redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yea, it's much easier with the cylinder off but you can replace the clamp with it on. Just takes patience and smaller hands than mine.
357xp vs 455 rancher
- Thread starter jr27236
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jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thank you.
We'll there is definitely no air leak. This thing idles beautifully and the throttle response is instant, this thing wants to do a wheelie if it were a car!
Looks like a guy has the intake wall and clamp on the Bay for $15 with free shipping. Just want to make sure it comes with the clamp as he has pictured before I buy just the partition wall by itself.
I have to look at the carb closet tomorrow to see what make it is, but it is not showing a hint of ANY problems at all carb wise or clamp.
Oh wait it is showing one problem...........too shiny to get dirty.[emoji6]
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calebng15
Always lookin' for somthing to cut!
Oh wait it is showing one problem...........too shiny to get dirty.
Oh NO!..... It's going to his head!
Really though, nice saw!
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
I must admit, I am excited over this saw and adding it to my collection. But I'm going to have to cull the herd and sell a couple.
[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
Really though, nice saw!
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SawTroll
Information Collector
That certainly is a problem!
As long as the Walbro carb I assume it has isn't acting up, there is no reason to change it. The reason I asked, is that the earliest ones had the HDA-174 series carbs, while the somewhat later ones had the -199 series. It was about confirming the age of the saw.
Another possibility that struck my mind is that it (still) may have the lighter but weaker case that the early ones had - but I believe most were called back for a change to the reinforced one in 2003 or so. Putting the empty powerhead on a reliable scale likely will tell.
TreeTangler
ArboristSite Guru
Wow, that was literally a steal. If it's running well, leave the carb alone. As far as the clamp, if you don't buy an updated intake block, you can modify that one and use a 372xp clamp.
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
How do you possibly know all this info? Your like the yoda of Chainsaws lol. Now your gonna have me emptying this thing out and removing the chain and bar. When my wife sees me weighing this thing on the scale she's going to think I really lost it now, but I'll just tell her there my babies I guess. [emoji38]That certainly is a problem!
As long as the Walbro carb I assume it has isn't acting up, there is no reason to change it. The reason I asked, is that the earliest ones had the HDA-174 series carbs, while the somewhat later ones had the -199 series. It was about confirming the age of the saw.
Another possibility that struck my mind is that it (still) may have the lighter but weaker case that the early ones had - but I believe most were called back for a change to the reinforced one in 2003 or so. Putting the empty powerhead on a reliable scale likely will tell.
What's a good dad to do?
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SawTroll
Information Collector
True - hopefully no collectors see this thread, and turn the saw into a collectors item - it deserves to be run!
RIDE-RED 350r
No wing, no prayer
I just did the intake update on my 357 a few weeks ago.
I know there are some that have successfully addressed the issue by modifying the existing setup.
I decided to just replace the part per the service bulletin.
When I did the job, I did not see a way to do it without removing the top end. There is a pair of sort of backer towers that are part of the case the protrude up and cages (if you will) the intake boot to the cylinder. You will see what I mean when you start the job.
I know there are some that have successfully addressed the issue by modifying the existing setup.
I decided to just replace the part per the service bulletin.
When I did the job, I did not see a way to do it without removing the top end. There is a pair of sort of backer towers that are part of the case the protrude up and cages (if you will) the intake boot to the cylinder. You will see what I mean when you start the job.
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ride-red,
Are what you talking about right behind the blue wire, where it looks like theirs a white dash mark on it?
Zoom in on it.
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redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
No, it's the black round plastic ring with the two protruding dabs. Is next to the cylinder. You replace it with the new metal ring.
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sorry, what I was referring two is what he was saying about the two backer towers that prevent or create problems in doing the replacement without removing the top half.
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redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
You could just snip them off with a pair of nippers and see if it helps. I'd try that before removing the cylinder, though it's not very hard to do.
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
I would never do any snipping, looks like they're there to retain the boot. I'm having no symptoms and will probably order the kit for a rainy day.
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SawTroll
Information Collector
If the saw is ran as little as it looks like, it likely will take some time before the plastic clamp fails anyway, if at all (my much used 353 from 2003 still has the original plastic clamp, doing fine so far).
Replacing it hardly is important at this point, it can wait.
Replacing it hardly is important at this point, it can wait.
EvilRoySlade
Life's a garden, dig it
Very nice saw. Start searching threads on the intake 346/359/357 all similar, there are a ton of photos in all stages of disassemble. Mastermind build threads are very detailed too.
With the scarcity of the 357 I'm surprised more people aren't using 359s. Find one with scored cylinder cheap, add stuffers and OEM 357 cylinder, walla 357. And the 359 badges confuse people when they see it run.
With the scarcity of the 357 I'm surprised more people aren't using 359s. Find one with scored cylinder cheap, add stuffers and OEM 357 cylinder, walla 357. And the 359 badges confuse people when they see it run.
sunfish
Fish Head
No, the boot is fine. Just snip off the plastic clamp latch and put a metal clamp around it. Or get the updated clamp and partition, they come together.
