jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
I appreciate all your guys input, this forum is proving to be invaluable with the information and knowledge you gain from each other.
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357xp vs 455 rancher
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RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
Ride-red,
Are what you talking about right behind the blue wire, where it looks like theirs a white dash mark on it?
Zoom in on it.
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Yes Sir, that is precisely what I was referring to.
The top end is a breeze to remove and re-install. I would pull the topend as opposed to attempting to force the issue and possibly damaging something. A base gasket will only cost a few bucks.. if you choose not to delete it..
RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
I know Mr. Sawtroll stated that your 357 is likely not to have the Walbro 199 carb. I would verify which carb you have when you do the intake update and if by some chance it has the 199 I would advise getting the k24-hda carb rebuild kit and doing that as well. Seems as though with the 199s and the OEM gaskets and diaphragms it is a matter of when, not if the saw will start to run erratic.
Motoseal is one, but you must make sure it's air tight.
Might wanna run it w/ gasket to get the feel for stock performance and do a little research on deleting, muff modding... that way you can feel the difference for yourself.
Might wanna run it w/ gasket to get the feel for stock performance and do a little research on deleting, muff modding... that way you can feel the difference for yourself.
RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
To do a base gasket delete, reinstall the cylinder without the gasket (of course) but seal it not with run of the mill RTV, use a good sealant like Yamabond, or Threebond. Those sealants are used by OEM's in applications where no gasket is used from the factory.. One example would be Rotax 2-stroke snowmobile crank cases... No gasket used by the factory, they use a good sealant like Threebond.
RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
The main purpose of a base gasket delete is that it gets you a bump in compression. It does also change port timing slightly, but I do not think the minor port timing change is the main goal of a gasket delete.
Thanks for the tip MgoBlue. I didn't realize Permatex made a product similar to Threebond and the like. Good to know!
Thanks for the tip MgoBlue. I didn't realize Permatex made a product similar to Threebond and the like. Good to know!
Careful about pullin the base gasket on her though, she will come alive!
RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
sunfish
Fish Head
Not a bad idea, but not all walbro 199 carbs will go bad. I have a 04 or 05 357 with original 199 and it's still fine.
RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
I hear ya. I just figure for the 10 bucks a kit costs and already having the saw apart for the intake it would be good form to go ahead and swap it out if he has the 199 carb.
My saw was built in '05 and didn't start acting up till this year. She's all better now.
sunfish
Fish Head
The top XP sticker was only used for a couple years and much later than your saw. There was a guy selling them here, but I don't remember who.
And I think he was sold out last time I looked.
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ya but it's like putting the hood ornament on a car, some have to have it. Lol
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sunfish
Fish Head
The XP sticker adds horse power.
SawTroll
Information Collector
There have been threads here on how to fix the HDA-199 series carbs (-199/-198/-190/-191) . I don't know if the same applies to the -174/-175, that was on the earliest saws.
A fixed -199 is a better carb that the replacement Zama.
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
So i picked up the new partition wall/clamp kit. Is there a thread or a yt video on the procedure of doing this and deleting the gasket? I searched but couldnt find anything worthwhile. I can do the job, i just like to know i didnt miss anything and maybe pick up some pointers at the same time.
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RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
Without actually searching it here or on YT, I'm pretty confident they are out there..
Having said that, doing this job is easy if you have some basic tools (even the allen wrenches supplied with every new Husky I have bought) will get it done...
Brief summary,
1: remove air filter cover and air filter. You will probably also want to remove recoil starter
2: Disconnect 2 wires from kill switch
3: remove throttle linkage
4: disconnect fuel line and remove carb
5: remove muffler and muffler support bracket
6: remove 4 bolts that secure cylinder, remove cylinder (remove sparkplug)
7: once cylinder is off the base, remove and replace carb boot.
8: clean all old base gasket material from bottom of cylinder and crankcase
9: using a non-silicon type sealant like Threebond, Yamabond, etc, apply as directed on package.
10: Install cylinder and check squish. Cut a piece of solder long enough to insert into spark plug hole and reach to the edge of the combustion chamber keeping the solder aligned with wrist pin axis. While holding solder in place, slowly turn engine over by hand until piston squishes the solder and the crank rotates past this point and piston travels back down. Remove solder and measure the thickness of the squished end of the solder at the very end with a vernier caliper or micrometer. This will give you your "squish" measurement. This measurement determines how close the piston comes to the outer edge AKA "Squish band" of the combustion chamber. Some opinions may vary, but I was told there should be no less than .022". Mine came in at .023". It is a good idea to take a squish measurement on both sides of the piston on the wrist pin's axis.
If squish checks out, re-assemble in reverse order of disassembly.
***Torque cylinder bolts to 8-10Nm***
A quick Google search should yield you some service manual PDF's if you need more info... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...sg=AFQjCNECRkMLrq61W4FFzh14Mi9yEJTH9A&cad=rja
Having said that, doing this job is easy if you have some basic tools (even the allen wrenches supplied with every new Husky I have bought) will get it done...
Brief summary,
1: remove air filter cover and air filter. You will probably also want to remove recoil starter
2: Disconnect 2 wires from kill switch
3: remove throttle linkage
4: disconnect fuel line and remove carb
5: remove muffler and muffler support bracket
6: remove 4 bolts that secure cylinder, remove cylinder (remove sparkplug)
7: once cylinder is off the base, remove and replace carb boot.
8: clean all old base gasket material from bottom of cylinder and crankcase
9: using a non-silicon type sealant like Threebond, Yamabond, etc, apply as directed on package.
10: Install cylinder and check squish. Cut a piece of solder long enough to insert into spark plug hole and reach to the edge of the combustion chamber keeping the solder aligned with wrist pin axis. While holding solder in place, slowly turn engine over by hand until piston squishes the solder and the crank rotates past this point and piston travels back down. Remove solder and measure the thickness of the squished end of the solder at the very end with a vernier caliper or micrometer. This will give you your "squish" measurement. This measurement determines how close the piston comes to the outer edge AKA "Squish band" of the combustion chamber. Some opinions may vary, but I was told there should be no less than .022". Mine came in at .023". It is a good idea to take a squish measurement on both sides of the piston on the wrist pin's axis.
If squish checks out, re-assemble in reverse order of disassembly.
***Torque cylinder bolts to 8-10Nm***
A quick Google search should yield you some service manual PDF's if you need more info... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...sg=AFQjCNECRkMLrq61W4FFzh14Mi9yEJTH9A&cad=rja
