ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
Sawtroll, a Jonsered 490 and the 346xp have the same bar mount, correct? According to Oregon they do.
Sawtroll, a Jonsered 490 and the 346xp have the same bar mount, correct? According to Oregon they do.
They do!
I've never taken the time to learn bore-cutting. I've done it a time or two on bucking, just to get the general idea without doing it while falling and then having an accident. What's the scoop with notching the sides before backcutting? Is that what you're referring to?
It is not about notching, but about starting the backcut by cutting from one side of the tree (only a few inches deep, and without bore-cutting), and then continue from the rear (without taking the saw out of the tree). The down-side is a less than perfect hinge on the side where you started, so the stump will not look perfect.....
I probably shouldn't have posted about it in the first place - as I said it is not "by the book", and the fall direction will not always be perfect (but mostly it is).
Here's just about the biggest tree i've yet to fall on the place, and is honestly larger than I commonly fall. It was either struck by lightning or damaged by wind, but it broke in two right next to our bin propane tank. It took two swipes for both the notch and backcut with a 20" bar on the 385.
OK, I got it. Someplace I have seen people notch both sides of the hinge before the backcut. Maybe that's to help control the hinge, or maybe that's just because there bar is a bit too small.
You cut a small 45 degree to the direction of fall cut on either side of the notch to prevent side scarring (which is where a chunk of the sapwood gets ripped of where the hinge is and stays on the stump). Side scarring can damage the butt log of saleable timber and reduces some directional control.
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