and cut the inside tube out and also added a 2nd exhaust hole on the muffler, it has a Zama C3 EL42 carb with limiters cut off. I never did take the base gasket out yet. It is my go to saw now. Weight is the same as the 357xp what else is different? I find myself picking up this saw most times now over my 372xp. It really screams and is 1.3 lbs lighter than the 372xp.
Crank stuffers, transfer port design, 1mm diameter and about $200 in the resale market.
 
I'm not sure what crank stuffers are, but I don't think you would do wrong to go with a 359 even a Etech with a good muffler mod, and if it has the good carb. I dug up this out of the archives. Sounds like a good tuned and muffler modded 359 has more torque than a 357xp. And $200 cheaper. I don't think there is any difference in the bottom ends, other than crank stuffers what ever that is. To be honest I don't even know if you can still buy a new 359?

by eph
"the 359 is every bit as fast as a 357xp, I have shown that lots of times. You do not port the saws the same cause there is a lot of differences in them, that 359 that won the last GTG only turns 13900 rpm's out of the wood but holds that rpm pretty steady in the wood only loosing a couple hundred . That 357xp that got 2nd was turning 14500 rpm's so no higher that stock rpm out of the wood, As far as the 359 holding up , well I have built enough of them now that if there was going to be a problem it would of shown up by now and the Husky dealer here has blown up a few stock 359/357 saws and the saws I have done for him have never had any problems period, so I am getting lots of work from them also, I feel it is far better to make a saw cut fast using torque over rpm's because it will last a lot longer because you are not beating the crap out of the crank and piston, the 346's only turn 14250 rpm's as well , the 088's were set at 12800 rpm so you can see none of them are screamers but they hold there rpm in the wood very high and do not lay down in the cut unless you have them set to lean, now on the smaller stihl's like the 260 yes they do turn a pretty high rpm, 15000, to 16000 rpm's cause they needs to , and the 361 turns 14500 rpm's and cut very fast, I have built quiet a few 357's but for every 357 I have built 3 or 4 359's and some are being run as firewood saws which I feel is the hardest thing on a saw besides milling"
 
Crank stuffers take up room in the crank case and raises the case compression. This increases the velocity of the transfer charge, raises the rpm range, faster throttle response and increases power at higher rpm. It is noticeable in the 357 compared to the 359.

A ported 359 is a fantastic saw, but I'd rather have a 357 if I had to chose between the two. I have a couple of both so all good here. :)
 
So for those of you who have deleted your gasket on reassembly, did you see an actual performance diferrance in the saw???
How thick is the origonal gasket material and after using gasket material in it place, is there really a big difference in thickness to get a "squish" factor and increase compression?

SawTroll said: more static compression isn't always a good thing? So you mean top compression vs case compression below the piston?

This thread is getting deap now!!! Lol


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