7 vs 8 pin on 660 & 461 - 20" bar

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Out here in the Pnw 8 tooth 32 semi or full skip square in Doug fiir, cedar and other softwoods is the cats meow. hard woods differ. I use 7 tooth for 36 and 41 full skip
Even won the Pnw Gtg 032 race with square semi skip over round full comp. I don't think there is a best saw chain combo for every body because technique guys heavy or light handed, dawgers and none dawgers. Each person needs to test what works for them.
 
I think the 7T vs 8t is a subjective test. Who's filing the chain, raker height, saw mods, size of wood and who's doing the cutting.
Myself and a couple other guys got very humbled on our chains when off the roll spanked them in a log we were not used too in a "Friendly chain build" we recently had ,but in the cedar and fir i normally cut at home ,my angles eat it up better than off the roll does ,like you said there is a lot of variables in this stuff
 
Myself and a couple other guys got very humbled on our chains when off the roll spanked them in a log we were not used too in a "Friendly chain build" we recently had ,but in the cedar and fir i normally cut at home ,my angles eat it up better than off the roll does ,like you said there is a lot of variables in this stuff
Hardwoods are a bit different than softwoods. I was very surprised my chain was that high up. It was just a quick file job and nothing else.
 
The manufacturers do a LOT of testing to give you the best performing setup and they usually get it right thus to maximise the chain speed within the saw engines powerband. Running larger sprockets gives faster chain speed so for it to cut faster it needs either one of two things...more hp or less load. So unless you can get the increased power required you must decrease load. So maybe some testing would be interesting with chains of reduced kerf maybe with reduced kerf bar too. l have a 9 pin .325 sprocket for my ported 660 which l would love to run some narrow kerf setups to see what happens.
 
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