7 or 8 pin

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my 590 worked better with a 8 pin than a 7 pin
i actually prefer the 6 pin but i can't find them :dizzy::dizzy:
 
Since a lot of my saws a stuck with an 8 pin (spur drive clutch drums), I lower the rakers and just don't need to lean into it.. the bars stay nice and cool when you don't have to dog the powerhead in and reef on it to make it cut
I am a fan of self feeding chains, when bucking the spikes on my saws rarely see any use other then distancing the PH from the log!

I lower the rakers on my PS-7900's chain only to take advantage of the overkill power it has for the default 20" setup, it's a hoot to run in strong wood!

My PS-6400 will pull the aggressive PS-7900 chain too, but will loose in cut rpm's in large rounds.

I have a 8 tooth 3/8" sprocket, tried it on my PS-7900 - works perfectly fine on my 20" setup, even whilst buried in oak (the spikes "take" 2", that makes it 18" buried in oak).
I don't like the additional heat the chain generates whilst being driven by the 8 tooth, nor does the chain take a "good bite" at higher speeds - thus I default to a 7 tooth!

Each to its own, I like brunettes more then blondes - raven black & redheads make me drool... :baba:
 
I am a fan of self feeding chains, when bucking the spikes on my saws rarely see any use other then distancing the PH from the log!

I lower the rakers on my PS-7900's chain only to take advantage of the overkill power it has for the default 20" setup, it's a hoot to run in strong wood!

My PS-6400 will pull the aggressive PS-7900 chain too, but will loose in cut rpm's in large rounds.

I have a 8 tooth 3/8" sprocket, tried it on my PS-7900 - works perfectly fine on my 20" setup, even whilst buried in oak (the spikes "take" 2", that makes it 18" buried in oak).
I don't like the additional heat the chain generates whilst being driven by the 8 tooth, nor does the chain take a "good bite" at higher speeds - thus I default to a 7 tooth!

Each to its own, I like brunettes more then blondes - raven black & redheads make me drool... :baba:
In softwood (all we got around here unless you count cottonwood) I find I'm running my rakers at .030".. I don't like exerting myself more than I need to
 
In softwood (all we got around here unless you count cottonwood) I find I'm running my rakers at .030".. I don't like exerting myself more than I need to
When I bought my PS-7900, used, it had a half way worn chain on it with rakers as low as 1.4mm/~.055".
It cut very rough in thinner stuff (forget limbing!), but it was amazing in fresh oak, beech, hornbeam, pear & cherry logs!
Didn't notice any additional exhaustion, just held on to the saw and let the chain do its thing.

Wearing a 20" b&c setup and a new chain with "proper" rakers the PS-7900 is no more fun to use then my PS-6400 , nor is it "faster" while bucking - that is where the 8 tooth sprocket comes into play, mixing things up a bit. :)

Experiences, preferences and opinions will wary from user to user. ;)

P.S.: Rakers as low or lower then .030" on a worn chain (only triangles left :p) will cause the teeth to bend (one) and/or rip right off (two or three)!
I noodled dry pear on Monday with such a chain, I lost 3 or 4 teeth on that particular chain that day. :innocent:
When I take some pictures I will post them in Philbert's chain salvage thread.
 
I just had to salvage an old 84DL .375 chain.. I evidently didn't know what I was doing that many years ago when I retired it, there were only triangle left on the teeth and the rakers hadn't been touched... I needed to debark some VERY gravelly douglas fir before I went into it with my nice new chain on the 32" bar.. I think I took 10 strokes off the rakers... It still cuts crooked but it's good enough for what I needed it to do
 

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