ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
It arrived today, but sounds like they shipped the wrong one, or at least not what I was expecting. The dealer sent it back. Time to go shopping again! 
357XP: Where Does It Fit In Between The 346XP and 385XP?
- Thread starter ProMac1K
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Henry G.
ArboristSite Guru
Get the 357! :greenchainsaw:
ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
I'm leaning that way, but i'm wondering if it will be a screamer like the 346. I want something light enough for smaller trees, yet I don't want to be babying it in the cut on a 16-20" hardwood. Maybe the 365 is what I need.
SawTroll
Information Collector
Well, this is not my natural lingo, so I must be allowed some spelling mistakes.......
I believe that c vs. s is where I make most of my mistakes.
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ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
I'm looking for something that could be a do-all farmer saw and pull a 20" bar for 20" and under hardwood. Nimble enough to limb yet strong enough to fall something in the 18-20" range. I don't think i've cut anything over 20" ever, so I was hoping that would give me some flexibility. I don't want to give up any performance when i'm cutting 18" trees, yet I want it light and nimble enough to limb. And i'd rather not have to carry around the 19lb 385 unless I need something for 20" or bigger. I was thinking the 365 would be a good choice, but it's about the same weight as the 372 (which is about the same weight as a 385), so I don't think that would be enough difference to justify getting something. And it's probably not a nimble saw. My thoughts were that I would be putting strain on a 346 if I was to be cutting 16-20" hardwood with it, as I don't spend the majority of my day limbing. Well, only if I have a bunch of downed trees like I do now. That leaves the 357, which some put to be in no-mans land because it's in between a 346 and 372. Is the 357 strong enough to fall and buck 20" trees, yet light and nimble enough to limb standing and downed trees? Which of these three saws (346/357/365) would sound the best fitting for what I need to do? Are there any newer 362's in circulation anymore?
SawTroll
Information Collector
First of all, the 372xp and 365 does not weight nearly the same as the 385xp - but they still are too heavy and bulky to be really nimble.
The 357xp isn't that much lighter than the 365 in the real world, but it still is much nimbler, as it is more compact and has an outboard clutch. The further weight difference down to the 346xp is a lot larger than the specs tell you.
Also remember that a longer bar adds a lot of weight, and large saws take more fuel than small ones - it all adds up.
A 357xp (or MS361) with an 18" bar sounds about right to me, as you described your need, but a 346xp with a 16" also could do it nicely, if it needed to - but it would need a bit more time.
Just be aware that the 357xp soon is to be replaced by a new model, for better or worse....
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ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
First of all, the 372xp and 365 does not weight nearly the same as the 385xp - but they still are too heavy and bulky to be really nimble.
The 357xp isn't that much lighter than the 365 in the real world, but it still is much nimbler, as it is more compact and has an outboard clutch. The further weight difference down to the 346xp is a lot larger than the specs tell you.
Also remember that a longer bar adds a lot of weight, and large saws take more fuel than small ones - it all adds up.
A 357xp (or MS361) with an 18" bar sounds about right to me, as you described your need.
Just be aware that it soon is to be replaced by a new model, for better or worse....
Yeah, I shouldn't have said "weigh nearly the same". What I should have said is, i've heard that they feel about the same when running them.
Do you know how soon the 357 is going to be phased out? Is it better to wait for the new candidate, or is that going to be a troubleshooting fiasco like the the new one coming out now?
I should say that i'm really looking into an XPG model now, after this cold fall/winter. It just makes sense, so long as it's switchable. With the 365, I can't get that, unless I get the 2165.
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....Which of these three saws (346/357/365) would sound the best fitting for what I need to do? Are there any newer 362's in circulation anymore?[/QUOTE]
If you can get a great deal on a old/new stock or used 365 or 362XP, then go for that. Otherwise, I'd go for a 372. I don't do a lot of hardwood, but I think for 20" of that I'd want a 372. Out here, I keep a 20" bar on the 362XP (62.5cc) and a 28" on my 372XPW (75cc). I got a great deal on the 362XP, and am happy with it. It certainly has markedly more oomph than either the MS361 or 357XP (had a 357, still have the 361).
As you mentioned earlier, the weight difference itself between the 372XP (362/365 weigh the same) and the 357XP power heads is not big at all. The 372 is a fair bit lighter than a 385/390XP, however.
So, if I were in your shoes, my first choice for your next saw would be a 372, followed by a 365/362XP if nice and cheap enough.
If you can get a great deal on a old/new stock or used 365 or 362XP, then go for that. Otherwise, I'd go for a 372. I don't do a lot of hardwood, but I think for 20" of that I'd want a 372. Out here, I keep a 20" bar on the 362XP (62.5cc) and a 28" on my 372XPW (75cc). I got a great deal on the 362XP, and am happy with it. It certainly has markedly more oomph than either the MS361 or 357XP (had a 357, still have the 361).
As you mentioned earlier, the weight difference itself between the 372XP (362/365 weigh the same) and the 357XP power heads is not big at all. The 372 is a fair bit lighter than a 385/390XP, however.
So, if I were in your shoes, my first choice for your next saw would be a 372, followed by a 365/362XP if nice and cheap enough.
ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
Has any tried a 20" bar on a 346? Modded or stock?
SawTroll
Information Collector
A 20" bar will degrade the nimbleness (and the performance) of that saw - and you don't need it for occational 20" wood (unless you have very little experience with saws).
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ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
I know what you're saying, cut from both sides. With a 20" bar i've only had to do that a handful of times. That give's you the idea of the size i'm dealing with. I'm not a real scientific cutter though, so that procedure probably needs some fine-tuning from what I remember.
Turkeyslayer
Smells Great
357 is the PERFECT choice for what you describe!!! The 365 is a really good choice, but if you dont get into wood bigger than 20" there is no point, and you have a 385. I personally prefer the 357 with 18" bar 3/8 chain, but it will still pull a 20" no problem. And yes it is a screamer!!!!!
SawTroll
Information Collector
They hold the cards really tight this time, so it is hard to say - the only known fact is that it has been under development for quite some time, and it surely is a "strato" design.
Turkeyslayer
Smells Great
I have been running my saws alot in the last few weeks, and will say that my 2156 (357) is getting by far the most trigger time. Every tree I have felled and 75% of the bucking has been with the 2156, the 395 has done about 15% of the bucking and the 2165 (365) has filled in the rest.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I know what you're saying, cut from both sides. With a 20" bar i've only had to do that a handful of times. That give's you the idea of the size i'm dealing with. I'm not a real scientific cutter though, so that procedure probably needs some fine-tuning from what I remember.
Not "by the book", but if the exact falling direction is not important, you can just "overbuck" the backcut, if you want to avoid bore-cutting.
If you feel unsecure, I will not recommend a 16" bar on a 20" tree for falling though........
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ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
I've never taken the time to learn bore-cutting. I've done it a time or two on bucking, just to get the general idea without doing it while falling and then having an accident. What's the scoop with notching the sides before backcutting? Is that what you're referring to?
ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
Nice pictures TS! Thanks!
That wood looks on par with the large end of the scale of what I cut, so that should be about right for me. It must just be me that does this, but I split the majority of my wood into as thin as I can go since I got my splitter last week. I figure it helps for igniting it.
ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
Here's the 490, suppose to be my limbing and light duty saw though i've only got about a half hour run time on it trying to get quirks sorted out. I honestly don't have any solo pics of the 385, but I have plenty of the Macs.
Here's just about the biggest tree i've yet to fall on the place, and is honestly larger than I commonly fall. It was either struck by lightning or damaged by wind, but it broke in two right next to our bin propane tank. It took two swipes for both the notch and backcut with a 20" bar on the 385.
In all honestly, these tree's are more common in size than anything bigger. These are 12"-18", all ash.
Here's just about the biggest tree i've yet to fall on the place, and is honestly larger than I commonly fall. It was either struck by lightning or damaged by wind, but it broke in two right next to our bin propane tank. It took two swipes for both the notch and backcut with a 20" bar on the 385.
In all honestly, these tree's are more common in size than anything bigger. These are 12"-18", all ash.
SawTroll
Information Collector
.....
In all honestly, these tree's are more common in size than anything bigger. These are 12"-18", all ash.
A 346xp with a 16" would do nicely on those - but I would still have preferred to use my MS361 with an 18" to fell them, if the were "mine".
Anyway, it looks like you have the 50cc covered by the 490, even if it isn't as strong as the 346xp.....
ProMac1K
ArboristSite Guru
OK, another update. We are making progress in the background, just so you know! I'm not just an armchair sawyer! opcorn:
I found the gold mine!
The dealer called me and said his Husqvarna contact found a NIB NE 346xp non-E-Tech powerhead that got sent back to Husqvarna and hasn't been put back into inventory yet. He said he was going to hold it until I gave him the yes or no that I wanted it. I debated leaving that and getting an XPG model, but I decided to go with the non-E-Tech powerhead due to the opportunity that I had, and the fact I got a real reasonable price on it without bar and chain. I'm going to use my bar that came with the 490 for now, since I put an identical bar in a different size on it. Whew!
Let's hope this one arrives so my nerves can settle back down. For now, i've got to get this wood cut with the 490 before it gets blown in with snow. 15° F, 25 mph NE wind, and snowing up to 8" today. I stayed out last night till after 7:00, well past dark, to get all the wood split that I had cut up, and to get the junk wood picked up and equipment put away. I still have to cover the stacks with tarps yet, and put the snow plow on. Brace yourselves.......I can finally breathe again. :blush:
I'll keep you updated, of course!
opcorn:I found the gold mine!
The dealer called me and said his Husqvarna contact found a NIB NE 346xp non-E-Tech powerhead that got sent back to Husqvarna and hasn't been put back into inventory yet. He said he was going to hold it until I gave him the yes or no that I wanted it. I debated leaving that and getting an XPG model, but I decided to go with the non-E-Tech powerhead due to the opportunity that I had, and the fact I got a real reasonable price on it without bar and chain. I'm going to use my bar that came with the 490 for now, since I put an identical bar in a different size on it. Whew!
Let's hope this one arrives so my nerves can settle back down. For now, i've got to get this wood cut with the 490 before it gets blown in with snow. 15° F, 25 mph NE wind, and snowing up to 8" today. I stayed out last night till after 7:00, well past dark, to get all the wood split that I had cut up, and to get the junk wood picked up and equipment put away. I still have to cover the stacks with tarps yet, and put the snow plow on. Brace yourselves.......I can finally breathe again. :blush:I'll keep you updated, of course!
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